PDA

View Full Version : Pelikan trouble



SeminarianMike
February 27th, 2016, 01:08 PM
I recieve A m1000 in a trade and there is is a gap between the piston nob and the body. On my m800 this is not there and the other Pelikans I have this doesn't exist. Is this an easy fix for me or do I need to demand my m805 back. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160227/8624959d4fc38adb73caeb2c7e358d42.jpg

jar
February 27th, 2016, 01:29 PM
Looks like the piston is not properly seated.

SeminarianMike
February 27th, 2016, 01:44 PM
Is this an easy fix jar or should I send back?

Hawk
February 27th, 2016, 02:28 PM
Did you see a picture of the pen prior to trading? That might make a difference in trading back again. An expensive pen with problems may be costly to repair.

SeminarianMike
February 27th, 2016, 02:45 PM
I did see pics but nothing close up of the piston. He agreed to trade back the pen is going back monday

Hawk
February 27th, 2016, 02:51 PM
I think it may be a smart move. It sounds like the person is one of the good guys.

SeminarianMike
February 27th, 2016, 03:10 PM
Yes Carlos is wonderful! It's a shame the trade didn't work out

Robert
February 27th, 2016, 04:28 PM
You may find the reason for the gap in this video by SBRE Brown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpdsOssLUn4

It's a little over 7 minutes, but the clue to the gap starts at about the 4-minute mark.

SeminarianMike
February 27th, 2016, 05:29 PM
Sure seems like what I'm experiencing. Just need to get his permission to fix it

stub
February 28th, 2016, 05:58 AM
Trade back.

The M805 is a much better pen. :bolt:

Hawk
February 28th, 2016, 08:37 AM
Trade back.

The M805 is a much better pen. :bolt:

Why do you say that? I own both and do not have a preference. Sometimes I like the larger pen and sometimes the smaller M800.

stub
February 28th, 2016, 09:06 AM
I have owned multiple examples of both. Don't ever plan to own an M1000 again.

I think it is a flawed design. The nib is too large and way too mushy. Too many have flow problems and just dump ink all over the place. The nib too easily develops an inverse taper and many come that way. For some odd reason many of them show up with extreme baby's bottom. That nib is too big and too soft, imo.

Plus personal preferences. The pen is just a bigger 800 and yet that extra length is just enough to put the brass piston assembly up in the air and ruin the balance of the pen entirely for me. Where as the 800 doesn't feel as ass-heavy as the bulk of the piston largely rests on your paw. If you have absolutely enormous Michael Jordon size mitts than maybe the M1000 is a nice fit. Personally I found the M805 nearly perfect and the M1000 a step down ergonomically, too fat, too messy and just imprecise and unwieldily.

I would advise anyone determined to own one, get it from a nib tech. I have owned several and handled many and I would bet that 70% of Pelikan's returns and warrantee issues are from the M1000. I would also bet a comparatively small number of 600s and 800s get returned. The M1000 can be great if you get a good one, use it carefully and it fits your hand. But I tried several times to love the M1000, at some expense. I give up. It isn't the pen for me and I also am convinced that nib is pretty much untenable. & no they are not springy. My 400nns (all 4 of them) were springy. My Platinum is springy, my Sheaffer Statesmen and half a dozen Waterman I own are springy. The M1000 is just mushy.

mhosea
February 28th, 2016, 01:18 PM
I recieve A m1000 in a trade and there is is a gap between the piston nob and the body. On my m800 this is not there and the other Pelikans I have this doesn't exist. Is this an easy fix for me or do I need to demand my m805 back. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160227/8624959d4fc38adb73caeb2c7e358d42.jpg

It could be that the piston needs to be tightened into place. You might be able to do this by fully unscrewing the blind cap and twisting a little as if to try to unscrew it more. This is because the threads that hold the piston into the barrel are backwards from what might expect. Counter-clockwise (looking from the blind cap end) tightens, clockwise loosens. Note that if the piston assembly is fully seated, I wouldn't try to remove the piston assembly by turning the blind cap forcefully with it all the way down. You need a wrench for that. A TWSBI wrench fits perfectly.

The reason I wouldn't try to remove the piston assembly that way is that the other cause of this gap, which I actually think is the more likely cause, is fairly subtle adjustment. The piston is attached to a threaded rod, which fits inside the brass housing. You start to thread the piston rod into the brass assembly when the blind cap has been turned just the right amount. If you start the threaded rod with the blind cap too far out, the top of the threaded rod reaches the back of the blind cap before the blind cap gets to the barrel, hence the gap. A lot of variation in final position is possible. SBRE Brown's video shows this. The gap you show means, I think, that the blind cap needs another half turn before the threaded rod starts threading in. Play with it, as shown in Stephen's video. Or send it back if you're not comfortable making these adjustments. Just please realize that this condition probably does not suggest a defect, rather that somebody has had the piston out, probably to lube it, and either they weren't aware of the subtlety or didn't notice that they didn't get it quite right when they put it back together last time.

Hawk
February 28th, 2016, 04:41 PM
I have owned multiple examples of both. Don't ever plan to own an M1000 again.

I think it is a flawed design. The nib is too large and way too mushy. Too many have flow problems and just dump ink all over the place. The nib too easily develops an inverse taper and many come that way. For some odd reason many of them show up with extreme baby's bottom. That nib is too big and too soft, imo.

Plus personal preferences. The pen is just a bigger 800 and yet that extra length is just enough to put the brass piston assembly up in the air and ruin the balance of the pen entirely for me. Where as the 800 doesn't feel as ass-heavy as the bulk of the piston largely rests on your paw. If you have absolutely enormous Michael Jordon size mitts than maybe the M1000 is a nice fit. Personally I found the M805 nearly perfect and the M1000 a step down ergonomically, too fat, too messy and just imprecise and unwieldily.

I would advise anyone determined to own one, get it from a nib tech. I have owned several and handled many and I would bet that 70% of Pelikan's returns and warrantee issues are from the M1000. I would also bet a comparatively small number of 600s and 800s get returned. The M1000 can be great if you get a good one, use it carefully and it fits your hand. But I tried several times to love the M1000, at some expense. I give up. It isn't the pen for me and I also am convinced that nib is pretty much untenable. & no they are not springy. My 400nns (all 4 of them) were springy. My Platinum is springy, my Sheaffer Statesmen and half a dozen Waterman I own are springy. The M1000 is just mushy.

Just for the sake of a different viewpoint and not to argue with your observations, here is my limited opinion.
Neither my nor my wifes 1000 has blobed ink, they have been well behaved.
The nib size is in proportion to the pen size, I like that.
Our pens were purchased from a pen seller and not tuned, they write smooth. Tuning might be better but we have no complaints. They do write wider than American pens I'm used to so we opted for fine instead of medium nibs.
I find the balance point just below the end of the posted cap where the web of my fingers rest and the nib rests lightly on the paper on the 800 as well as the 1000. My hands are average male and not huge. My wife has small hands and the balance doesn't bother her. Maybe we are not too particular in that respect. I am comfortable writing with a Parker 75 and various other pens as well, go figure.
I am not a springy nib person so line variation is not a criteria for me. From my experience, modern Pelikan nibs are not 'flexie'. The 800 nib is more of a nail than the 1000. One 1000, two 800ís, smaller modern pens and a few older ones.
I am not sure what you mean by mushy (springy but not springy) or inverse taper with respect to the nib.
People as well as fountain pens have personalities, that's why we have so many choices.

SeminarianMike
February 28th, 2016, 06:26 PM
It was the issue In the video. Blind cap and throw of the piston were off. I really wish I would have not traded but now the pens a 100% I will honor the pen, send it to a nib smith have the nib worked over and keep it in my collection so I can continue collecting every pelikan...

Hawk
February 29th, 2016, 12:32 PM
I'm glad you brought up the subject. The FPG Community gave you the solution and I learned something.

katherine
February 29th, 2016, 12:50 PM
It was the issue In the video. Blind cap and throw of the piston were off. I really wish I would have not traded but now the pens a 100% I will honor the pen, send it to a nib smith have the nib worked over and keep it in my collection so I can continue collecting every pelikan...

EVERY Pelikan?! Good luck! :D

SeminarianMike
March 1st, 2016, 12:37 PM
It was the issue In the video. Blind cap and throw of the piston were off. I really wish I would have not traded but now the pens a 100% I will honor the pen, send it to a nib smith have the nib worked over and keep it in my collection so I can continue collecting every pelikan...

EVERY Pelikan?! Good luck! :D

Yes I'm out to own every pelikan ever made [emoji18]. No one of every pelikan in the M series

masterguns
June 7th, 2016, 06:10 AM
I know this thread is old, but future readers may benefit.
This is really a very easy fix, IF one has the right tool. The tool is nothing more than a flat, thin wrench (like a TWSBI wrench). I made my own from a piece of scrap metal and about an hour of filing.
The video link in post #8 shows it perfectly.
Simply open the piston knob, insert wrench, tighten piston knob back onto the wrench, and unscrew the piston unit out of the barrel.
Then one just needs to adjust the piston rod in the brass body until it is the right distance to allow the unit to go back into the pen with the knob sitting flush.
It may seem a bit scary to do on an expensive pen, but it really is no big deal and really does not put the pen in any danger of damage.