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View Full Version : Polishing Scratches Out of a Sheaffer Imperial IV



klpeabody
February 23rd, 2014, 08:44 AM
I am wondering if someone might kindly help me determine if scratches can be polished out of the plastic on a Sheaffer Imperial IV (touchdown filler). If so, what product might be best to use? Sadly, I am lacking in the knowledge department when it comes to this type of thing. I am also curious if particular products might be better than others on certain types of pens.

Any help provided would be much appreciated. Thank you.

lsmith42
February 23rd, 2014, 09:30 AM
Ping the Farmboy on this one... I've seen him do polishing miracles... literally...

klpeabody
February 23rd, 2014, 09:34 AM
Ping the Farmboy on this one... I've seen him do polishing miracles... literally...

I will! Thanks for the help, Loren!

00Photo
February 23rd, 2014, 09:37 AM
I've had good luck with micromesh:

http://blog.andersonpens.net/zen-and-the-art-of-pen-polishing-micro-mesh/

http://www.andersonpens.net/micro-mesh-s/1994.htm

klpeabody
February 23rd, 2014, 10:19 AM
I've had good luck with micromesh:

http://blog.andersonpens.net/zen-and-the-art-of-pen-polishing-micro-mesh/

http://www.andersonpens.net/micro-mesh-s/1994.htm

Thank you! Reading the blog article now.

Jeph
February 23rd, 2014, 10:19 AM
The possibility is pretty high but the appropriate products are a function of the scratches. Depth, direction, number, location, etc. after the base material of course. Good high quality pictures should get you a better answer. Many things can work, but some are very (or at least more) skill dependant.

Jon Szanto
February 23rd, 2014, 02:43 PM
I'd feel better if I saw pictures to assess just how scratched the surface it. I've never felt comfortable with something like micromesh, but I've had very good results with the 3-part Novus plastics polishes (http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-Plastic-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000J41VDM). The nice part is you can start with the intermediate polish, and if the scratches are deeper and don't polish out, you can step up to #3, which is a bit more abrasive. With even minimal reasonable use, you won't reduce a good imprint on the barrel, and I've seen some pretty grody pens come to life. I know that Teri at Peyton Street Pens mentioned to me that they go through gallons of #2. I'm sure it was hyperbole, but it is a fairly benign product that does well for pens.

Another polish that many restorers use is Simichrome, which works for the hardware as well. Any time you use paste or polish, though, try not to gob it on, as one of the worst things to see on a restored pen is bits of polish stuck in nooks and crannies.

Anyway, those are my thoughts.

klpeabody
February 23rd, 2014, 09:08 PM
Thank you to Jeph and Jon Szanto. I am unable to post pics tonight as I've had marathon weekend of chores and such, and it's late here on the East Coast (aka past my bedtime). The "marathon" analogy is a slight exaggeration, but I'm sure you understand. =)

The scratches are not deep. When the pen came to me, it had a couple of bite marks that weren't too bad and some micro scratches. Great condition if you ask me, especially since I purchased it from the Bay at a super good price because it had bad pics and a nib that had a ton of dried ink in there. After some basic cleaning, it was good to go. I tossed the pen in my purse recently, and it got banged around a bit. When I realized what had happened, I was just ashamed of myself, to be honest. I hardly ever carry pen cases, and I typically do not carry this pen in a pen case. Obviously, it brushed up against something, i don't know what, but there are a couple of areas where the finish has "dulled" considerably, if you will. It's noticeable, and it looks almost like someone tried to buff those areas with a nail file (gasp), although that's not what it was because I don't carry nail files in my purse. (If that makes any sense at all.) Wish I could post some pics tonight, but it's just not in the cards for me today.

I had heard about the Novus polishes but wanted to be sure that they were a good thing. Lack of knowledge can be dangerous, and I was hoping to try a polish, but didn't want to get too crazy because I think what I'm dealing with might be able to buff out. Don't think I'll need anything as strong as Simichrome, but I'm curious: if I choose to go with the Novus polish, is it safe to start with a chamois cloth or even an old towel with perhaps a dime-sized drop? Just wondering how much is adequate, as I don't want to apply too much. (thanks for the nooks and crannies warning, Jon).

Thanks again to everybody for taking the time to respond. If I had the time today, I would have posted some pics to start, but, despite that fact, all of the responses have been so very helpful.

Thanks so much.

kp

Jon Szanto
February 23rd, 2014, 11:46 PM
I had heard about the Novus polishes but wanted to be sure that they were a good thing. Lack of knowledge can be dangerous, and I was hoping to try a polish, but didn't want to get too crazy because I think what I'm dealing with might be able to buff out. Don't think I'll need anything as strong as Simichrome, but I'm curious: if I choose to go with the Novus polish, is it safe to start with a chamois cloth or even an old towel with perhaps a dime-sized drop? Just wondering how much is adequate, as I don't want to apply too much. (thanks for the nooks and crannies warning, Jon).

TBH, I think it will be self-explanatory. I use old t-shirts (basically soft cotten) for both application and basic polishing. I have small squares folded up and mark them I, II, III so I don't mix the polishes for application, and when they are dirty and gunked up, I cut new ones. Then other pieces to remove the basic polish product, and then quite clean ones for the final buffing. All done by hand, using as little of the product as possible (you'll see, just a couple of drops - #2 and #3 are more like a liquid paste; #1 is like a clear liquid)

Before you try your actual pen, pick up some old junker pen or plastic pencil laying around the house, or find a couple at a thrift store. Practice doing this on one area of the pen so you can compare it to the unpolished area. I think without much effort you'll find your way to doing this, and unless you are drunk I don't think you can get much damage done like if you were using a motorized buffing wheel or something.

Drop me a PM if you have any other questions, but this is spraying Bactine and putting on a bandaid, not brain surgery! :)

Jeph
February 24th, 2014, 12:21 AM
I agree with what Jon said. That and maybe a sunshine polishing cloth should be all that you need. The bite marks will probably remian but degenerate into something less noticeable and acceptable. I have gotten so lazy now that I usually do what I can with the sunshine cloth and then call that good enough. The Novus is good stuff though. It is easy to use and should give you no problems.

pengeezer
March 11th, 2014, 06:49 AM
One of the things I use for polishing up pens is old cotton socks(after they're washed,of course).
As long as the cotton is still soft and not scratchy,they work rather well.


John

klpeabody
March 11th, 2014, 03:56 PM
One of the things I use for polishing up pens is old cotton socks(after they're washed,of course).
As long as the cotton is still soft and not scratchy,they work rather well.


John

Thank you!