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View Full Version : Which whetstone for initial nib shaping?



fncll
July 10th, 2013, 10:20 AM
I have a 1500-12000 micro mesh set but am thinking I need something with a bit of bite and sturdiness for initial shaping when nib grinding. I've read here that many use a Japanese whetstone. I was looking at something like this 3000/10000 stone:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3000-10000-Knife-Razor-Sharpener-Stone-Whetstone-Polishin-Oilstone-Grit-/281032278370?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416ed44162

What grit do you use for initial shaping? The 10,000 seems a bit light. I see a lot of 1000/3000 as well, but the 1000 might be a bit too much?

AndyT
July 10th, 2013, 12:26 PM
For initial shaping I'd be inclined to favour a hard stone, either a ceramic or a novaculite (hard white Arkansas for instance) over a Japanese stone. The reason being that the Japanese stones work by continually exposing new cutting surfaces forming a slurry - that means that you'd quickly wear a hollow in the surface, and the slurry would get everywhere, including into the feed. Furthermore, they need to be soaked, so it's not just a matter of using the ink in the pen as a lubricant.

The same goes for polishing ... my stone of preference for that is a scrap of Thuringian razor hone (which is actually quite soft and capable of raising a light slurry, but nowhere near as friable as a Japanese stone).

3000 does sound like a good sort of figure to start at, and a sensible progression from there would be 6k then 10 or 12k. 1k is downright aggressive. Frankly, Micromesh and Mylar are good, practical options for pens; what makes the waterstones so effective for sharpening makes them less suitable for nib shaping and finishing.

fncll
July 10th, 2013, 12:37 PM
Frankly, Micromesh and Mylar are good, practical options for pens; what makes the waterstones so effective for sharpening makes them less suitable for nib shaping and finishing.

So you'd just go with the micromesh for the initial shaping for going from a broad to a fine, for instance?

AndyT
July 10th, 2013, 06:14 PM
Well, you'll get better definition by using a hard surface to establish the shape you want in the first place, but if it's a simple rounded tip with a largish sweet spot you're after the give in the Micromesh will work in your favour. However, if you want to introduce a stubbish sort of profile, that Arkansas stone might make life a bit easier.

My guess is that most people who do their own nib alterations use Micromesh; I just happen to have a lot of whetstones and razor hones to hand.

drgoretex
July 10th, 2013, 06:36 PM
Ya, I'd second the hard surface as an optimum way to get initial definition, If you are taking off a fair bit of bulk. I don't happen to have that, so I do the next best thing, and use my abrasive paper on the edge of a piece of plexiglass (any hard surface with an edge will do). If taking off a bit of bulk (eg stubbing a broad), then I start with a rough-out using 600 or 1000 wet/dry paper (but pen filled so lubed with (cheap) ink). Once I am close, I switch to 4000 briefly, then 8000, then the rest is all 12000 micro mesh, slowly and carefully, checking shape often with the loupe. This has worked very well for me.

Ken

Woodnut
November 24th, 2013, 10:00 PM
I've ground a fair number of my own nibs to stub and italic -- though I don't claim to be a nibmeister -- and an Arkansas stone can seriously reduce the amount of time you'll spend getting the nib to the basic shape you want. I follow Ludwig Tan's advice (do a Google search for his name to find his essay, with illustrations) and use the Arkansas stone to grind down the iridium ball (top and bottom) until the tip of the nib looks fairly squared off. But, as anyone who has ground a nib will tell you: Don't go to town on it! What you grind away can't be replaced! From then on, it's micromesh for perfecting the shape.