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Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 1st, 2013, 07:11 PM
Hi all...I've got a Hero 8 Horses (yep, that's really the name) but the nib is a little scratchy. These pens are VERY inexpensive, under $10.00, so not really worth sending off the a pro to work on, but I thought someone here might have a suggestion. I've got my dad's Arkansas stone, and some very, very fine wet-dry sandpaper--is there a special way to use them?

I'm going to post this in the repair thread, too...

Thanks!

cedargirl
June 1st, 2013, 11:49 PM
Hi Cathy

I have heard of people using an Arkansas stone on a nib, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you were wanting to do major surgery on it. If you just want to smooth the nib, in my opinion, it is better to use micro-mesh or mylar sheet abrasives.

I use both and the micro-mesh pads start at 1500 grit and go up to 12000. I usually use the 4000 to 12000 range. I can't buy wet and dry abrasive in anything over 2500 grit. If your Arkansas stone is a very fine grit - one of the translucent stones - you might be able to try it, but in general Arkansas stones are used to take a fair bit of metal off a chisel or knife blade and taking a similar amount off a nib would be disastrous.

I'm not an expert, so you might get different advice from other people. The micromesh and mylar abrasives are sold online by the pen repair people specifically for smoothing nibs.

In any event, the way I do it is to hold the pen as if I am writing and do loop-de-doos on the abrasive. Gently. And check by writing on paper frequently so you don't end up making it worse. Make sure you test the nib moving in all directions. If it is going to catch it is likely to happen when you are pushing the pen up the page. If this happens, make this motion on the abrasive to smooth it in that direction.

I am probably lazy, but I just ink the pen with a well behave ink and use that on the abrasive and on the paper. You do need to have some liquid to keep the abrasive working- some people use water and then dip in ink to test.

Hope this helps a bit.

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 2nd, 2013, 07:00 AM
Oh, thank you! Turns out I misspoke myself, it's not an Arkansas stone, it's a very smooth Austrian stone that says Franz Swaty on it. My dad used it for final smoothing of knife blades--it doesn't have any grit at all, that I can feel.

Sounds like I do want to order micromesh, though, thank you!

It's more a sideways diagonal that wants to catch on this nib, so I'll concentrate on that.

Many thanks!


Hi Cathy

I have heard of people using an Arkansas stone on a nib, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you were wanting to do major surgery on it. If you just want to smooth the nib, in my opinion, it is better to use micro-mesh or mylar sheet abrasives.

I use both and the micro-mesh pads start at 1500 grit and go up to 12000. I usually use the 4000 to 12000 range. I can't buy wet and dry abrasive in anything over 2500 grit. If your Arkansas stone is a very fine grit - one of the translucent stones - you might be able to try it, but in general Arkansas stones are used to take a fair bit of metal off a chisel or knife blade and taking a similar amount off a nib would be disastrous.

I'm not an expert, so you might get different advice from other people. The micromesh and mylar abrasives are sold online by the pen repair people specifically for smoothing nibs.

In any event, the way I do it is to hold the pen as if I am writing and do loop-de-doos on the abrasive. Gently. And check by writing on paper frequently so you don't end up making it worse. Make sure you test the nib moving in all directions. If it is going to catch it is likely to happen when you are pushing the pen up the page. If this happens, make this motion on the abrasive to smooth it in that direction.

I am probably lazy, but I just ink the pen with a well behave ink and use that on the abrasive and on the paper. You do need to have some liquid to keep the abrasive working- some people use water and then dip in ink to test.

Hope this helps a bit.

dr.grace
June 2nd, 2013, 02:23 PM
I'm not sure I understand what you are experiencing with this nib. Is this a fude style nib for Chinese characters? Are you using it upside-down or right-side up? What angle are you holding the pen with? Are you using it for Chinese characters or for western characters?

Sounds to me like the tines might be misaligned, and if so your first step is to align them, and only then if the pen doesn't write well, try to smooth the nib.

john
June 2nd, 2013, 02:48 PM
Oh, thank you! Turns out I misspoke myself, it's not an Arkansas stone, it's a very smooth Austrian stone that says Franz Swaty on it. My dad used it for final smoothing of knife blades--it doesn't have any grit at all, that I can feel.

Sounds like I do want to order micromesh, though, thank you!

It's more a sideways diagonal that wants to catch on this nib, so I'll concentrate on that.

Many thanks!


Hi Cathy

I have heard of people using an Arkansas stone on a nib, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you were wanting to do major surgery on it. If you just want to smooth the nib, in my opinion, it is better to use micro-mesh or mylar sheet abrasives.

I use both and the micro-mesh pads start at 1500 grit and go up to 12000. I usually use the 4000 to 12000 range. I can't buy wet and dry abrasive in anything over 2500 grit. If your Arkansas stone is a very fine grit - one of the translucent stones - you might be able to try it, but in general Arkansas stones are used to take a fair bit of metal off a chisel or knife blade and taking a similar amount off a nib would be disastrous.

I'm not an expert, so you might get different advice from other people. The micromesh and mylar abrasives are sold online by the pen repair people specifically for smoothing nibs.

In any event, the way I do it is to hold the pen as if I am writing and do loop-de-doos on the abrasive. Gently. And check by writing on paper frequently so you don't end up making it worse. Make sure you test the nib moving in all directions. If it is going to catch it is likely to happen when you are pushing the pen up the page. If this happens, make this motion on the abrasive to smooth it in that direction.

I am probably lazy, but I just ink the pen with a well behave ink and use that on the abrasive and on the paper. You do need to have some liquid to keep the abrasive working- some people use water and then dip in ink to test.

Hope this helps a bit.If your dad's honing stone is extra fine grade, it can be used to fine tune the nib. Just writing the " 8 " on the stone for a few times, the nib will become smooth. Be carful, writing gently. I use a Spyderco triangular ceramic stone to make the nib smooth. Sand paper can be be used too, must have the grade #2000 or above . Micro mesh is the best for the nibs.

AndyT
June 2nd, 2013, 04:35 PM
The Swaty ought to be a pretty good bet as it's a slowish cutting barber's hone for touching up razors. The grit is somewhere in the region of 10k, give or take (they vary). Micromesh is designed to have an aggressive cutting action, and as such I'm inclined to avoid it ... my preferred surface for nibs is a scrap of Müller Thuringian stone.

Incidentally, Arkansas stones aren't created equal - the hard black surgical grade and in particular the older translucent ones are extremely slow cutters and amongst the very best razor finishers available. For that reason those types are probably better avoided for nib work not because they'll grind it away but because the surface is likely to be too polished. The Müller is a nice compromise because it leaves a slightly "cloudy" finish with just a bit of texture for the ink to hold on to ... well that's my theory anyway. :)

cedargirl
June 2nd, 2013, 04:59 PM
Thanks for the insight into sharpening stones AndyT. Very helpful.

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 4th, 2013, 05:26 PM
I'm not sure I understand what you are experiencing with this nib. Is this a fude style nib for Chinese characters? Are you using it upside-down or right-side up? What angle are you holding the pen with? Are you using it for Chinese characters or for western characters?

Sounds to me like the tines might be misaligned, and if so your first step is to align them, and only then if the pen doesn't write well, try to smooth the nib.

Hi Dr. Grace...yes, a fude-style nib, but I use it for sketching. Right side up, but all different angles to get a wide range of line width. I checked the tines under my loupe, but they're fine, no misalignment, just feels scratchy in some directions.

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 4th, 2013, 05:27 PM
Oh, thank you! Turns out I misspoke myself, it's not an Arkansas stone, it's a very smooth Austrian stone that says Franz Swaty on it. My dad used it for final smoothing of knife blades--it doesn't have any grit at all, that I can feel.

Sounds like I do want to order micromesh, though, thank you!

It's more a sideways diagonal that wants to catch on this nib, so I'll concentrate on that.

Many thanks!


Hi Cathy

I have heard of people using an Arkansas stone on a nib, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you were wanting to do major surgery on it. If you just want to smooth the nib, in my opinion, it is better to use micro-mesh or mylar sheet abrasives.

I use both and the micro-mesh pads start at 1500 grit and go up to 12000. I usually use the 4000 to 12000 range. I can't buy wet and dry abrasive in anything over 2500 grit. If your Arkansas stone is a very fine grit - one of the translucent stones - you might be able to try it, but in general Arkansas stones are used to take a fair bit of metal off a chisel or knife blade and taking a similar amount off a nib would be disastrous.

I'm not an expert, so you might get different advice from other people. The micromesh and mylar abrasives are sold online by the pen repair people specifically for smoothing nibs.

In any event, the way I do it is to hold the pen as if I am writing and do loop-de-doos on the abrasive. Gently. And check by writing on paper frequently so you don't end up making it worse. Make sure you test the nib moving in all directions. If it is going to catch it is likely to happen when you are pushing the pen up the page. If this happens, make this motion on the abrasive to smooth it in that direction.

I am probably lazy, but I just ink the pen with a well behave ink and use that on the abrasive and on the paper. You do need to have some liquid to keep the abrasive working- some people use water and then dip in ink to test.

Hope this helps a bit.If your dad's honing stone is extra fine grade, it can be used to fine tune the nib. Just writing the " 8 " on the stone for a few times, the nib will become smooth. Be carful, writing gently. I use a Spyderco triangular ceramic stone to make the nib smooth. Sand paper can be be used too, must have the grade #2000 or above . Micro mesh is the best for the nibs.

I think the stone may have done it, it feels better today, after another gentle session, thanks!

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 4th, 2013, 05:28 PM
The Swaty ought to be a pretty good bet as it's a slowish cutting barber's hone for touching up razors. The grit is somewhere in the region of 10k, give or take (they vary). Micromesh is designed to have an aggressive cutting action, and as such I'm inclined to avoid it ... my preferred surface for nibs is a scrap of Müller Thuringian stone.

Incidentally, Arkansas stones aren't created equal - the hard black surgical grade and in particular the older translucent ones are extremely slow cutters and amongst the very best razor finishers available. For that reason those types are probably better avoided for nib work not because they'll grind it away but because the surface is likely to be too polished. The Müller is a nice compromise because it leaves a slightly "cloudy" finish with just a bit of texture for the ink to hold on to ... well that's my theory anyway. :)

Thanks for the info, Andy! I think I've made it enough better with my dad's stone to enjoy sketching with it.

cedargirl
June 4th, 2013, 06:31 PM
I love your sketches Kate - you should post some of them to this forum. I'd love to see how you use the fude.
Claire

Sailor Kenshin
June 5th, 2013, 07:13 AM
For future reference, four-way manicure sticks work wonders for nib-smoothing. I never had to smooth a fude nib, but I bet the buff stick works theree, too.

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 5th, 2013, 07:49 AM
For future reference, four-way manicure sticks work wonders for nib-smoothing. I never had to smooth a fude nib, but I bet the buff stick works theree, too.

Thanks, I'll watch for one of those!

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 5th, 2013, 07:49 AM
I love your sketches Kate - you should post some of them to this forum. I'd love to see how you use the fude.
Claire

Thank you, I've got an album under communities...pretty sure I have fude sketches there, but I'll look!

Yep, this is the most recent: http://fpgeeks.com/forum/album.php?albumid=45&attachmentid=3177

dr.grace
June 5th, 2013, 10:22 AM
Lovely work!

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 5th, 2013, 12:27 PM
Lovely work!

Thank you!

dr.grace
June 5th, 2013, 05:31 PM
Looks like your chop says 江诗画 (jiang1shi1 hua4), right? Unusual to see one in Chinese simplified characters.

And it looks like it reads left-to-right, instead of the old-style right-to-left. So it's a modern-language chop.

cedargirl
June 5th, 2013, 08:55 PM
I love your sketches Kate - you should post some of them to this forum. I'd love to see how you use the fude.
Claire

Thank you, I've got an album under communities...pretty sure I have fude sketches there, but I'll look!

Yep, this is the most recent: http://fpgeeks.com/forum/album.php?albumid=45&attachmentid=3177

Thanks Kate - I hadn't seen them there. They are fabulous. Nice pen too.

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 6th, 2013, 08:40 AM
Looks like your chop says 江诗画 (jiang1shi1 hua4), right? Unusual to see one in Chinese simplified characters.

And it looks like it reads left-to-right, instead of the old-style right-to-left. So it's a modern-language chop.

The square one? A friend had it made for me--on the side, it says it means Kate Johnson River of Scenery. Thanks for the input, is that translation close?

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 6th, 2013, 08:42 AM
I love your sketches Kate - you should post some of them to this forum. I'd love to see how you use the fude.
Claire

Thank you, I've got an album under communities...pretty sure I have fude sketches there, but I'll look!

Yep, this is the most recent: http://fpgeeks.com/forum/album.php?albumid=45&attachmentid=3177

Thanks Kate - I hadn't seen them there. They are fabulous. Nice pen too.

Thanks, I'll add more, when I get a chance. I've done lots with that pen.

dr.grace
June 6th, 2013, 11:26 AM
Looks like your chop says 江诗画 (jiang1shi1 hua4), right? Unusual to see one in Chinese simplified characters.

And it looks like it reads left-to-right, instead of the old-style right-to-left. So it's a modern-language chop.

The square one? A friend had it made for me--on the side, it says it means Kate Johnson River of Scenery. Thanks for the input, is that translation close?

Actually it's a clever play on words. Jiangshi is a transliteration of your name, Johnson, and hua means painting/drawing. but Jiang also means river (or the Yangtse river), and shihua means poetry and art. So it can be translated two ways: "Johnson Art" and "River of poetry and art". I guess maybe the last meaning could be stretched to "Scenic River". Overall, it's quite a nice phrase for you.

Cathy Johnson (Kate)
June 7th, 2013, 07:37 PM
Looks like your chop says 江诗画 (jiang1shi1 hua4), right? Unusual to see one in Chinese simplified characters.

And it looks like it reads left-to-right, instead of the old-style right-to-left. So it's a modern-language chop.

The square one? A friend had it made for me--on the side, it says it means Kate Johnson River of Scenery. Thanks for the input, is that translation close?

Actually it's a clever play on words. Jiangshi is a transliteration of your name, Johnson, and hua means painting/drawing. but Jiang also means river (or the Yangtse river), and shihua means poetry and art. So it can be translated two ways: "Johnson Art" and "River of poetry and art". I guess maybe the last meaning could be stretched to "Scenic River". Overall, it's quite a nice phrase for you.

That IS cool, thank you for the translation!