Polishing your pen

[mustud52]

I have read a number of threads over time and become comfortable using micro pads and various creams and pastes to repair light scratches and polish my pens. That has pretty much kept me satisfied. Generally I like to muck around with polishes as little as possible as I figure I am more likely to do harm than good.

Well, that is so far. The other week I bought a Pelikan 100N even though I knew the cap looked rather ordinary - however it had a nice looking nib I was keen to try, an OBB. Nib is fine, but now the rather dull finish of the pen is stirring an interest to DO SOMETHING. I have started. Micropads (I am a chicken, I always use 6000 and above), goos and pastes and a fair bit of time. The cap looks much smother and even feels not too bad after some carnauba wax. But factory style finish? Nup. Let's call it a dullish mustud finish.

So, has anyone out there had real experience restoring that high gloss finish? Do I really need to get a rotary buff and special pastes? If so, what is the method and what equipment do I need? I really am keen to learn how to do this.

And no, I will not start with the 100N. More likely will gain experience by polishing the tv remote or Mrs Mustud's hair dryer.

Any help will be much appreciated.

[Jon Szanto]

This is what I use (click photo for link to Amazon with description):

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91LeHKmAFZL._SL1500_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Scratch-Remover-bottles/dp/B000J41VDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424189576&sr=8-1&keywords=Novus+3+part+plastic+polish)

[mhosea]

I'm going to give the Novus stuff a try. However, in answer to the question of what I am actually using, it is a series of 3M Tri-Mite Wet or Dry sheets. In my case, 1200 (9 micron), 4000 (3 micron), 6000 (2 micron), 8000 (1 micron). I have so far been using them dry. The effects appear to be conservative in nature--a shine is restored by removing the finer microscratches, but not enough material is removed to affect deeper scratches, or at least this does not happen with my brief use.

[Jon Szanto]

Mike, nothing I've done with the Novus is for deep scratches, either. I just use this to bring a moderately ok pen to a little more lustre - I'm pretty conservative in my restorations.

[mhosea]

I wouldn't have expected otherwise. I have thought about getting a buffer and buffing compound, but I decided against it because I surmised that it was too easy to overdo it. There's a guy selling very shiny vintage pens on eBay who effectively "talked me out of it" with his pen photos. A careful look at the contours at key points shows very clearly what you shouldn't do.

[kirchh]

I'm not a fan of the Novus products because they leave behinds silicone and carnauba wax, both of which can be difficult to remove. I also do not like the feel of the surface, and I have concerns about wax releasing acids over time.

--Daniel

[Flounder]

Daniel - is this all the Novus 123 products? I had deep scratches on lucite that 3 removed and 2 improved the finish of. The '1' (labelled antistatic and dust repellant - which it was) left an odd looking final finish which I didn't prefer to Greygate's plastic polish.

Do you think the silicone & wax would account for the additional claims on the no.1? I found the 3 to be especially effective removing an ugly scratch, so hope the silicones are left out.

mustud52, I find the Greygate stuff very good for a high gloss finish on non-celluloid pens. They make a specific polish for cellulose acetate, which I haven't any experience of.

[Flounder]

forgot to mention - you can get very inexpensive sample sachets of novus 123 on eBay, if you want to try it without cluttering up the place with bottles.

[Jeph]

What is most important is that if you have a Pelikan 100, the cap is almost certainly hard rubber. Restoration of hard rubber is somewhat more complicated that just polishing out some scratches. You can remove all of the discoloration down to fresh hard rubber but that will not last without coating and perpetual care.

I have, and sometimes still do, used the Novus products to lightly polish pens. I have played around with using them for deep scratches and even engravings with some success but still not to the point that I would do that to a "real" pen. Still, my #1 polishing tool is just a simple jewelry polishing cloth. But that will not do much of anything for discolored hard rubber.

The hard rubber discussion gets into things that I am not prepared to take responsibility for establishing a position on. I suggest a search on restoring hard rubber.

[kirchh]

Daniel - is this all the Novus 123 products? I had deep scratches on lucite that 3 removed and 2 improved the finish of. The '1' (labelled antistatic and dust repellant - which it was) left an odd looking final finish which I didn't prefer to Greygate's plastic polish.

Do you think the silicone & wax would account for the additional claims on the no.1? I found the 3 to be especially effective removing an ugly scratch, so hope the silicones are left out.

Novus 1 has silicone, and Novus 2 has silicone and carnauba wax. I don't think Novus 3 has any such gloss enhancers or purported protectants as it is not intended to be used as a final finishing product.

I take a conservative approach to restoration, and I don't like intentionally leaving anything behind attached to a pen's surfaces that was not originally there unless there is a strongly compelling reason for doing so, and making a pen super-shiny doesn't qualify for me.

--Daniel

[Wile E Coyote]

Unless you are planning on painting the pen, what is wrong with silicone?

[kirchh]

Unless you are planning on painting the pen, what is wrong with silicone?

What effect does it have on the surface of hard rubber or celluloid pens over long periods of time? How does it feel? How do you remove it if you don't like the feel, appearance, or effect on the pen, or if you want to apply something else to the surface?

I don't know what the long-term effects might be; I don't like the way it feels; I don't know how to remove it completely with no negative side-effects. So, for me, those are three things "wrong with silicone."

ETA: I also don't like the appearance. So, for me, there is nothing right with silicone.

--Daniel

[Jon Szanto]

Daniel, let me just ask, then: after disabusing us from the use of the Novus and similar products, what *would* you suggest in terms of products and/or techniques for light exterior pen restoration?

[Flounder]

Probably something inert like microgloss. Though even if I could get it at a sensible price in the UK, I would feel a trifle uneasy about microscopic bits of glass getting under my skin during application, into the bloodstream, to do who knows what etc.

[kirchh]

Daniel, let me just ask, then: after disabusing us from the use of the Novus and similar products, what *would* you suggest in terms of products and/or techniques for light exterior pen restoration?

I avoid liquids and creams because the residue finds its way everywhere; if I do feel I have to resort to such a product I use Micro-gloss, which, as far as I can determine, is not formulated to leave anything behind (though some powdery residue may need to be removed from crevices, threads, and seams). For a light polish with little residue I may use a Sunshine cloth; its action can be modulated by the careful application of tiny amounts of moisture, lending a useful degree of control. I don't use a powered buffer, and I don't mask anything, as I do all the work by hand and I've become practiced at avoiding degradation of chasing and imprints, and I find that masking often imparts a telltale shadow effect to the surface finish.

Other than that, a careful wipedown with a cotton cloth is generally the first treatment I'll apply to a pen's exterior. A final wipe with a Selvyt cloth (the most expensive one) brightens things up.

--Daniel

[kirchh]

Probably something inert like microgloss. Though even if I could get it at a sensible price in the UK, I would feel a trifle uneasy about microscopic bits of glass getting under my skin during application, into the bloodstream, to do who knows what etc.

Why do you believe that Micro-gloss contains glass?

--Daniel

[Flounder]

I thought the 'abrasive crystals' in microgloss are glass. Do I have that wrong? Is there a spec sheet somewhere?

[mmahany]

"Polishing" and "Sanding" are nearly syonymous terms.

The idea behind polishing is to correct deep scratches by creating new (but less severe) scratches. It's generally not for the faint of heart.

I generally start with a medium abrasive polish. In this case, it's better to take off too little than too much.
I gradually use more abrasive polishes until the deepest scratches are no longer visible.
In extreme cases, wet sanding is needed, but certainly avoid it if at all possible.

Note: at this point, the pen will look very dull and disappointing. That's to be expected.

After the deepest scratches are corrected, gradually work up to finer polishes until the pen begins to show some promise. It's a very tedious process and 90% of time is spent polishing out the smallest scratches to achieve a surface that begins to shine

Notes:
1.) Most polishes are activated by heat. Too little heat and you're wasting your time. Too much heat and you'll literally burn the surface you're working on. After a while, you'll be able to see the point when a polish actually breaks down and begins to work.

2.) Most polishes you find in general crafts stores or automotive parts stores are nothing more than filler polishes. They're very user friendly and hard to use....because they don't actually correct scratches. They just mask them. Abrasive polishes should be used with care and have the potential to cause further damage than before you started (when used improperly)

3.) Good lighting is extremely important when polishing. It's very helpful to have a direct light shining on the surface you're working with. The idea is to capture the scratches on the surface to ensure none are neglected

4.) Proper tools and accessories are just as important. While polishes can be done by hand, it takes exponentially longer than using power tools. Again, the idea it to build up heat (but not too much heat) in order for the polish to break down.

5.) Make sure you're using polishes that are intended for the media/material you're working on. Rubber/Celluloid is a media I don't have much experience with. I'm inclined to say that a polish meant for plastics would not be a good choice for celluloid.

Of note: The bulk of my knowledge is from working on cars and specifically paint correction and aluminum polishing. The process is very similar when working on pens with the obvious difference being a much smaller surface area to work on.

[kirchh]

I thought the 'abrasive crystals' in microgloss are glass. Do I have that wrong? Is there a spec sheet somewhere?

No, the crystals are aluminum oxide, which is by far the most common abrasive. Glass isn't crystalline, it's amorphous.

--Daniel

[Flounder]

That's reassuring. Is there a similar sounding product with glass in it or something?

[kirchh]

"Polishing" and "Sanding" are nearly sy[n]onymous terms.

Not true. Polishing refers to any process that produces a smooth or glossy surface; such processes can include flame-polishing, solvent polishing, vapor polishing, burnishing, and waxing, for example. None of those processes is a form of sanding. Sanding refers to moving an abrasive affixed to, or embedded in, a substrate across a surface, and depending on the grit of the abrasive, it may or not have a polishing effect.



The idea behind polishing is to correct deep scratches by creating new (but less severe) scratches.

That description applies to abrasive polishing approaches, but not to the other methods.



1.) Most polishes are activated by heat. Too little heat and you're wasting your time. Too much heat and you'll literally burn the surface you're working on. After a while, you'll be able to see the point when a polish actually breaks down and begins to work.

Untrue. For abrasive-based polishes, the grains of abrasive will have the desired material removal action regardless of the generation of, or lack of, heat. I'd be interested to learn where you acquired this belief. Some products designed for application using a powered buffer are in semi-solid form (stick with embedded abrasive particles) that may soften due to the heat of the wheel when applied to the buffer, but such an abrasive polish does not become "activated" by heat when buffing of a plastic pen is occurring.



2.) Most polishes you find in general crafts stores or automotive parts stores are nothing more than filler polishes. They're very user friendly and hard to use....because they don't actually correct scratches. They just mask them.

This would seem to contradict your earlier claim that "Polishing" and "Sanding" are nearly sy[n]onymous terms."


While polishes can be done by hand, it takes exponentially longer than using power tools.

Perhaps, but it's not a very large exponent. I suggest experimenting to find a process that is comfortable and gives the desired results. I prefer hand-polishing.


Make sure you're using polishes that are intended for the media/material you're working on. Rubber/Celluloid is a media I don't have much experience with. I'm inclined to say that a polish meant for plastics would not be a good choice for celluloid.

Why? Celluloid is a plastic.


Of note: The bulk of my knowledge is from working on cars and specifically paint correction and aluminum polishing. The process is very similar when working on pens with the obvious difference being a much smaller surface area to work on.

I'd say the obvious difference is that pens' exterior surfaces are made of hard rubber or plastic (if not metal). They're not painted.

--Daniel

[kirchh]

That's reassuring. Is there a similar sounding product with glass in it or something?

I've never heard of a polish containing glass. I don't think it would be very effective, given glass's physical properties.

--Daniel

[Scrawler]

I have never used Novus 3 on a pen, but like the results I get with 2 followed by 1. Also I have only polished by hand, not with any machines. I cut sellotape to fit over the imprint before polishing to prevent wearing it down. I do not polish hard rubber pens at all, nor have I ever reblackened them.

[mustud52]

Cripes, thanks to all for their replies.

I think that Mrs Mustud's hair dryer is going to get a real workout as I try out recommendations. Does anyone have a hard rubber hairdryer for me to experiment on?

I think I will take it step by step and see what works for me. So far I have had a rather scattergun approach rather than a disciplined work method. I also have to decide just what level of finish I am after. I think that, in principle, I am after a finish similar to that which would have been on the pen when new. I refer to daggy looking pen, not those I regard as having a pleasing patina of age and use. I realise this very subjective.

[Scrawler]

Cripes, thanks to all for their replies.

I think that Mrs Mustud's hair dryer is going to get a real workout as I try out recommendations. Does anyone have a hard rubber hairdryer for me to experiment on?

I think I will take it step by step and see what works for me. So far I have had a rather scattergun approach rather than a disciplined work method. I also have to decide just what level of finish I am after. I think that, in principle, I am after a finish similar to that which would have been on the pen when new. I refer to daggy looking pen, not those I regard as having a pleasing patina of age and use. I realise this very subjective.

I can give you a piece of hard rubber stock about 4 inches long to practice on if you wish. It is not enough to make a pen out of. It is the remnant of making a cap.

[mustud52]

Cripes, thanks to all for their replies.

I think that Mrs Mustud's hair dryer is going to get a real workout as I try out recommendations. Does anyone have a hard rubber hairdryer for me to experiment on?

I think I will take it step by step and see what works for me. So far I have had a rather scattergun approach rather than a disciplined work method. I also have to decide just what level of finish I am after. I think that, in principle, I am after a finish similar to that which would have been on the pen when new. I refer to daggy looking pen, not those I regard as having a pleasing patina of age and use. I realise this very subjective.

I can give you a piece of hard rubber stock about 4 inches long to practice on if you wish. It is not enough to make a pen out of. It is the remnant of making a cap.

That's fantastic, Scrawler. I will pm you. Much appreciated!

[firstpancake]

Having tried this on some scrap black hard rubber, Novus will indeed discolor hard rubber. The higher the finish, the worse the effect, though that's probably not useful information, as all of them discolor enough that you should touch your hard rubber pens with them.

[Jon Szanto]

Having tried this on some scrap black hard rubber, Novus will indeed discolor hard rubber.

Which begs the question: why would anyone use a plastic polish product on rubber? I certainly would not.

[firstpancake]

Simple curiosity, and having had some hard rubber to try it on. :)

[Scrawler]

Simple curiosity, and having had some hard rubber to try it on. :)

I approve of curiosity, and experimentation. Every mistake is a learning experience, and becomes knowledge that can be passed on. I just caution people to experiment on things of little or no value. Our OP is about to get enough BHR to make every imaginable mistake, and I hope that what he learns will become a lesson to others.

[kirchh]

I have used Meguiars Plast- RX on smooth black hard rubber pens to good effect turning a matt greenish brown surface into a near black glossy surface. The cleaning cloth showed that a slight amount of the surface had been removed, and only a slight amount.

This product is my standard use pen polish compound, I know that others have found products that suits them better, YMMV.
I'm not a fan of PlastX. It's got petroleum distillates in it, among other things. I'd suggest Micro-gloss instead, which is water-based.

--Daniel

[Jon Szanto]

Well, I'm just going to have to try myself some Micro-Gloss now!

[mmahany]

This product is my standard use pen polish compound, I know that others have found products that suits them better, YMMV.

I suppose it's my turn to challege you :)

Perhaps you could educate us about why we should avoid "Petroleum Distillates."

It's an incredibly broad term and I'd dare to say most people use "Petroleum Distillates" in hundreds of different ways throughout their daily lives.

Silly Side Note: Thesaurus.com mentioned "polish" as a synonym for "sanding." However, I knew what you meant with your response to my previous post (unfortunately, you may have overlooked my point).

[mustud52]

Well, I'm just going to have to try myself some Micro-Gloss now!

I have ordered some Micro Gloss myself to try out.

[kirchh]

This product is my standard use pen polish compound, I know that others have found products that suits them better, YMMV.

I suppose it's my turn to challege you :)

Perhaps you could educate us about why we should avoid "Petroleum Distillates."

It's an incredibly broad term and I'd dare to say most people use "Petroleum Distillates" in hundreds of different ways throughout their daily lives.

Silly Side Note: Thesaurus.com mentioned "polish" as a synonym for "sanding." However, I knew what you meant with your response to my previous post (unfortunately, you may have overlooked my point).

That's not my quote.

"Petroleum distillates" is not an "incredibly broad term." It's quite specific. The fact that there are many uses for petroleum distillates has no bearing whatsoever on whether they are safe for use on pens; I'm not sure why you would imply otherwise. Do you believe that if a substance has many uses, it is therefore appropriate or safe for any possible application?

Re "polishing" and "sanding": You stated,


"Polishing" and "Sanding" are nearly sy[n]onymous terms.

That was your own characterization, and I explained that it was wrong. I'm not sure what point you're making now about that.

--Daniel

[Jon Szanto]

I'm not a fan of PlastX. It's got petroleum distillates in it, among other things.

In what ways or aspects are petroleum distillates not appropriate for the uses we are speaking of? Just curious.

And it has just dawned on me: it would be interesting to know the final polishing procedures uses by a number of pen manufacturers in the great days of celluloid and plastic production line pens (something like 1930-1960, or thereabouts). How did Parker finish a pen? Sheaffer? Others?

[mhosea]

I think that a lot of the misunderstanding comes from the word Polish being both a verb and a noun.

...not to mention an adjective, especially when capitalized. ;)

[kirchh]

I'm not a fan of PlastX. It's got petroleum distillates in it, among other things.

In what ways or aspects are petroleum distillates not appropriate for the uses we are speaking of?

Petroleum distillates can attack plastics and rubber.

--Daniel

[mmahany]

I think we can discuss this all day, but let's not. This may provide information relevant to this conversation: http://www.protectall.com/artpetdist.aspx

"Because most people mistakenly believe that all petroleum distillates must be similar, they find it hard to believe that there are so many totally different types, many with completely opposite characteristics and uses."

Long story short, I maintain my previous comment that Petroleum Distillates is a very broad name for a number of different products. When they are found in Lip Gloss, Motor Oil, Pesticides, Perfume, and even PLASTIC watter bottles....I tend to feel that makes it pretty diverse (but that's just me).

Long story short, there are SOME petroleum distillates that CAN be harmful to plastics and rubber. However, it would be incorrect to say that ALL petroleum distillates are harmful. It is NOT a specific term and there are many different types, some harmful and some not.

[kirchh]

I think we can discuss this all day, but let's not. This may provide information relevant to this conversation: http://www.protectall.com/artpetdist.aspx

"Because most people mistakenly believe that all petroleum distillates must be similar, they find it hard to believe that there are so many totally different types, many with completely opposite characteristics and uses."

Long story short, I maintain my previous comment that Petroleum Distillates is a very broad name for a number of different products. When they are found in Lip Gloss, Motor Oil, Pesticides, Perfume, and even PLASTIC watter bottles....I tend to feel that makes it pretty diverse (but that's just me).

Long story short, there are SOME petroleum distillates that CAN be harmful to plastics and rubber. However, it would be incorrect to say that ALL petroleum distillates are harmful. It is NOT a specific term and there are many different types, some harmful and some not.

Of course, I didn't say that "ALL petroleum distillates are harmful." But I appreciate that you are not recommending that petroleum distillates be applied to vintage pens. I'm not either.

--Daniel

[Jon Szanto]

Therefore, some petroleum distillates may be safe for use on some vintage pens.

[kirchh]

Therefore, some petroleum distillates may be safe for use on some vintage pens.

Do you know which ones?

--Daniel

[mmahany]

Therefore, some petroleum distillates may be safe for use on some vintage pens.

The article somewhat addresses that (on a high level) by describing the three basic types of Petroleum Distillates:
1.) Aromatics- It would be wise to avoid these on a pen. These (apparently) are used as solvents such as Carb Cleaner or paint thinner....a bad idea to use on a valuable pen
2.) Naphthenics- the article describes these as "light oils and solvents." These MAY be less harmful, but I'd be inclined to say avoid them as they are used in detergents and paint dryers.
3.) Paraffinic Compounds- These are the distillates that are commonly found in automotive waxes, lotions, and other "delicate" uses.

My understanding, based on my research, is some cheaper waxes and polishes are not properly distilled meaning they may contain "adulterants" which in this case are aromatics or napthenics.

That seems to be the cause of the misconception that ALL petroleum distillates are harmful. Of note: there are automotive waxes that cost as much as $1000 (not a typo) that are petroleum based. My understanding is they undergoe an extremely sensitive distilling process to ensure there are no impurities in the final product.

Of course, it would not be wise to ASSUME these compounds are safe for fountain pens. However, considering these waxes are used on cars that, in some cases, exceed $1million, it would be fair to say that SOME petroleum distillates CAN be safe when used in the correct applications.

[kirchh]

Therefore, some petroleum distillates may be safe for use on some vintage pens.
Of course, it would not be wise to ASSUME these compounds are safe for fountain pens.

I think you're getting it.


However, considering these waxes are used on cars that, in some cases, exceed $1million, it would be fair to say that SOME petroleum distillates CAN be safe when used in the correct applications.

That's definitional, and has not been a point of contention here.

--Daniel

[Jon Szanto]

I'm glad we've got everything sorted out now. :)

[Flounder]

1672316724

I thought you might like to see before and after shots following work on a hard rubber cap using Meguiars polish.

I love what it's done for your sheets too (only joking!)

That's quite an engraving. Anything to do with this Bagdatopulos (http://buttes-chaumont.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/w-s-bagdatopulos.html)?

[grandmia]

Hi All

Unfortunately im not a chemist so i can not comment on Petroleum Distillates. But this video may help you with polishing your pen. Have patience and go easy. Good luck.


http://youtu.be/9-taRQmxTcM

[grandmia]

Your videos (if that is still the right word) are always so helpful and infomative, thank you.

Can I suggest that as these instructional videos are so useful that it would be a great shame and waste to have them lost in a forgotten thread that a link is made in the Library for the benefit of others in the future?

Thank you for your nice comments.

[mustud52]

Cripes, thanks to all for their replies.

I think that Mrs Mustud's hair dryer is going to get a real workout as I try out recommendations. Does anyone have a hard rubber hairdryer for me to experiment on?

I think I will take it step by step and see what works for me. So far I have had a rather scattergun approach rather than a disciplined work method. I also have to decide just what level of finish I am after. I think that, in principle, I am after a finish similar to that which would have been on the pen when new. I refer to daggy looking pen, not those I regard as having a pleasing patina of age and use. I realise this very subjective.

I can give you a piece of hard rubber stock about 4 inches long to practice on if you wish. It is not enough to make a pen out of. It is the remnant of making a cap.

Hey, Scrawly, your parcel arrived today. Thank you so much. I am going to have a lot of fun with those. Have commandeered a number of Mrs Mustud's cotton flimsies to polish things up. In the mean time have been playing with micro polish and micro gloss from here. Results very promising.

http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/polishes/

[Scrawler]

Cripes, thanks to all for their replies.

I think that Mrs Mustud's hair dryer is going to get a real workout as I try out recommendations. Does anyone have a hard rubber hairdryer for me to experiment on?

I think I will take it step by step and see what works for me. So far I have had a rather scattergun approach rather than a disciplined work method. I also have to decide just what level of finish I am after. I think that, in principle, I am after a finish similar to that which would have been on the pen when new. I refer to daggy looking pen, not those I regard as having a pleasing patina of age and use. I realise this very subjective.

I can give you a piece of hard rubber stock about 4 inches long to practice on if you wish. It is not enough to make a pen out of. It is the remnant of making a cap.

Hey, Scrawly, your parcel arrived today. Thank you so much. I am going to have a lot of fun with those. Have commandeered a number of Mrs Mustud's cotton flimsies to polish things up. In the mean time have been playing with micro polish and micro gloss from here. Results very promising.

http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/polishes/

That did not take as long as I expected. It is amazing that we can get stuff to the other side of the world so quick. You can have fun trying different methods now. Will you be posting pics of the results of your experiments?

[mustud52]

Cripes, thanks to all for their replies.

I think that Mrs Mustud's hair dryer is going to get a real workout as I try out recommendations. Does anyone have a hard rubber hairdryer for me to experiment on?

I think I will take it step by step and see what works for me. So far I have had a rather scattergun approach rather than a disciplined work method. I also have to decide just what level of finish I am after. I think that, in principle, I am after a finish similar to that which would have been on the pen when new. I refer to daggy looking pen, not those I regard as having a pleasing patina of age and use. I realise this very subjective.

I can give you a piece of hard rubber stock about 4 inches long to practice on if you wish. It is not enough to make a pen out of. It is the remnant of making a cap.

Hey, Scrawly, your parcel arrived today. Thank you so much. I am going to have a lot of fun with those. Have commandeered a number of Mrs Mustud's cotton flimsies to polish things up. In the mean time have been playing with micro polish and micro gloss from here. Results very promising.

http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/polishes/

That did not take as long as I expected. It is amazing that we can get stuff to the other side of the world so quick. You can have fun trying different methods now. Will you be posting pics of the results of your experiments?

Of course. However I run the risk of looking silly. A situation I have become familiar with over the years.

[mustud52]

Scrawly, I have spent about two hours playing with the hard rubber stock you sent me. It is a revelation to me. I could do things I would never dare to do with a pen. Thank you very much, I truly appreciate the opportunity.

I am afraid that photos would not really display the different results using different products and different techniques. Well, not the ones that I could take, anyway. You may need to send rods to all FPG members now.

Once I finish with the rubber I will start with the pens you sent me. I feel sorry for them.

So many products, so little time...

Loving it.

[Scrawler]

Scrawly, I have spent about two hours playing with the hard rubber stock you sent me. It is a revelation to me. I could do things I would never dare to do with a pen. Thank you very much, I truly appreciate the opportunity.

I am afraid that photos would not really display the different results using different products and different techniques. Well, not the ones that I could take, anyway. You may need to send rods to all FPG members now.

Once I finish with the rubber I will start with the pens you sent me. I feel sorry for them.

So many products, so little time...

Loving it.
I am so glad you are having fun. You might get more mileage by cutting that rod in half, or maybe disks. I am down to my last 8 inch rod. It is enough to make one pen. I was originally planning to use it to make feeds for Esterbrook nib conversions. I was putting superflex nibs in Esterbrook carriers, and was experimenting with feed flow control.

I feel sorry for those pens too. It is a particular shame about the Harris pen. I have not seen many. They were made for students. They have a screw in coloured cap to show what colour ink you had. You can easily unscrew the one I sent you. They have a springy rather than flexible nib. Here is what its brother looks like:

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx153/FPWriter/Harrispen_zpsok418jyf.jpg

[mustud52]

Scrawly, I have spent about two hours playing with the hard rubber stock you sent me. It is a revelation to me. I could do things I would never dare to do with a pen. Thank you very much, I truly appreciate the opportunity.

I am afraid that photos would not really display the different results using different products and different techniques. Well, not the ones that I could take, anyway. You may need to send rods to all FPG members now.

Once I finish with the rubber I will start with the pens you sent me. I feel sorry for them.

So many products, so little time...

Loving it.
I am so glad you are having fun. You might get more mileage by cutting that rod in half, or maybe disks. I am down to my last 8 inch rod. It is enough to make one pen. I was originally planning to use it to make feeds for Esterbrook nib conversions. I was putting superflex nibs in Esterbrook carriers, and was experimenting with feed flow control.

I feel sorry for those pens too. It is a particular shame about the Harris pen. I have not seen many. They were made for students. They have a screw in coloured cap to show what colour ink you had. You can easily unscrew the one I sent you. They have a springy rather than flexible nib. Here is what its brother looks like:

http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx153/FPWriter/Harrispen_zpsok418jyf.jpg

I have a new respect for hard rubber (no giggles, please). Very accepting of hand polishing, and, I have found, surprisingly forgiving. Playing with that little rod (once again, no giggles, please) has made me far more confident to touch up a couple of my pens needing a little attention.

I have found that the patience required is good for the soul. Pen Zen.

Once again, thanks Scrawler.

[Scrawler]

I have a new respect for hard rubber (no giggles, please). Very accepting of hand polishing, and, I have found, surprisingly forgiving. Playing with that little rod (once again, no giggles, please) has made me far more confident to touch up a couple of my pens needing a little attention.

I have found that the patience required is good for the soul. Pen Zen.

Once again, thanks Scrawler.

The giggling started at "touch up". It may well have a different meaning in Australia :bounce: Anyway, I am glad you are having success. I agree on the patience and zen-like attitude. Polishing needs to be approached with a calm, relaxed, attitude.