Info requested for first restoration project.

[The_Mick]

I picked up this Sheaffer for just a few dollars to use as a intro into restorations and see how it goes. I already restor straight razors so I imagine this should be a fun added hobby.
My questions as a beginner are first, what model is this ? The best I could find so far was Triumph nib on a Tuckaway? I don't believe the dap goes with this but could be wrong. It says USA Evenrite on the cap.
I also would like to know if anyone could direct me to the proper sac to replace on this as I'm not 100% sure.
Last, the nib rotates slightly, does the boiling water method work on these nibs ? If so what pointers for squeezing it should I know? If not what is a proper method ?

Sorry for the many questions but we all must start somewhere. I've done much reading and video watching but still never hands on with this and would like to avoid as many mistakes as possible during the learning curve.
Thank you in advance.
Mick.21129
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[Laura N]

You could start here with Richard Binder's reference pages (http://www.richardspens.com/?page=ref/00_refp.htm).

[mhosea]

+1 on Richard's references. But the short answer on the sac is to measure the diameter of the sac nipple. The sac number is in 64ths of an inch, so if it measures, say, a quarter of an inch, then a size 16 is the largest that will fit. One size smaller usually works quite well, and is what Richard tends to recommend. Smaller than that will almost always work in a pinch but will be harder to install, hold less ink, etc.

[The_Mick]

Thank you I will bookmark that site for future reference.

One size smaller, good to know.

[Robert111]

I don't think your pen is a Tucky. I don't think they made lever fillers after the initial very scarce first-year model, which yours is not.

The girth and nib make me think it's a Valiant II, possibly a Statesman II, which were made immediately after WWII--1945-1948.

[The_Mick]

Thank you I will look into that. Last night I found a video of a 1250 Thats looks the same other then mine doesn't say 1250 under the makers mark.

[The_Mick]

I've done a lot of research and have come to conclusion that this particular pen and its seemingly infamous nib will have to wait until I have a bit more skill. So for now it will be put away for another time.

[Jon Szanto]

Thank you I will look into that. Last night I found a video of a 1250 Thats looks the same other then mine doesn't say 1250 under the makers mark.

Note: that isn't a model number, that was actually the suggested retail price. Sheaffer did this for many years, and many different pens held same price code (this would have been to sell at $12.50). As such, it can't be used to identify the model of pen.


I've done a lot of research and have come to conclusion that this particular pen and its seemingly infamous nib will have to wait until I have a bit more skill. So for now it will be put away for another time.

Certainly a good way to go, as it is best to understand both the pen and the repair. OTOH, there *are* some respected repair people that don't charge an arm and a leg, and you could get this one up and running with not too big an outlay of money - lever fillers are always the easiest for them to work on (generally speaking).

[The_Mick]

Yeah with the very little I know (just now getting into these a little), not having the proper cap and all the variations I'm having a tough time figuring out what it is.
As far as sending it out, I'm torn as my primary reason for looking into this is as a hobby. I have been doing restorations on straight razors and old Gillette razors for a few years and thought about expanding to these for a few reasons. I was forced into an early retirement due to a heart injury and need Hobbies!!!
My biggest question is this nib and how to set it. From what I've read so far that is a bit of trouble for a newbie without proper tooling, so for at least that part I may send out then re sac it myself as a first.

[Jon Szanto]

Yeah with the very little I know (just now getting into these a little), not having the proper cap and all the variations I'm having a tough time figuring out what it is.
As far as sending it out, I'm torn as my primary reason for looking into this is as a hobby. I have been doing restorations on straight razors and old Gillette razors for a few years and thought about expanding to these for a few reasons. I was forced into an early retirement due to a heart injury and need Hobbies!!!
My biggest question is this nib and how to set it. From what I've read so far that is a bit of trouble for a newbie without proper tooling, so for at least that part I may send out then re sac it myself as a first.

Understood. The Sheaffer conical nibs are a very different beast from standard nibs, and would require care, tools, and a bit of background with simpler tasks. May I simply suggest that, of all the things you might consider (having read your above response) is to purchase a copy of the excellent "Pen Repair (3rd Edition)" by Jim Marshall and Laurence Oldfield? In the 5 years I've been involved in pens it is by far the best money I've spent with regards to repairs. Indispensable, really.

[The_Mick]

Yeah with the very little I know (just now getting into these a little), not having the proper cap and all the variations I'm having a tough time figuring out what it is.
As far as sending it out, I'm torn as my primary reason for looking into this is as a hobby. I have been doing restorations on straight razors and old Gillette razors for a few years and thought about expanding to these for a few reasons. I was forced into an early retirement due to a heart injury and need Hobbies!!!
My biggest question is this nib and how to set it. From what I've read so far that is a bit of trouble for a newbie without proper tooling, so for at least that part I may send out then re sac it myself as a first.

Understood. The Sheaffer conical nibs are a very different beast from standard nibs, and would require care, tools, and a bit of background with simpler tasks. May I simply suggest that, of all the things you might consider (having read your above response) is to purchase a copy of the excellent "Pen Repair (3rd Edition)" by Jim Marshall and Laurence Oldfield? In the 5 years I've been involved in pens it is by far the best money I've spent with regards to repairs. Indispensable, really.

I will most definitely pick this up into the near future. Knowledge is power after all.