John Martinson
March 23rd, 2015, 10:25 AM
Visconti Opera Typhoon and Masters are high maintenance pens. So there are a few things you need to know:
Nib Collar
The nib collar and feed are made of a soft plastic. The collar itself has a rubber o-ring on the end and two slots on the sides. Many posts on this forum will show you an example of Visconti's Nib Removal tool. Basically, they are square pin slots, and you can use a pin spanner for unscrewing the collar. I do not recommend pulling the nib and feed out because you risk ruining the fins on the plastic feed. You can use a hair dryer to expand the section. That way, it'll be easier to unscrew the collar. Using the nib removal tool, or pin spanner, firmly but carefully unscrew the nib collar. You need to be aware that Visconti makes these collars fit very tightly in the sections sometimes. Once you unscrew the collar, all three pieces (nib, feed, collar) will come out as one unit.
If you're happy with your Visconti nib, you can skip down the post where I talk about the metal section.
The 23k Palladium DreamTouch nib is arguably one of the softest and least forgiving nibs currently manufactured. They are not flexible nibs. The Typhoon nib I think is an improvement, but like most Viscontis, they have issues right out of the box. Since the Typhoon is a tubular nib it's stiffer than the DreamTouch nib, I found it more durable; let alone more line variation in the stub version. In any case, if you are experiencing any problems with scratchiness or skipping, etc., don't blame yourself; it's Visconti's nib manufacturing process. The nib is wedged between the collar and feed causing the nib to curve down on the sides. If you have a DreamTouch nib with troubles, my suggestion is Michael Masuyama (http://www.mikeitwork.com/). Masuyama-san is one of the best nib men around, since Visconti had sent many of their own pens to him for tweaking.
The Section
The metal section is a press fit collar on an acrylic sleeve that is adhered together. The entire section is screw into the barrel of the pen. It makes up part of Visconti's Double Filler system.
Visconti uses a proprietary adhesive akin to Sheaffer's tacky shellac. Once you add heat, the collar and section expands and you can unscrew the whole section entirely. Use a hair dryer on low to heat up the section. While heating, turn the barrel to circulate the heat around the section. You can count 2 to 3 minutes or so while turning the barrel. It'll take some time. Once heated, use a rubber tube to grip the section and unscrew. You can use a pliers with rubber tubing on the jaws if you like, but it's usually not necessary. Dale Beebe from Pentooling.com has several pliers (http://pentooling.com/pliers.html) you can choose and they're usually between $10-$30. I recommend the Heavy Duty pliers and get some rubber tubing from your local hardware store and cut them to fit over the jaws. Clear plastic tubing works, too.
Take your pliers. Grip over the clear plastic and metal threads on the section to unscrew from the barrel. Now, you'll have full access to the barrel and power filler.
Inspect the threads. Dry shellac can flake right off them and you can gently scrape the threads clean with a razor blade or dental tool and a light touch. You'll be brushing new shellac on the threads when you're ready to install, so you'll want a clean surface for it.
The Barrel
Visconti's PowerFiller is essentially the same design as Twsbi's Vac 700 and Pilot's Custom 823, but they all hark back to that earlier vacuum filler, the Sheaffer Vac Fill. Jim Maumoulides of Pen Hero tells a good history on this design (http://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/Sheaffer/SheafferVacuumFilGuide.htm). Gaskets, rods and grease all make great filling pens.
Since you got the section unscrewed, let's clean the barrel.
Unscrew the blind cap and pull the rod back all the way to gain access inside the barrel. If you want to clean the water or ink out, twist a paper towel or any tissue until it's long enough to cover the length of the barrel. Then, insert the twisted paper towel into the barrel and clean it all out. Pretty easy, right?
Now, if you want to make your PowerFiller better, you need to create a tighter seal. Pentooling.com has silicone grease in a convenient syringe. It's $6 a tube, a real bargain. Take a cotton swab or your syringe and dab a small bit of grease on the shaft. Push the rod towards the barrel. A good quality seal can come with a sweet "pop". Then, grease the gasket on the end of the shaft. Use a bit of grease on the barrel and pushed the rod forward to lubricate around the gasket.
Re-installation
Shellac the section threads. I found Ron Zorn's Thread Sealant (http://www.mainstreetpens.com/stuff.htm) more effective in providing an effective seal around the threads than basic brush on shellac. It's tacky, thick, and loosens up when heated. Take a toothpick and dip it in the jar of the sealant. It'll be gooey, so you'll want to heat it up with a hair dryer or heat gun. Once properly heated, spread the sealant around the section threads. Screw back on the section. Clean up the barrel and section of the excess sealant with Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel or cloth.
When installing the nib collar, feed and nib back into the section, use a little silicone grease to make it easier to thread in. Dab some grease on the collar threads and O-ring gasket. Screw in using your pin spanner. After that, let the pen sit for 24 hrs for the sealant to cool then test it with warm water or ink.
Please take proper time when removing and re-installing the nib collar and section from these pens. But once it's done and the pen writes well, you'll be very satisfied.
JM
Nib Collar
The nib collar and feed are made of a soft plastic. The collar itself has a rubber o-ring on the end and two slots on the sides. Many posts on this forum will show you an example of Visconti's Nib Removal tool. Basically, they are square pin slots, and you can use a pin spanner for unscrewing the collar. I do not recommend pulling the nib and feed out because you risk ruining the fins on the plastic feed. You can use a hair dryer to expand the section. That way, it'll be easier to unscrew the collar. Using the nib removal tool, or pin spanner, firmly but carefully unscrew the nib collar. You need to be aware that Visconti makes these collars fit very tightly in the sections sometimes. Once you unscrew the collar, all three pieces (nib, feed, collar) will come out as one unit.
If you're happy with your Visconti nib, you can skip down the post where I talk about the metal section.
The 23k Palladium DreamTouch nib is arguably one of the softest and least forgiving nibs currently manufactured. They are not flexible nibs. The Typhoon nib I think is an improvement, but like most Viscontis, they have issues right out of the box. Since the Typhoon is a tubular nib it's stiffer than the DreamTouch nib, I found it more durable; let alone more line variation in the stub version. In any case, if you are experiencing any problems with scratchiness or skipping, etc., don't blame yourself; it's Visconti's nib manufacturing process. The nib is wedged between the collar and feed causing the nib to curve down on the sides. If you have a DreamTouch nib with troubles, my suggestion is Michael Masuyama (http://www.mikeitwork.com/). Masuyama-san is one of the best nib men around, since Visconti had sent many of their own pens to him for tweaking.
The Section
The metal section is a press fit collar on an acrylic sleeve that is adhered together. The entire section is screw into the barrel of the pen. It makes up part of Visconti's Double Filler system.
Visconti uses a proprietary adhesive akin to Sheaffer's tacky shellac. Once you add heat, the collar and section expands and you can unscrew the whole section entirely. Use a hair dryer on low to heat up the section. While heating, turn the barrel to circulate the heat around the section. You can count 2 to 3 minutes or so while turning the barrel. It'll take some time. Once heated, use a rubber tube to grip the section and unscrew. You can use a pliers with rubber tubing on the jaws if you like, but it's usually not necessary. Dale Beebe from Pentooling.com has several pliers (http://pentooling.com/pliers.html) you can choose and they're usually between $10-$30. I recommend the Heavy Duty pliers and get some rubber tubing from your local hardware store and cut them to fit over the jaws. Clear plastic tubing works, too.
Take your pliers. Grip over the clear plastic and metal threads on the section to unscrew from the barrel. Now, you'll have full access to the barrel and power filler.
Inspect the threads. Dry shellac can flake right off them and you can gently scrape the threads clean with a razor blade or dental tool and a light touch. You'll be brushing new shellac on the threads when you're ready to install, so you'll want a clean surface for it.
The Barrel
Visconti's PowerFiller is essentially the same design as Twsbi's Vac 700 and Pilot's Custom 823, but they all hark back to that earlier vacuum filler, the Sheaffer Vac Fill. Jim Maumoulides of Pen Hero tells a good history on this design (http://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/Sheaffer/SheafferVacuumFilGuide.htm). Gaskets, rods and grease all make great filling pens.
Since you got the section unscrewed, let's clean the barrel.
Unscrew the blind cap and pull the rod back all the way to gain access inside the barrel. If you want to clean the water or ink out, twist a paper towel or any tissue until it's long enough to cover the length of the barrel. Then, insert the twisted paper towel into the barrel and clean it all out. Pretty easy, right?
Now, if you want to make your PowerFiller better, you need to create a tighter seal. Pentooling.com has silicone grease in a convenient syringe. It's $6 a tube, a real bargain. Take a cotton swab or your syringe and dab a small bit of grease on the shaft. Push the rod towards the barrel. A good quality seal can come with a sweet "pop". Then, grease the gasket on the end of the shaft. Use a bit of grease on the barrel and pushed the rod forward to lubricate around the gasket.
Re-installation
Shellac the section threads. I found Ron Zorn's Thread Sealant (http://www.mainstreetpens.com/stuff.htm) more effective in providing an effective seal around the threads than basic brush on shellac. It's tacky, thick, and loosens up when heated. Take a toothpick and dip it in the jar of the sealant. It'll be gooey, so you'll want to heat it up with a hair dryer or heat gun. Once properly heated, spread the sealant around the section threads. Screw back on the section. Clean up the barrel and section of the excess sealant with Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel or cloth.
When installing the nib collar, feed and nib back into the section, use a little silicone grease to make it easier to thread in. Dab some grease on the collar threads and O-ring gasket. Screw in using your pin spanner. After that, let the pen sit for 24 hrs for the sealant to cool then test it with warm water or ink.
Please take proper time when removing and re-installing the nib collar and section from these pens. But once it's done and the pen writes well, you'll be very satisfied.
JM