Pelikan binde adhesive?

[hberg32]

Hi - the binde on my Pelikan has delaminated and peeled off completely. It came away perfectly cleanly so I should think it would be a good candidate for reattachment but can anyone advise an adhesive or welding solvent for reattaching it? MEK? Acrylic weld? Are the barrel/binde even acrylic or cellulose acetate?

Also, what do you think about using heat shrink tubing to clamp the pen while the repair sets? Seems like a perfect way to hold the binde tight and a little light heat seems like a good way to convince those stubborn edges to quit pulling away from the body.

Henry

[penwash]

Just an idea, before you glue back the binde, maybe you'd want to consider one of Shawn Newton's services to make a new binde out of a material of your choice.

Here's the link: https://newtonpens.com/pen-modifications/

[dfo]

+1 Newton's work is beautiful. I don't mind using my expensive Pelikan as a daily driver, because there is hope if the binde breaks .


Just an idea, before you glue back the binde, maybe you'd want to consider one of Shawn Newton's services to make a new binde out of a material of your choice.

Here's the link: https://newtonpens.com/pen-modifications/

[earthdawn]

Just an idea, before you glue back the binde, maybe you'd want to consider one of Shawn Newton's services to make a new binde out of a material of your choice.

Here's the link: https://newtonpens.com/pen-modifications/

100% agree as well

[inklord]

To "clamp"the Binde during adhesive setting I'd use fusion tape, available in the electrical section or tape section of hardware stores. It only sticks to itself, not to the material it's wrapped around, doesn't need heat to cure/shrink and can easily be removed by cutting it. I've had good results in gluing Pelikan vintage pens with acrylate = superglue.

[D Armstrong]

What model is your pen? Early Pelikans are celluloid, but the bindes aren't welded to the barrel, and shellac is the best option to keep them in place.

As far as shrink tubing goes, I'd be careful. I don't know just how much pressure a piece can create. I would be more inclined to use elastic banding (like physiotherapists use) or a dental clamp which would give you much more control as far as pressure goes. Also, bindes tend to be more heat sensitive than most pen parts, probably due to their being very thin.

[hberg32]

What model is your pen? Early Pelikans are celluloid, but the bindes aren't welded to the barrel, and shellac is the best option to keep them in place.

Thanks for all the replies. I've spoken with Shawn and I figure I'm going to give this one honest try to repair myself and if I botch it, off it goes to him for that nifty lizard print.

The pen is a modern M1000. I bought it about 10-15 years ago. Not sure how long they had it in stock before that. It's old enough to predate their "recent" logo switch but I don't think it could be called vintage by any stretch. When you suggest shellac, you're referring to vintage pens not modern ones, right?

Henry

[D Armstrong]

Oh no, shellac is very good for use on all pens, in many applications. It is cheap, waterproof, and completely reversible. In my opinion, every person repairing pens should have a bottle of it on their bench. About the size of a bottle of nail polish will last for a very long time.

[Wile E Coyote]

Oh no, shellac is very good for use on all pens, in many applications. It is cheap, waterproof, and completely reversible. In my opinion, every person repairing pens should have a bottle of it on their bench. About the size of a bottle of nail polish will last for a very long time.

And on the other side of the spectrum...No pen repair bench should have any CA, cyanoacrylate, super-glue. For the reasons shellac is recommended, CA is the exact opposite in properties.

[fountainpenkid]

Oh no, shellac is very good for use on all pens, in many applications. It is cheap, waterproof, and completely reversible. In my opinion, every person repairing pens should have a bottle of it on their bench. About the size of a bottle of nail polish will last for a very long time.

And on the other side of the spectrum...No pen repair bench should have any CA, cyanoacrylate, super-glue. For the reasons shellac is recommended, CA is the exact opposite in properties.

Super glue worked well repairing the broken piston mechanism on my Lamy 2000 stainless steel, although I'm not sure how it will hold up in the long run (a week's hard use it not enough to tell).

[D Armstrong]

Agreed. And a good, waterproof epoxy like G2. And MEK. And the acrylic solvent whose name eludes me at the moment.

Actually, CA is reversible, with about the same amount of heat as shellac. It's just much harder to remove the residue. You also have to be careful using it in ink-exposure areas, as it can degrade in time when in contact with water.

[hberg32]

Update - I tried my plan of using MEK with a heat shrink tube and the result was a total disaster. The binde warped somehow and came out blotchy and disfigured. Sadly, a bit of MEK got onto the threads on the section which I believe is now toast. Might was well just order a new body. Anyone know where I can do this?

[hberg32]

On further inspection I found that the section threads just had some goo in them so the body might be ok and just need some turning on a lathe to clean the mess off.

What's very strange is the result. The binde feels like it made a tight and solid weld but the diameter of the body is now dramatically larger than before (the pen cap doesn't fit on now) and there are a couple large bulges. What I suspect happened is that the MEK softened the binde and body fairly quickly but the heat I applied to the shrink tube caused it to boil. The bubbles must have hardened as it all cured and cooled. Nothing appears to have been permanently damaged (aside from the binde) so I think it's time to send it off to Shawn Newton to see if it is salvageable.

[penwash]

I think it's time to send it off to Shawn Newton to see if it is salvageable.

You mean as I originally suggested? :)

I mean that as a friendly poke. Please don't be offended :boink:

I give you a lot of points for trying to glue it back yourself. In your shoes, I probably would do the same thing, if I weren't smitten by Shawn's cool Ebonite binde.

[datainadequate]

On further inspection I found that the section threads just had some goo in them so the body might be ok and just need some turning on a lathe to clean the mess off.

Glad to hear it might be salvageable. Kudos to you for trying anyway, not sure I would have dared to attempt such a job on a Pelikan.