Polishing properly?

[penmainiac]

Does anyone know some good ways to polish mb precious resin? I don’t really mind the micro scratches, but there are some scuffs that detract from the pen. And no, I’d rather not send my pen to MB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200210/d63a128273d5104b95d7b2f59249543f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200210/f4550be2ab44b5453d651c2f08712714.jpg

[Jon Szanto]

Novus 3-Step Plastic Polish, small kits available on Amazon. Use sparingly, go easy at first, but this is not highly abrasive. #1 is a clear liquid cleaner/polish, #2 has just a bit of silica abrasive suspended in a lotion. I would try only doing 2 and 1 first; if the area still is scuffed, then try #3 - 2 - 1. I would also highly suggest you do this on a junk pen or some other object before touching an MB - not that the product is bad, but user error can be a thing.

[penmainiac]

Novus 3-Step Plastic Polish, small kits available on Amazon. Use sparingly, go easy at first, but this is not highly abrasive. #1 is a clear liquid cleaner/polish, #2 has just a bit of silica abrasive suspended in a lotion. I would try only doing 2 and 1 first; if the area still is scuffed, then try #3 - 2 - 1. I would also highly suggest you do this on a junk pen or some other object before touching an MB - not that the product is bad, but user error can be a thing.

Are there any safer ways? I will try the 3-Step polish, but there is always the chance I might screw up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jon Szanto]

Are there any safer ways? I will try the 3-Step polish, but there is always the chance I might screw up.

Sure: just buff it with a very soft cotton cloth. Buff it repeatedly like that, by hand, with nothing more than the cloth and you might have some lustre and smooth out the surface. At some point, though, you are talking about a roughed-up surface, right next to smooth, polished surfaces, that needs to get cleaned up. The three step I gave you is only about the next step from a plain cloth. I'd also just try #1, which is not abrasive at all, and I'd try it on a similar item or - barring that - maybe just on the blind cap (end of barrel) where it wouldn't be obtrusive.

See, the thing is, the reason people send stuff to professionals is because the pros know how to do this. When you do it yourself, there aren't any guarantees. But what I say above, used wisely, should cause no issues.

[Wile E Coyote]

You're not getting those scratches out with Novus. If you don't sand them first, you'll end up with shiny polished gouges.

If you do screw it up, you still have the option to send it to MB.

[FredRydr]

You're not getting those scratches out with Novus. If you don't sand them first, you'll end up with shiny polished gouges....
+ 1

[Jon Szanto]

You're not getting those scratches out with Novus. If you don't sand them first, you'll end up with shiny polished gouges.

Well, ok. Penmainiac, listen to these guys. To my eyes they didn't seem that deep, and while I might try a limited amount of work with the polish, I'd never trust myself to use micromesh on a pen this quality. If you can wait a few months, I know a fellow who does very good exterior repair work on pens, but he is taking a break for the moment.

[FredRydr]

...I'd never trust myself to use micromesh on a pen this quality....
+ 1 again. When I want a high polish on a pen I'm selling, I have a colleague with the supplies, including jeweler's rouge and a buffing wheel, do the honors. I'm not patient enough.

[penmainiac]

You're not getting those scratches out with Novus. If you don't sand them first, you'll end up with shiny polished gouges.

If you do screw it up, you still have the option to send it to MB.

What do you mean?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KBeezie]

You're not getting those scratches out with Novus. If you don't sand them first, you'll end up with shiny polished gouges.

If you do screw it up, you still have the option to send it to MB.

What do you mean?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Novus stuff is a 'light scratch' remover type of deal. If you try to tackle an area of slightly deeper scratches than the rest of the pen you'll pretty much just keep smoothing it out where the deeper part will remain as the whole thing gets polished. The only way around that is to sand down the surface area so that it's level enough to be polished evenly.

In those cases it may be best to just live with the wear until you can send it out to someone who can professionally polish it even (or fill and polish if such a thing is possible on that era's material).

The option to send to MB is usually a flat rate, as of today based on this service chart : https://www.montblanc.com/content/dam/mtb/assets/customer-service/pdf/New/Preislisten-Online-Chart-2019-WI-US.pdf

The area shown in orange would be a flat price of $100 (a level one service), and usually because a 149 is still a 149 in Montblanc's eyes, they'll just replace whatever part they feel needs replacing (which means some people have sent out vintage 149s to have it come back with a brass threaded piston instead of a plastic one changing it's weight, or having the nib replaced with a brand new one if they deemed it in need of replacing to meet their expectations). So one of the things to make sure to tell them is to not replace the original nib if you like how it is (and generally speaking that's a good part to always keep even if they end up making the whole pen modern-ish).

So yea, you can screw it up (better not to in the first place doing a DIY stuff yourself without experience), but you have that option for a bit of money (not a lot of other brands/models have that option available).

[penmainiac]

You're not getting those scratches out with Novus. If you don't sand them first, you'll end up with shiny polished gouges.

If you do screw it up, you still have the option to send it to MB.

What do you mean?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Novus stuff is a 'light scratch' remover type of deal. If you try to tackle an area of slightly deeper scratches than the rest of the pen you'll pretty much just keep smoothing it out where the deeper part will remain as the whole thing gets polished. The only way around that is to sand down the surface area so that it's level enough to be polished evenly.

In those cases it may be best to just live with the wear until you can send it out to someone who can professionally polish it even (or fill and polish if such a thing is possible on that era's material).

The option to send to MB is usually a flat rate, as of today based on this service chart : https://www.montblanc.com/content/dam/mtb/assets/customer-service/pdf/New/Preislisten-Online-Chart-2019-WI-US.pdf

The area shown in orange would be a flat price of $100 (a level one service), and usually because a 149 is still a 149 in Montblanc's eyes, they'll just replace whatever part they feel needs replacing (which means some people have sent out vintage 149s to have it come back with a brass threaded piston instead of a plastic one changing it's weight, or having the nib replaced with a brand new one if they deemed it in need of replacing to meet their expectations). So one of the things to make sure to tell them is to not replace the original nib if you like how it is (and generally speaking that's a good part to always keep even if they end up making the whole pen modern-ish).

So yea, you can screw it up (better not to in the first place doing a DIY stuff yourself without experience), but you have that option for a bit of money (not a lot of other brands/models have that option available).

I don’t think I have any deep scratches, from my view, they look relatively light, is there anyway to tell?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KBeezie]

I don’t think I have any deep scratches, from my view, they look relatively light, is there anyway to tell?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does your fingernails bump along them?

[penmainiac]

I don’t think I have any deep scratches, from my view, they look relatively light, is there anyway to tell?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does your fingernails bump along them?

Not really, they just feel kind of rough


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jon Szanto]

Not really, they just feel kind of rough

Ok, I'm going to be really blunt: you seem to be very inexperienced in all of this, and you've picked yourself a nice pen. If you really want to have that nice pen be a nice pen for a long time, don't cheap out, don't try to DIY, don't guess, don't take chances. Get someone who knows what they are doing, or MB themselves, to do the work if you want it fixed. Otherwise, just live with it as a pen that has already got some miles on it.

The worst thing is to buy something nice and make it worse when you don't know what you are doing.

[KBeezie]

Not really, they just feel kind of rough
... If you really want to have that nice pen be a nice pen for a long time, don't cheap out, don't try to DIY, don't guess, don't take chances. Get someone who knows what they are doing, or MB themselves, to do the work if you want it fixed. Otherwise, just live with it as a pen that has already got some miles on it.


This if you want it all pretty and such. You can DIY 'minor' stuff like flushing with water (the usual pen maintenance expected), but if you find you can't live with the little imperfections, have it sent for an overhaul. Montblanc themselves is pretty straight forward, there's no real discussion. A private expert/professional will likely be more accustomed to entertaining some Q&A and may be able to offer additional services (ie: tuning your nib to write to your wetness preference, or style of writing).

A properly professionally restored pen that is already craftmanship in quality, can be expected to last 50+ more years with proper care.

[Jon Szanto]

Not really, they just feel kind of rough
... If you really want to have that nice pen be a nice pen for a long time, don't cheap out, don't try to DIY, don't guess, don't take chances. Get someone who knows what they are doing, or MB themselves, to do the work if you want it fixed. Otherwise, just live with it as a pen that has already got some miles on it.


This if you want it all pretty and such

I'm only responding to the topic of this particular thread, which has to do with the cosmetic blemishes. I realize there are issues in other threads from the same own regarding this pen.

[Chuck Naill]

I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish on all of my Esterbrook restorations. I just had it for another hobby and decided to try it. It has produced a nice luster on all of the plastics including black.

[penmainiac]

Not really, they just feel kind of rough

Ok, I'm going to be really blunt: you seem to be very inexperienced in all of this, and you've picked yourself a nice pen. If you really want to have that nice pen be a nice pen for a long time, don't cheap out, don't try to DIY, don't guess, don't take chances. Get someone who knows what they are doing, or MB themselves, to do the work if you want it fixed. Otherwise, just live with it as a pen that has already got some miles on it.

The worst thing is to buy something nice and make it worse when you don't know what you are doing.

I’ve polished my 51s, and sonnets, I just haven’t tried polishing “Precious Resin” yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Deb]

There's a difference between polishing and scratch removal. The latter requires some patience and skill if you don't want flat spots or obvious depressions in barrel or cap.

[Chrissy]

If you've polished Parker 51 pens using some sort of plastic polish, then you could also carefully use that on the Mb resin. However, first you could try starting with something simple like a Sunshine cloth. I believe Ron Zorn once said that was all he used.
I use a Sunshine cloth first to see how well the plastic comes up, then consider using Novus or other plastic polishes only if there are deeper scratches.

Sending the pen to Mb would mean it would come back looking like a new pen for a very reasonable price, and it would get a full service and replacement parts included in that fee. You could always say you didn't want the feed changed if you want to keep it as original as possible.

Edit: I just spotted that the Sunshine cloth has already been discussed on your other thread about the section collar...

[penmainiac]

If you've polished Parker 51 pens using some sort of plastic polish, then you could also carefully use that on the Mb resin. However, first you could try starting with something simple like a Sunshine cloth. I believe Ron Zorn once said that was all he used.
I use a Sunshine cloth first to see how well the plastic comes up, then consider using Novus or other plastic polishes only if there are deeper scratches.

Sending the pen to Mb would mean it would come back looking like a new pen for a very reasonable price, and it would get a full service and replacement parts included in that fee. You could always say you didn't want the feed changed if you want to keep it as original as possible.

Edit: I just spotted that the Sunshine cloth has already been discussed on your other thread about the section collar...

Can I find them at jewellery supply stores?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FredRydr]

...Can I find them at jewellery supply stores?
Jewelry stores have them.

[Jon Szanto]

I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish on all of my Esterbrook restorations. I just had it for another hobby and decided to try it. It has produced a nice luster on all of the plastics including black.

Um.... I’ve used Mother’s on a number of non-pen projects, but I’d be very leery of vintage or any kind of particular plastic, as that polish has a lot more additives and chemicals in it. Things that can react with plastic, celluloid, and other materials over time. You may introduce elements that don’t necessarily show problems immediately but start to work on the body of the pen and create issues down the road. That is a metal polish and I’d restrict it to that use.

[penmainiac]

I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish on all of my Esterbrook restorations. I just had it for another hobby and decided to try it. It has produced a nice luster on all of the plastics including black.

Um.... I’ve used Mother’s on a number of non-pen projects, but I’d be very leery of vintage or any kind of particular plastic, as that polish has a lot more additives and chemicals in it. Things that can react with plastic, celluloid, and other materials over time. You may introduce elements that don’t necessarily show problems immediately but start to work on the body of the pen and create issues down the road. That is a metal polish and I’d restrict it to that use.

Should I stick with novus then?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[penmainiac]

Does anyone have an amazon link for the Sunshine polishing cloth? Preferably under $10 if possible


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jon Szanto]

Does anyone have an amazon link for the Sunshine polishing cloth? Preferably under $10 if possible

Come on, do some of the work, ok? You can google just as well as we can.

[penmainiac]

Does anyone have an amazon link for the Sunshine polishing cloth? Preferably under $10 if possible

Come on, do some of the work, ok? You can google just as well as we can.

Sorry, I was checking, but it is pretty difficult to find specific sunshine branded ones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FredRydr]

Does anyone have an amazon link for the Sunshine polishing cloth? Preferably under $10 if possible

Come on, do some of the work, ok? You can google just as well as we can.
+ 1

Anyway, scroll down: http://www.mainstreetpens.com/stuff.htm

[Jon Szanto]

Sorry, I was checking, but it is pretty difficult to find specific sunshine branded ones.

Go here (http://www.mainstreetpens.com/stuff.htm). Scroll about halfway down the page. $5.00

[Chrissy]

Before I visited Naples FL in December I bought a pack of 3 Sunshine cloths without much effort and had them delivered to the hotel in time for our arrival.
You can buy them cheaply from Ron Zorn, Amazon, ebay.

If I was you I would spend some time reading Richard Binder's information pages on his web site. You will find a wealth of important information there. :)

[amk]

Chrissy's advice is good. On some of the wrecks I get from sales and junk shops, I use micromesh, I have to. But on others I just get out a little microfibre cloth and give them a good rub. Sometimes it works like Aladdin and the lamp, and sometimes I sigh and put the pen in the queue for a really good smoothing and polish. See if the Sunshine cloth helps before you take a decision on where to go next.

[penmainiac]

Update: I bought some 3 step pen polish from a pretty reputable brand, the pen is beautifully shinning now, except for the deeper scuffs, but besides from that, the pen aesthetically looks and feels like the “Power Pen” it’s supposed to be. I haven’t appeared to screw up hopefully, and I do not regret buying this vintage, and will post some writing samples soon. I have also bought a sunshine cloth which will be arriving next week, and I hope this can do something for those scuffs.

[KBeezie]

Update: I bought some 3 step pen polish from a pretty reputable brand, the pen is beautifully shinning now, except for the deeper scuffs, but besides from that, the pen aesthetically looks and feels like the “Power Pen” it’s supposed to be. I haven’t appeared to screw up hopefully, and I do not regret buying this vintage, and will post some writing samples soon. I have also bought a sunshine cloth which will be arriving next week, and I hope this can do something for those scuffs.

If the 3-step didn't do anything for that, the sunshine cloth will not (it's much gentler than a polish set).

[penmainiac]

Update: I bought some 3 step pen polish from a pretty reputable brand, the pen is beautifully shinning now, except for the deeper scuffs, but besides from that, the pen aesthetically looks and feels like the “Power Pen” it’s supposed to be. I haven’t appeared to screw up hopefully, and I do not regret buying this vintage, and will post some writing samples soon. I have also bought a sunshine cloth which will be arriving next week, and I hope this can do something for those scuffs.

If the 3-step didn't do anything for that, the sunshine cloth will not (it's much gentler than a polish set).
Ah okay, I was unaware of that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jon Szanto]

Ah okay, I was unaware of that.

Please be careful with your vintage pen and do your research before trying stuff. This time you were lucky, but working on pens without knowing all there is to know can have bad results.

[penmainiac]

Ah okay, I was unaware of that.

Please be careful with your vintage pen and do your research before trying stuff. This time you were lucky, but working on pens without knowing all there is to know can have bad results.

I did a butt load of research, but thank you for the warning and concern, I definitely will be very careful with my pen, I only bought the polish as you yourself recommended such, and so did other more experienced collectors such as Mr.Larry on Larry’s Fountain pens. I am aware that I should probably send it to MB for official care, but I do want to keep the parts of the pen original as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KBeezie]

Ah okay, I was unaware of that.

Please be careful with your vintage pen and do your research before trying stuff. This time you were lucky, but working on pens without knowing all there is to know can have bad results.

I did a butt load of research, but thank you for the warning and concern, I definitely will be very careful with my pen, I only bought the polish as you yourself recommended such, and so did other more experienced collectors such as Mr.Larry on Larry’s Fountain pens. I am aware that I should probably send it to MB for official care, but I do want to keep the parts of the pen original as possible.




Might be best to send to a private restoration expert for tailored care (as they will usually keep all parts original, aside from consumables like the seals, etc).

I'll leave others to give recommendations as I'm out of the loop in who recently would be a good candidate to work with, especially if their geography/closeness is important.

[penmainiac]

Ah okay, I was unaware of that.

Please be careful with your vintage pen and do your research before trying stuff. This time you were lucky, but working on pens without knowing all there is to know can have bad results.

I did a butt load of research, but thank you for the warning and concern, I definitely will be very careful with my pen, I only bought the polish as you yourself recommended such, and so did other more experienced collectors such as Mr.Larry on Larry’s Fountain pens. I am aware that I should probably send it to MB for official care, but I do want to keep the parts of the pen original as possible.




Might be best to send to a private restoration expert for tailored care (as they will usually keep all parts original, aside from consumables like the seals, etc).

I'll leave others to give recommendations as I'm out of the loop in who recently would be a good candidate to work with, especially if their geography/closeness is important.

I take it back, step “0” of the polish actually has removed the scuffs.[emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FredRydr]

...I take it back, step “0” of the polish actually has removed the scuffs.

You could have a qualified specialist do it for you:

https://static.messynessychic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/misspolish.jpeg

[Jon Szanto]

I did a butt load of research, but thank you for the warning and concern, I definitely will be very careful with my pen, I only bought the polish as you yourself recommended such, and so did other more experienced collectors such as Mr.Larry on Larry’s Fountain pens. I am aware that I should probably send it to MB for official care, but I do want to keep the parts of the pen original as possible.

Fair enough! Look, I'm not meaning to jump on you. My research comment related to your comment to the effect that "well, polish didn't remove the scuffs so we'll see about the cloth"... By now you should have figured out that the cloth is easily *less* abrasive than any polish, so hardly likely to affect the scuffs. Perhaps just wishful thinking, but my point was to really understand what each of these things actually *do* before you use them on a pen. And not because I want to hammer you, but to prevent anything bad from happening, that's all.

I've heard enough stories about MB changing out parts that I concur with your method!

[penmainiac]

I did a butt load of research, but thank you for the warning and concern, I definitely will be very careful with my pen, I only bought the polish as you yourself recommended such, and so did other more experienced collectors such as Mr.Larry on Larry’s Fountain pens. I am aware that I should probably send it to MB for official care, but I do want to keep the parts of the pen original as possible.

Fair enough! Look, I'm not meaning to jump on you. My research comment related to your comment to the effect that "well, polish didn't remove the scuffs so we'll see about the cloth"... By now you should have figured out that the cloth is easily *less* abrasive than any polish, so hardly likely to affect the scuffs. Perhaps just wishful thinking, but my point was to really understand what each of these things actually *do* before you use them on a pen. And not because I want to hammer you, but to prevent anything bad from happening, that's all.

I've heard enough stories about MB changing out parts that I concur with your method!

I understand you mean well, and I thank you for that, you’re advice is much appreciated, truly. I gave in and tried the abrasive step “0” and now my 35+ yr old pen looks like it just came off the production line. I thank you for your previous recommendation, this polish works like a charm, I am now applying step “2” which will prevent it from further damage[emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[penmainiac]

...I take it back, step “0” of the polish actually has removed the scuffs.

You could have a qualified specialist do it for you:

https://static.messynessychic.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/misspolish.jpeg

They do look pretty professional and qualified... I must really use their services...where can I find a time machine?

As for anyone who told me the MB149 would likely be to big for my hands.... It’s starting to feel a little small...

[Chuck Naill]

I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish on all of my Esterbrook restorations. I just had it for another hobby and decided to try it. It has produced a nice luster on all of the plastics including black.

Um.... I’ve used Mother’s on a number of non-pen projects, but I’d be very leery of vintage or any kind of particular plastic, as that polish has a lot more additives and chemicals in it. Things that can react with plastic, celluloid, and other materials over time. You may introduce elements that don’t necessarily show problems immediately but start to work on the body of the pen and create issues down the road. That is a metal polish and I’d restrict it to that use.

What other chemical and additives are you referring? Why would something happen over time? Is your opinion based on experience or speculation? I used it again after 2500 wet dry sand paper on a highly scuffed up Parker 21 with very nice results. No residual feel or any type. If you've used Mothers and had negative outcomes, let me know what and how. Thanks, John.

[Chrissy]

Now after all of your threads since Jan 2019 about wanting to buy a Mb 149 with cash money burning a hole in your pocket at just 14 years old: Does anyone have one for sale? Are they good value for money? Are Montblanc pens value for money? I bought one but is it missing it's collar? How to polish it properly?

You've listed it as Want to Trade for a Visconti.

Please can I recommend you don't rush in and get another pen until you have held one in your hand and written with it?

[penmainiac]

Now after all of your threads since Jan 2019 about wanting to buy a Mb 149 with cash money burning a hole in your pocket at just 14 years old: Does anyone have one for sale? Are they good value for money? Are Montblanc pens value for money? I bought one but is it missing it's collar? How to polish it properly?

You've listed it as Want to Trade for a Visconti.

Please can I recommend you don't rush in and get another pen until you have held one in your hand and written with it?

I tried the visconti at the pen show.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[KBeezie]

Now after all of your threads since Jan 2019 about wanting to buy a Mb 149 with cash money burning a hole in your pocket at just 14 years old: Does anyone have one for sale? Are they good value for money? Are Montblanc pens value for money? I bought one but is it missing it's collar? How to polish it properly?

You've listed it as Want to Trade for a Visconti.

Please can I recommend you don't rush in and get another pen until you have held one in your hand and written with it?


I tried the visconti at the pen show.


The other thing to consider. People who are looking at it for a potential trade, will look back at your posting history and that may not work in your favor regarding trades.

And as far as Visconti goes, It's best to have one that has had the nib tuned professionally, rather than one out in the wild or straight from the factory. I say this in advance because I suspect that if you do go that route, you might attempt to tune the nib yourself, and it will not end well.

[Jon Szanto]

Rule #1: If you purchase a pen and are not 110% certain you are in love with it forever, do NOT go mucking about with. Anything and everything you do to alter a pen has a reasonable risk of reducing the value of the pen.

It is a shame you are learning these lessons on nice and expensive pens, but maybe this will be the end of that. If you attempt to sell or trade that MB, you need to be very clear about anything that YOU as an owner have done to the pen, even if you've only had it for a short while.