Custom Bag

[MY63]

Thanks Hawk
I have considered adding all sorts of additions to these cases but as I plan on selling the case then I might add something that would put off potential buyers.
However if someone wanted to buy the case I could add any extra items they wanted as long as the case was not finished.

[MY63]

After much agonising and tea drinking I decided that as the gusset side piece has been torn along the stitching holes. The best course of action would be to make a new piece.

Once the decision had been made I cut a suitable piece of leather .

DSC_0115[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Getting the bend and the shape right can be difficult so here is my solution

DSC_0116[1] by my0771, on Flickr

The new side is inside the existing side while wet so it will take the shape.

DSC_0177[1] by my0771, on Flickr

After gluing I started to add some colour The gusset piece has a more red tint than the rest of the case but as I cut it out and I only do one at a time it is the right one.

DSC_0186[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Matching the colour is not easy at all but I think it came out ok

DSC_0191[1] by my0771, on Flickr

DSC_0192[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I mixed some of the colour with some polish and polished the rest of the gusset at the same time to help to blend everything in.

[MY63]

As you may know I share good and bad I am not too happy with the way the gusset piece has turned out.
The colour is not quite right but I think I could live with that.

I don't like the joint in fact I really don't like the joint I have decided to fit a strap and as it will attach to the gusset then the gusset needs to be as strong as possible.

I have purchased a suitable hide from which I can make a replacement gusset this is quite an expensive option as leather is only available by the hide so many £££s have been spent. I have also ordered some smaller buckles and "D" rings to make the shoulder strap.

Replacing the gusset will also allow me to add a little space to the centre compartment to allow the zip to fit better.

[SIR]

Not such a bad colour... looks quite Victorian.

You could complement it with something like this as a lining/trim

[amk]

Thanks to Michael for all the encouragement. I've now managed to repair two bags that were completely falling apart. Here's a rather nice handbag that took about a week to stitch together. Total cost: one euro for the bag and about one pound fifty for the linen thread. The bits of fluffy decayed thread I took out of it were white, but I decided to stitch it in black as that seemed to fit the patina better.

I found the first couple of days' work were the worst. I kept breaking the thread, stabbing myself with the awl, and generally not enjoying it much. Things got much much easier and towards the end I'd actually got into quite a nice rhythm with the stitching.


I really never would have thought of doing this without the 'custom bag' thread, and I'm so glad I did!

The other bag I repaired is a great big square travelling bag, I think from South America, which had a whole side hanging off by two rivets. I've restitched the side, and it now holds all my fountain pen boxes and with a good bit of hide food rubbed in and polished it looks pretty smart. That one cost me a whopping seven euros :-)

[MY63]

Thanks Sir I think I went a little too red in the colour it would have been very easy to continue the dye all over the case and say nothing but my idea with these cases is do replace as little as possible. That red material looks like embossed velvet it might be difficult to find sufficient quantities. To line the inside of this case took 18 square feet of suede.

Nice work Amk although I am a little worried about you breading your thread hand sewing thread for leather needs to be very strong and is eye wateringly expensive.
Most leather workers get quite obsessive about thread and stitching your first effort looks good to me.

[amk]

Re the thread breaking, I think what I was doing was managing to stitch through the thread with the second needle. It's good strong linen thread but of course if you divide it into little bits it breaks.

Thanks for the kind words Michael!

[MY63]

One of the problems with leather working is the purchase of the leather in order to make a gusset piece I have to buy a whole hide leather is priced by the square foot but sold by the hide.

DSC_0272[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I have cut the replacement piece the next step will be to start the dying process.

I have also purchased some smaller trigger hooks and "D" rings to fit in the centre section of this case.

DSC_0268[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Another of my purchases is this case from a local seller it was made for the chemical company I C I

DSC_0262[1] by my0771, on Flickr

DSC_0265[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Thanks for looking

Michael

[MY63]

This case needs a strap
The starting point is a cut strap 25 mm which I bought from my local supplier.

DSC_0276[1] by my0771, on Flickr

The first step is to use an edge tool to remove all of the corners

DSC_0278[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I had cut two pieces from the full length strap to form the fasteners

DSC_0290[1] by my0771, on Flickr

All of the pieces assembled ready for dye

DSC_0292[1] by my0771, on Flickr

First coats of light tan dye applied the leather was still wet it would dry a much lighter colour.

DSC_0293[1] by my0771, on Flickr

In this picture I have started to apply antique stain over the top of the light tan

DSC_0298[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Thanks for looking

Michael

[MY63]

It has taken some time to work out how to attach the new gusset to the existing dividers I have just written it up fully for my blog but will give an abridged version here.

The main problem is matching the existing holes on the dividers to the new gusset which has no holes. Oh and the gusset piece wraps around the divider so you cant see the holes.

Here is my solution I transferred the top hole from the divider to the gusset piece, and then used two pairs of dividers one with a point covered in tape to mark the distance from the edge and the second to mark the distance between the holes

DSC_0432[1] by my0771, on Flickr

DSC_0438[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I will be adding the lining separately to the outer gusset panels and I will make a padded liner for the pocket.

Thanks for looking

Michael

[MY63]

Here is the trial fit of the front piece to the new gusset there is some excess leather to be trimmed off which I am beginning to wish I had never added in the first place.

DSC_0465[1] by my0771, on Flickr

DSC_0463[1] by my0771, on Flickr

There were many trial fits I did not take pictures of them all as we would have been here for months.

The front is now sewn in place and I am happy with it

DSC_0477[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Here are the finished strap end pieces ready to be fitted to the strap

DSC_0443[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I attached the mounting points while still wet to the gusset piece and now that they have dried the colour is not what I was expecting they are very dark.

DSC_0468[1] by my0771, on Flickr

They have been glued and stitched in place so I am not sure if I can change them now.

Thanks for looking

Michael

[davegt]

Wow, Michael,

That is starting to look really nice!!

[MY63]

Thanks Dave I have to be honest this case has been a challenge I have wished I had used this for parts more than once replacing the gusset and adding a zipped pocket on the same case was a mistake.

Time to start fitting the rear panel I decided to cut the rear panel before gluing it in place it took me a couple of attempts before I was happy

DSC_0486[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I also removed the strap mounts and made replacements as the first pair were too dark

DSC_0489[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I am using a linen thread on this case it is a 4 cord thread which I have hand waxed with pure beeswax for saddle stitch there is a needle on each end of the thread. Regular readers will know I prefer to use a single piece of thread where possible in this case it is around 24 feet long.

DSC_0491[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Thanks for looking

Michael

[MY63]

I have almost finished stitching the rear panel in place in my rests I started to look at the brass hasp that closes the case it requires three brass rivets to secure it in place. I had ordered some replacements unfortunately the rivets were not large enough for this case so I decided to make my own.

This picture shows the new rivets one fitted which had bent in the hole and one unused there is also the brass rod which I used to create the handmade rivets.

DSC_0494[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Here are the rivets almost finished

DSC_0496[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Three rivets securing the hasp in place as good if not better than new

DSC_0505[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Thanks for looking

Michael (my63leather)

[MY63]

Everything is back together now and I have trial fitted the strap

DSC_0512[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I just need to finish off the edges and find a buyer now

DSC_0513[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Here is a sneak peak at my latest purchase

DSC_0515[1] by my0771, on Flickr

Yes its another case or "oh no not another case" depending on your point of view

[amk]

Always amazing to see how these ugly ducklings are transformed in your expert hands! What an inspiration.

I've been spending the day in my workshop repairing a picture frame that I found in four pieces for 50 cents (really nice veneer with a carved interior section), and a three euro mirror frame that had been painted with horrible, horrible orange and turquoise gloss paint. Now I've stripped the paint off I can see the detail of the plaster work, and crikey! it's gorgeous! Lovely acanthus leaf work. Going to buy some red bole and gold leaf to finish them off, instead of using metallic paint, because I reckon these two deserve it.

[MY63]

Thanks AMK gold leaf is something I have been looking at for sometime now along with bookbinding

I don't dislike finishing edges they just take a lot of time and although I am not a perfectionist honest I am not (well maybe a little).

I started by sanding the edges where all of the pieces are sewn together. There was a lot of sanding to do.
After the sanding I finished the edges with leather edge kote which is available in many colours including brown which is what used here.

Unfortunately I did not like the end result it looked too new if that makes sense. Which meant even more sanding to remove the edge kote that I had applied. On a positive note the edges were slightly darker after the edge kote was sanded and I have achieved a satisfactory result by sealing them with beeswax

DSC_0528[1] by my0771, on Flickr

After a few more hours the edges will be finished and it will be time to post it on the classifieds.

Thanks for looking

Michael

[MY63]

Here are the final pictures of the finished case

DSC_0541[1] by my0771, on Flickr

DSC_0537[1] by my0771, on Flickr

DSC_0535[1] by my0771, on Flickr

I spent longer on the edges than I had planned they are never going to be perfect as the case is already 50 years or older as it has been stripped cleaned and lined in cognac suede. After being hand sewn back together with Barbour brown linen thread and is now ready for another 50 years.

Thanks for looking

Michael

[mandrbeck]

Gorgeous work MY63! Very impressive!

[MY63]

If anyone was wondering why the briefcase above has not appeared in the classifieds section no I have not sold it I forgot to make a liner for the bottom of the pocket so once I have done that I will advertise it.