Parker 51 vacumatic restoration

[Bananabender]

Well the Parker Blue Diamond vacumatic finally arrived yesterday and I rushed into restoring it like a bull at a gate.
After a few spins through the ultrasonic and watching Grandma Pens UTubes on how to I tackled stripping it.
Not a problem except for one item , the damn cap jewel. I have tried heat , freezing to no avail so I’ll have to think about it a bit more.
What I know . The gold cap is 14c . The nib is dated 1943. The print on the barrel says ‘Parker 51 ‘ Made in USA , 4 . and after a thorough clean the pump works fine. In all my endeavours to take the cap jewel off I have lost part of the blue enamel so a bit more to do.

[Seattleite]

Nice pictures. One of the less common caps in really nice shape. It sure cleaned up. I assume you want to straighten that clip, thus the attempts to remove it. One method that may work is to tightly fold some duct tape sticky side out. Kind of makes a stickier version of a rubber pad to grip that little jewel, sometimes just makes a mess.

Bob

[Bananabender]

Nice pictures. One of the less common caps in really nice shape. It sure cleaned up. I assume you want to straighten that clip, thus the attempts to remove it. One method that may work is to tightly fold some duct tape sticky side out. Kind of makes a stickier version of a rubber pad to grip that little jewel, sometimes just makes a mess.

Bob
Thanks Bob, You are right , thats exactly why I need to get the clip off. I’ll give that a try. One of the problems is the whole section the jewel screws into turns so I am jamming a screwdriver fashioned for Conway Stewart clip removal up the barrel to stop it turning while I twist the cap jewel.
Terry

[Jon Szanto]

I cringe every time someone references a Stef vid, but it appears no harm was done this time. Clips bent outward, if you can't remove the clip, can be done as follows (with care):

- Slip an object that won't mar the cap finish under the very top of the clip (under the feathers); I have a plastic letter opener that starts thin and gets thicker, so I slide it underneath until it lightly holds up the top of the clip.
- You can then apply some downward pressure on the clip further down, bending it towards the body and reversing the bend that had pulled it away.
- Do this repeatedly in small increments and you should be able to get it to press against the cap, though I never use sprung clips fixed this way to be held in a shirt pocket.

If you can remove the clip safely and rebend it, that is the preferred method. Nice pen.

[Bananabender]

Thanks Jon , Its looking like that may be only option.
This is how the clip looked originally. Its straight now .

[FredRydr]

I do like restoration stories!

[Seattleite]

That looks like a pretty complicated "unbend".

A blunter tool may give you enough surface to allow the inner cap to have friction with both the tool, and the cap body. I have had good luck with a tapered piece of wood that I turned and fitted, using a spare inner cap as a guide. You can then hold cap, clip, and tool as a unit (don't dent the cap with the clip ball). Only thing left to spin is the jewel or the clip screw. Can still be a pain. Other people certainly have different approaches, but this woks pretty well for me.

Bob

[proteus]

Releasing P51 FP Vac / Aero Jewels & screws :

After soaking / ultra sonic et al

Apply heat ( a hair dryer is best )

Try a rod ( measured width ) inserted into the cap mechanism to trap it whilst you release the jewel / screw

Use a piece of Dycem on the jewel top.

[Ron Z]

I cringe every time someone references a Stef vid, but it appears no harm was done this time.

Amen!

[da vinci]

Bananabender, could you please describe the process you followed to restore the cap? It looks fantastic now! Thanks

[Bananabender]

Thanks everyone proteus and Seattleite . I’ll give it a soak for 24 hrs. and have another go.
Hi da vinci thanks for comment.
In short wacked it in the ultrasonic a couple of times , dabbed some polish on and rubbed it with my teeshirt.
Detailed
First step was to ascertain what gold content was . Being 14c I knew I had a tiny bit of leeway re polishing.
I have one of those cheap ultasonic cleaners.
First two washes was each of 3 mins. in plain water changing between washes. This included the whole pen before disassembling to get rid of dried ink etc.
Third wash included a few drops of dishwashing concentrate.
Rinsed cap in Naptha and dried off with hand bulb blower
Using cotton rag applied small dobs of polywatch and polished lightly in small sections Washed off in Naptha then using a sharpened pegwood and polywatch clean all grooves under a loupe. One final ultrasonic in plain water , dried off and polish with cotton rag.
I also used Polywatch on the barrel etc. very very lightly. (Not recommended on celluloid etc. but I gave it a go anyway).

I should mention I had all the gear as I used to restore old mechanical watches.

[Seattleite]

I just sounded out your name.. Ha ha. As a banana bender I think that you should keep that clip just as it is as a personal homage. Now if you were known as the bananastraightener...

Bob

[proteus]

I word on soaking any pens, if I may.

It is no good to place them in warm water and leave the water to get cold overnight.

You will have to replace the water at least 3 or 4 times at hourly intervals.

If you wish to get it right, it is a process.

( Never place a pen in pan on a stove and gently heat it for hours – the plastic will not survive it )

Never ever use any chemicals, water is just fine.

As for polishing metal finishes ( caps et al ) try Simichrome, not AUTOSOL / T CUT – these are harsh pastes designed for car chrome.
Apply very sparingly with a soft cotton bud, the results are amazing.
( No damage to the metal / GF / GP finishes )


As for Stef videos on You tube, what great entertainment.


Still have not stopped laughing………Seattleite’s comment.

Bananastraightener, now that is seriously good name.

[Jon Szanto]

Now if you were known as the bananastraightener...

Captain Viagra.

[Bananabender]

I just sounded out your name.. Ha ha. As a banana bender I think that you should keep that clip just as it is as a personal homage. Now if you were known as the bananastraightener...

Bob
WHAT!! I thought everybody knew bananas grew straight on trees and to fill in the day in the tropics we put the bend in them.
Ha, I appreciate your suggestion but it would take me 30 mins to log in .

[Bananabender]

I word on soaking any pens, if I may.

It is no good to place them in warm water and leave the water to get cold overnight.

You will have to replace the water at least 3 or 4 times at hourly intervals.

If you wish to get it right, it is a process.

( Never place a pen in pan on a stove and gently heat it for hours – the plastic will not survive it )

Never ever use any chemicals, water is just fine.

As for polishing metal finishes ( caps et al ) try Simichrome, not AUTOSOL / T CUT – these are harsh pastes designed for car chrome.
Apply very sparingly with a soft cotton bud, the results are amazing.
( No damage to the metal / GF / GP finishes )


As for Stef videos on You tube, what great entertainment.


Still have not stopped laughing………Seattleite’s comment.

Bananastraightener, now that is seriously good name.
Valuable info. Thanks.
I’ll source some simichrome as just run out of polywatch.

[Bananabender]

Now if you were known as the bananastraightener...

Captain Viagra.

Good on ya. 😱

[Bananabender]

I have tried to the best of my limited ability to unscrew the cap jewel . So I have coming a nos jewel from the States
My thinking is I can ,using a fine drill bit ,drill out the old one from the inside without damaging anything .
Possible?

[Chrissy]

I have tried to the best of my limited ability to unscrew the cap jewel . So I have coming a nos jewel from the States
My thinking is I can ,using a fine drill bit ,drill out the old one from the inside without damaging anything .
Possible?
No not easily possible as you would have to remove the cap clutch before you could get access to the bottom end of the screw. I looked in the Pen Repair manual and both 51 Aero and Vac have internal clutches. They are very hard to remove without a special tool made for that purpose.

Also, it would depend on whether you are buying a new screw to go with your new jewel since the jewel is screwed into a screw that is specially threaded to fit the jewel. Damage that thread with your drill bit and you will need a new screw.

If you absolutely have to destroy an original Parker cap jewel (tragic), because all of the available sticky/rubber gripping removers have failed, then it maybe better to slice it off from the outside then drill the stem out of the screw before fitting your new jewel.

Did you look on Pentooling for cap tools/jewel removers (https://pentooling.com/toolsparkercaps.html)? I bought a couple of different versions and they both work like a dream.

I've just spotted you are in Australia so maybe you can't get a delivery from Pentooling. Have you tried rubber gloves or a pencil eraser? Ideally you need something that is rubbery and very sticky.

[Bananabender]

I have tried to the best of my limited ability to unscrew the cap jewel . So I have coming a nos jewel from the States
My thinking is I can ,using a fine drill bit ,drill out the old one from the inside without damaging anything .
Possible?
No not easily possible as you would have to remove the cap clutch before you could get access to the bottom end of the screw. I looked in the Pen Repair manual and both 51 Aero and Vac have internal clutches. They are very hard to remove without a special tool made for that purpose.

Also, it would depend on whether you are buying a new screw to go with your new jewel since the jewel is screwed into a screw that is specially threaded to fit the jewel. Damage that thread with your drill bit and you will need a new screw.

If you absolutely have to destroy an original Parker cap jewel (tragic), because all of the available sticky/rubber gripping removers have failed, then it maybe better to slice it off from the outside then drill the stem out of the screw before fitting your new jewel.

Did you look on Pentooling for cap tools/jewel removers (https://pentooling.com/toolsparkercaps.html)? I bought a couple of different versions and they both work like a dream.

I've just spotted you are in Australia so maybe you can't get a delivery from Pentooling. Have you tried rubber gloves or a pencil eraser? Ideally you need something that is rubbery and very sticky.
Many Thanks for for your detailed reply . I’ll have to absorb it all .
As my other hobby is/was restoring old watches I have tools such as sticky ball to unscrew casebacks etc and have used other
Ways such as masking tape wound around rubber balls sticky outside. I tried an eraser , rubber base , heat gun to no avail.
It doesn’t help the clip band it screws into also turns without jamming something uo the cap.
Pentooling do deliver ,not cheap and takes a month with covid but may be the way to go.

[Chrissy]

I have tried to the best of my limited ability to unscrew the cap jewel . So I have coming a nos jewel from the States
My thinking is I can ,using a fine drill bit ,drill out the old one from the inside without damaging anything .
Possible?
No not easily possible as you would have to remove the cap clutch before you could get access to the bottom end of the screw. I looked in the Pen Repair manual and both 51 Aero and Vac have internal clutches. They are very hard to remove without a special tool made for that purpose.

Also, it would depend on whether you are buying a new screw to go with your new jewel since the jewel is screwed into a screw that is specially threaded to fit the jewel. Damage that thread with your drill bit and you will need a new screw.

If you absolutely have to destroy an original Parker cap jewel (tragic), because all of the available sticky/rubber gripping removers have failed, then it maybe better to slice it off from the outside then drill the stem out of the screw before fitting your new jewel.

Did you look on Pentooling for cap tools/jewel removers (https://pentooling.com/toolsparkercaps.html)? I bought a couple of different versions and they both work like a dream.

I've just spotted you are in Australia so maybe you can't get a delivery from Pentooling. Have you tried rubber gloves or a pencil eraser? Ideally you need something that is rubbery and very sticky.
Many Thanks for for your detailed reply . I’ll have to absorb it all .
As my other hobby is/was restoring old watches I have tools such as sticky ball to unscrew casebacks etc and have used other
Ways such as masking tape wound around rubber balls sticky outside. I tried an eraser , rubber base , heat gun to no avail.
It doesn’t help the clip band it screws into also turns without jamming something uo the cap.
Pentooling do deliver ,not cheap and takes a month with covid but may be the way to go.
If it was my pen then first I would definitely find a way of stopping the clip from turning and second maybe use some naphtha or rubbing alcohol on a cotton bud around the jewel just in case it's glued in with something stronger than shellac. Everyone here is going to advise against that and that's why I said if it was my pen. :)
Failing the naphtha or rubbing alcohol, and as it's a metal cap I might even dip the end in a pot of almost boiling water and then try it with my sticky rubber.

[Bananabender]

I’ve got Naptha so I’ll give both a try.

[Farmboy]

Boiling water and alcohol will damage the jewel.

Try soaking the end of the cap in naphtha. If you can sonicate it in naphtha.

You will need to hold the inner cap in place. The celluloid jewel screws into a usually brass retaining screw that screws into the inner cap and holds the clip in place.

[pajaro]

Boiling water and alcohol will damage the jewel.

Try soaking the end of the cap in naphtha. If you can sonicate it in naphtha.

You will need to hold the inner cap in place. The celluloid jewel screws into a usually brass retaining screw that screws into the inner cap and holds the clip in place.

If the brass screw the jewel screws into slot for screwdriver gets stripped, ican it be removed?

[proteus]

I read with great interest some of the recent replies – the methods used – chemicals.

Over the last 2 years I have removed a few P51 Aero / Vac jewels without damaging any thing.

Only ever used lukewarm water, an ultra sonic and a good hair dryer ( dry heat )

I am sure that in the future I will encounter a super glued one.
Then I will have no chance at all.

Even epoxy resins can be over come with dry heat.

Some thoughts……….

As for gripping a cap jewel – try a piece of Red Dycem, it has never failed me.

[Ron Z]

If the brass screw the jewel screws into slot for screwdriver gets stripped, can it be removed?


Use a screw extractor/Ez out. You might be able to use the clip screw again if you recut the notch with a hacksaw blade. Be careful doing it....

[FredRydr]

Use a screw extractor/Ez out....
I've searched for a miniature version. What size have you found?

[pajaro]

If the brass screw the jewel screws into slot for screwdriver gets stripped, can it be removed?


Use a screw extractor/Ez out. You might be able to use the clip screw again if you recut the notch with a hacksaw blade. Be careful doing it....


Thanks. I had thought I might have had to use a donor cap for the screw. Your tip in recutting the notch should work, though. Thanks again.

[Chrissy]

As for gripping a cap jewel – try a piece of Red Dycem, it has never failed me.
Is it available in Australia?

[proteus]

Have read the last 3 posts about removing a damaged FP cap screw.

Get the correct width screwdriver.

Coat very lightly with super glue and then wait about 15 seconds.

It will then be 75% solidified.

Offer it up to the screw and hold it there for about 2 minutes.

It will come out.

As for re slotting the screw……..they cost pennies.
Get a new one.

If you lived in the UK, I would send you one for free.

[proteus]

Chrissy

As always, an excellent question.


Is it available in Australia?

To be honest I have no idea.


If ever you wish try some Red Dycem ( I have a large roll of it ) I am sure that you know where to contact me direct.

It is free, can post tomorrow.

[Chrissy]

Chrissy

As always, an excellent question.


Is it available in Australia?

To be honest I have no idea.


If ever you wish try some Red Dycem ( I have a large roll of it ) I am sure that you know where to contact me direct.

It is free, can post tomorrow.
Thank you. PM sent. :)

[Bananabender]

Organisations that supply to handicapped, arthritic etc. sell the red and blue in various configerations down here.
Interesting you say red.
According to one organisation for those with eating disorders red dycem mats encourages eating whilst blue the opposite .

[proteus]

Mr Bananabender,

This is the product that I have mentioned.

Costs about £10 for a 1 metre roll.

They even make it in yellow…………

[Chrissy]

Mr Bananabender,

This is the product that I have mentioned.

Costs about £10 for a 1 metre roll.
That looks neat. :thumb:

[proteus]

If anyone is interested………..

Here in the UK we are still in lockdown.

Today whilst I had some time to spare, I decide to deal with 2 very awkward P51 Vacs.


Both are an adventure……

So far this year I have restored 5 others – completely, with no issues.


These were different – both had diaphragm issues – neither would release at all.

I released first one from the barrel, newish (flexible) diaphragm – but because it had been glued, about 10mm was left still struck to the inner barrel. !
After leaving it in household white spirit ( I am not a fan of using chemicals on my pens ) for an hour the glue had dissolved.

Then I was unable to release the pellet ( still in the sac ) from the filler.
So I cut the rubber off level with pellet holder.
After a seconds of moving the pellet around in its holder with a fine neddle, the small end of the rubber was released and the pellet dropped out.


The other was totally different, the diaphragm had solidified.

Was able to remove the residue of it from the nib end of the barrel.

The released filler's diaphragm is stuck solid to the barrel, will not move.

In order to save the filler, I cracked open the barrel to find that the filler was actually fused to the barrel.
I did manage to release it eventually.

[Bananabender]

Thanks Proteus , We have those rolls down here for around aud$40 metre.
Sorry to hear about lockdown . We went through that to various degrees depending where you lived.
Only known active cases currently in Australia is 2 plus those overseas travellers who are in hotel quarantine.

[proteus]

For anyone who is interested.........

Rather than just add my additional comments here, I have updated the above reply and added some photography.