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View Full Version : Waterman 94 Olive Ripple with crack in cap. Please advise.



Lexaf
September 3rd, 2016, 10:03 AM
Hello Friends,

For over a year I have been not active on this board due to health problems. But now I recovered, picked up the Fountain Pen Passion again and here I am, back to this fine community.

Recently I found in a nearby antique shop a nice old Waterman pen. It is a rather large #94 in the rare color Yellow/Olive Ripple. Produced round 1925 I think. The pen sports a very nice and semi flex no. 4 nib that is writing smooth and comfortable.
So far for the good news. The bad news is that there is a quite large crack in the cap as you can see in one of the pictures below. Although I know that it is practically impossible to glue or bond or weld ebonite or hard rubber, I still hope for some advise to at least stabilize the crack so it will not go further as it is now. I heard of Loctite 480, cyanoacrilate based, that possibly might bond hard rubber parts. Disadvantage is that this stuff is black. Nice for the average black HR pens, but not for this light colored yellow one. Any one who has some experience with working with Loctite glues? Is there also a transparent variety with the same specs as Loctite 480? I will keep the pen anyway as it is a nice addition to my collection of vintage Waterman pens. It is, despite the crack, still a beauty to look at, but it would be nice if I could repair the crack in some way so it would be at least somewhat less visible. Thanks in advance for reading this and hoping for you help. Below you will find some pictures.

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj504/Lex_van_Galen/DSCF7040_zps85ljmwjb.jpg (http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/Lex_van_Galen/media/DSCF7040_zps85ljmwjb.jpg.html)

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj504/Lex_van_Galen/DSCF7042_zpsrsuvztnz.jpg (http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/Lex_van_Galen/media/DSCF7042_zpsrsuvztnz.jpg.html)

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj504/Lex_van_Galen/DSCF7044_zpswbbp4whz.jpg (http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/Lex_van_Galen/media/DSCF7044_zpswbbp4whz.jpg.html)

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj504/Lex_van_Galen/DSCF7046_zpsrpv3oanz.jpg (http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/Lex_van_Galen/media/DSCF7046_zpsrpv3oanz.jpg.html)

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj504/Lex_van_Galen/DSCF7047_zpsxtke2mou.jpg (http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/Lex_van_Galen/media/DSCF7047_zpsxtke2mou.jpg.html)

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj504/Lex_van_Galen/DSCF7051_zpsimpcet0o.jpg (http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/Lex_van_Galen/media/DSCF7051_zpsimpcet0o.jpg.html)

Farmboy
September 3rd, 2016, 11:49 AM
I would opt to leave the cap alone.

Blue Note
September 3rd, 2016, 02:40 PM
I agree with Farmboy. The cap band should hold it together at the starting end of the crack. Just be very careful unscrewing and screwing the cap back on and don't post the cap in order to not stress the top end of the crack. Lovely pen to add to your collection nonetheless.

D Armstrong
September 3rd, 2016, 03:03 PM
I concur. Part of the problem is that whatever you do may interfere with the internal threading. Squishing anything in there is a bad idea, especially if it's an unknown for you.

Robert
September 3rd, 2016, 04:12 PM
Lex - - Glad to hear that you're on the mend and back on FPG.

Lexaf
September 5th, 2016, 05:17 AM
Clear advice! Thanks a lot.:cheers: