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KrazyIvan
March 15th, 2012, 10:36 PM
Not really a repair but I did not know exactly where to post. This is sort of a continuation from my Bexley BX802 picture thread that was taking a different turn. I like grinding my own nibs. I have practiced quite a bit on cheap Chinese pens then I upped the stakes to my TWSBI broad nib. Now, my latest, as stated already is the Bexley. I bought a broad nib and I also bought a spare broad nib just in case. I already had a nib grinding kit from Richard Binder's site. It has some buff sticks with three grades of grit. I also purchased a brass shim for flossing the tines and some mylar mesh or micromesh as it is called. I did a few nibs with those tools but it is slow work. I ended up getting a honing stone to help speed the process. I got the idea after reading an FPN members blog and his use of honing stones to grind nibs. I got a first hand look at his work when I bought one of his creations in the form of Sheaffer Javelin. I have not got to his level of work but I am happy with what I have so far.

Here is a picture of the pen along with a scan of a writing sample showing the progress of the grind. I took it slow over the past four nights.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6801568804_e57d9622ca_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6801568804/)
Bexley BX802 - Cracked Ice (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6801568804/) by IvanRomero (http://www.flickr.com/people/ivan_romero/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6840386718_c440aac67f_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6840386718/)
Shed your ink at the alter of Grind (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6840386718/) by IvanRomero (http://www.flickr.com/people/ivan_romero/), on Flickr


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6986440169_9c71ec6c36_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6986440169/)
BexleyNibGrinProgression (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6986440169/) by IvanRomero (http://www.flickr.com/people/ivan_romero/), on Flickr

@penfancy
March 16th, 2012, 02:25 PM
Very cool! Thanks for the writing sample. Looks like even more fun the FP writing. Do you have close-ups?

KrazyIvan
March 16th, 2012, 03:02 PM
Very cool! Thanks for the writing sample. Looks like even more fun the FP writing. Do you have close-ups?

You can click the link under the pictures to go to the flickr page and see the full resolution images.

fountainpenkid
March 17th, 2012, 10:43 AM
I'll have to try the honing stone trick now! Thanks for posting!

KrazyIvan
March 17th, 2012, 11:09 AM
Just know that you will also need some buff sticks and micromesh. The stone is just to rough out tje general shape of the nib. You need the other tools to polish up the nib so it will be smooth.

Maja
March 17th, 2012, 01:19 PM
Hi KrazyIvan! Thanks for posting the pics. Just curious about the type of stone you used for the initial grind---is it a type of Arkansas...or a Japanese wetstone...or ??? I've been using a pink Arkansas stone but I'm trying to find a finer surface, so I'm toying with the idea of getting the latter.....Thanks in advance!

Pinkys.Brain
March 17th, 2012, 01:45 PM
Hi KrazyIvan! Thanks for posting the pics. Just curious about the type of stone you used for the initial grind---is it a type of Arkansas...or a Japanese wetstone...or ??? I've been using a pink Arkansas stone but I'm trying to find a finer surface, so I'm toying with the idea of getting the latter.....Thanks in advance!

I use a 1000/3000 combination Japanese wetstone. Wetstones have one problem: They wear of kinda quick, so you need another stone grind out the nicks or you'll get stuck from time to time during grinding. And with the 3000 wetstone you can be relatively precise and controlled

KrazyIvan
March 17th, 2012, 02:55 PM
Mine is an Arkansas stone. Simple one that I bought at my local big box hardware/home improvement store.

Maja
March 18th, 2012, 07:35 PM
Thanks to Pinkys.Brain and KrazyIvan for the responses. I've read that there are different types of Arkansas stone and it appears I have the kind that is among the least 'fine', so I will look into getting a Japanese wetstone as they appear to be available at my local Lee Valley Tools. Thanks for both of your replies! ;)

Pinkys.Brain
March 18th, 2012, 08:19 PM
I think a 3000 or 3000/1000 wet stone would be a good start. Do not go below a 1000 grit. And that would also be a good stone to get your knifes a nice sharpness (= entry drug for the next hobby). ^_^

jor412
March 19th, 2012, 02:24 AM
I'm also attempting to learn to grind my own nibs and using Chinese fountain pens to practice on. So far, I've been working on making them write smooth. I turned one vintage Waterman nib into a stub because it was broken to begin with so I thought of "saving" the nib. I'll now be looking into these wet stones. Thanks.

Maja
March 19th, 2012, 01:43 PM
I think a 3000 or 3000/1000 wet stone would be a good start. Do not go below a 1000 grit. And that would also be a good stone to get your knifes a nice sharpness (= entry drug for the next hobby). ^_^

Many thanks! The 1000 grit one I was looking at is this one:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=33011&cat=1,43072,43071
(a "1000x Pocket Water Stone" for $6.50).

There is also a 4000X grit one, but I have other items I can use for that grit. I am just trying to find something smoother than the pink Arkansas stone for the initial grind.

@penfancy
April 1st, 2012, 02:22 PM
307
I practiced on my Ahab yesterday. Stopped at 1 mm. I used my micro mesh from wood turning. 3200 -12000 grit.

jor412
April 2nd, 2012, 09:25 AM
307
I practiced on my Ahab yesterday. Stopped at 1 mm. I used my micro mesh from wood turning. 3200 -12000 grit.

That looks fantastic. Does the flex get in the way of the italics? I had something similar and I couldn't manage the writing.

About micro mesh - I've read here and there that there's a proper way to use micro mesh so that it lasts longer. What way might that be? :confused:

@penfancy
April 2nd, 2012, 05:45 PM
Jor412,

I was just trying to smooth it out a bit, the grind happened before I knew it. :eek:

Use micromesh wet. With ink in the pen I draw figure 8s the way I normally hold the pen. That way it's set for the way I write. I use it mainly for polishing acrylics on the lathe. Wet always. Just pat dry and store. I've been on the same set for about a year. Used on about 60 or so pens.

The italic and the flex work well together. I opened up the first two vents on the feed and it was too wet. Now it has a good flow for the larger nib.


Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

jor412
April 2nd, 2012, 05:57 PM
Jor412,

I was just trying to smooth it out a bit, the grind happened before I knew it. :eek:

Use micromesh wet. With ink in the pen I draw figure 8s the way I normally hold the pen. That way it's set for the way I write. I use it mainly for polishing acrylics on the lathe. Wet always. Just pat dry and store. I've been on the same set for about a year. Used on about 60 or so pens.

The italic and the flex work well together. I opened up the first two vents on the feed and it was too wet. Now it has a good flow for the larger nib.


Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

haha A happy accident then :) The vintage waterman I turned into a stub italic is a flex nib and I have yet to learn to write with it. I can use the italic fine but when I flex it, that's when I start having trouble.

Thanks for the micro mesh tips. I didn't want to prematurely ruin my set because I couldn't find them locally and had to order them online, which takes about 2-3 weeks to get her.

@penfancy
April 2nd, 2012, 08:04 PM
If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft in your town they will have it in stock. Back by the pen kits.

Good luck:thumbup:

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

KrazyIvan
April 2nd, 2012, 09:25 PM
Nice job penfancy!

Woody
April 3rd, 2012, 10:00 AM
Nice work. I can grind - but the polishing for me is a real pain. Just can't quite get it right. I've got to get that mirror finish and a buttery feel. Must practice some more. Tips appreciated for "smoothing" your pen. I usually end up with a flat foot.

KrazyIvan
April 3rd, 2012, 11:02 AM
Polishing is easy with the buff sticks from Richard Binder. They are nail care sticks and I have not found the right kind in my wife's stash, so I just use Richard's. If you are ending up with a flat foot, they you are not moving the nib around enough. Don't only hold it in one position or do the same movement. You need to vary the position of the nib. Doing figure "8's" at different angles on the finest grit of the buff stick just a few times is all it takes for me to get a nice shiney nib. Watch_art at FPN also posted about a jewelers rubber polishing wheel for a dremel. I am a little more apprehensive about using it but I might have to try it with a few of my cheap pens to get a feel for it.

Here is the link watch_art posted: http://www.fdjtool.com/ProductInfo/ST6026.aspx

If you go to Richard Binder's site, under Accessories and tools go to the right hand colums and under Repair Supplies I have the Micro-Mesh Buff Sticks and the Nib Smoothing Kit (Basic) because I already have a lot of practice pens. :D

Here is a link at John Mottishaw's site for reference also: http://nibs.com/Article6.html

@penfancy
April 3rd, 2012, 12:23 PM
Thanks KrazyIvan! That's a whole wealth of knowledge.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

KrazyIvan
April 7th, 2012, 05:10 PM
The real deal right here: http://youtu.be/rFKAssYpwug

Watch John Mottishaw customize and polish this Pelikan M800 Italic nib.

fncll
April 11th, 2012, 11:50 PM
I'm still trying to make sense of the nib grinding thing. Many people say to never use a stone, others say that's the only good way for the rough shaping. Then you have people like Mottishaw using a powered wheel! I'd love it if someone would do what KrazyIvan did at the beginning of this thread, but with additional notes as to exactly what they were using at each step of the process... between micromesh, stones, lapping films, buff sticks... my head is spinning!

inky
April 12th, 2012, 08:56 AM
Wow, just watched the Mottishaw video, that is amazing! Can you just imagin how quickly things can go from "looking good" to "uh-oh" on that diamond wheel?

KrazyIvan
April 12th, 2012, 09:09 AM
I'm still trying to make sense of the nib grinding thing. Many people say to never use a stone, others say that's the only good way for the rough shaping. Then you have people like Mottishaw using a powered wheel! I'd love it if someone would do what KrazyIvan did at the beginning of this thread, but with additional notes as to exactly what they were using at each step of the process... between micromesh, stones, lapping films, buff sticks... my head is spinning!

In one of the podcasts with Brian Gray, Dan and Eric did bring up the idea of posting videos. That's why I was inspired to post this thread. I am thinking of doing some tutorials but I am no expert, so it would basically be what I have put together myself from my mistakes and what works for my writing style. One thing that video dispels is the myth of using power tools to grind nibs. That was the main reason I wanted to post it.

The text that follows is not directed at anybody in particular. It is just my opinion after observation on other forums and reading threads not on this forum. The main reason, in my mind, that people discourage the use of power tools is either they are afraid of power tools or that it is easier to mess something up, or both :P . Granted, it is a lot easier to mess things up and at a lot faster pace with power tools but to me, that is a cop out. If you don't have the tools or don't want to invest the time, I don't think you should be discouraging others to try what you would not do yourself. You don't throw caution to the wind either but you are never going to learn if you don't try. That is my way of thinking and unfortunately, I only learn by doing. I can read about it just to confirm some idea I may have but my teflon brain does not retain the information. I have to do it for it to stick. I for one, feel comfortable with power tools and take necessary precautions so I don't hurt myself or others. At one point in my life I was a A.B.O. certified optician so I guess that helps a little with the grinding aspect and power tools as it pertains to nibs. This was before the fancy machines they have now to cut lenses down so I had to do a lot of stuff on ceramic grinding wheels and polishing wheels by hand. At the risk of sounding like my dad, I think I did a better job than some of the work I see coming out of these big box optical shops. I think it was a lot easier to mess up a glass, CR-39 or polycarbonate lens than it is to mess up a nib. Let me get myself back on track now. :rolleyes:

Right now, my main hang up going the powered route is I don't have a place to work or store the tools needed. I am working on it though. Hopefully, I will have at least a small area to work soon.

I don't think I will ever want to go into the nib grinding business but someone once said, "Never say never." My main concern is reports of people like Richard Binder stopping their nib tuning/grinding business. Who's going to replace them? Is that knowledge going to be passed on? It does help when I see people like Tyler Dahl go at it like he does and I admire his tenacity.

Okay, I'm stepping off my soap box now.

fncll
April 12th, 2012, 09:31 AM
In one of the podcasts with Brian Gray, Dan and Eric did bring up the idea of posting videos. That's why I was inspired to post this thread. I am thinking of doing some tutorials but I am no expert, so it would basically be what I have put together myself from my mistakes and what works for my writing style. One thing that video dispels is the myth of using power tools to grind nibs. That was the main reason I wanted to post it.

I hear you. I was just amazed when I saw Mottishaw going at the nib with a wheel after all I'd read. To be fair, a good number of people do say that power tools can be used, but that it takes skill and practice.

That said, I don't have any relevant power tools and since I am only interested in grinding nibs and repairing pens for myself, I don't know that I will make that investment. Which makes figuring out the confusing world of non-powered abrasives all the more important.

It does confuse me tht some people will say "watch out, that 8000 grit will take off more than you think" while others are starting with 2400 grit nail buffers.

The Follows
April 12th, 2012, 02:18 PM
Thanks for bringing up the topic KrazyIvan. The FPGeeks reviews and podcasts gave me more insight into the care and maintenance of my pens. After hearing them talk about the poor behavior and the adjustments they made to help, I began to look at my nibs a little closer. It's great to have sites like this to talk and get help. Here's a site that helped me understand more about what I was seeing when I looked at my nibs: http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html

Rich L
April 18th, 2012, 04:42 PM
Anyone ever try fiber optic polishing film to do flossing? I have a bunch of .3µm film and I have a reluctantly wet (meaning a "skipper") nib I want to fix and I have never done it before. I know there are other things that can contribute to this symptom but the question is about flossing and possibly very light "footing."

Whaddaya think, nibmeisters?

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 19th, 2012, 10:10 AM
Anyone ever try fiber optic polishing film to do flossing? I have a bunch of .3µm film and I have a reluctantly wet (meaning a "skipper") nib I want to fix and I have never done it before. I know there are other things that can contribute to this symptom but the question is about flossing and possibly very light "footing."

Whaddaya think, nibmeisters?

Cheers,
Rich

Have not tried it but I think it would be good for a final polish run.

If your pen writes fine with slight pressure but not with normal writing pressure it could be the tine seperation. There are two ways of adjusting tine seperation but first, do you have a loupe? Check to see that the tines have a tiny seperation at the tip. You can also hold the nib up to a light source and see if you can see light throughout the slit all the way to the tip. If not, that is your skipping problem. On a piece of paper just hold the pen like you normally would while writing and just push the pen down on the tip at about a 45 degree angle so you open the tines slightly. Do it lightly, you don't want to spring the nib. Check your work against the light and try writing, repeat until you get the desired flow. The loupe is needed to make sure your tines are aligned.

The way I open up tines is I hold the pen with my thumbs, by the nib shoulders, with the feed towards me and bend the nib at the shoulders, away from me. I use my index fingers to support the back of the nib and section. I just use light pressure and check my work after each bend. I double check tine alignment with my loupe when I'm finished with tine seperation. I am trying to upload a picture right now to better explain the process.

Here is the photo but not exactly right since I had to do it one handed. It should give you a rough idea.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/6947704084_e6a421bf13_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6947704084/)
Nib adjustments. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/6947704084/) by IvanRomero (http://www.flickr.com/people/ivan_romero/), on Flickr

If you open it too much, you will get very wet flow closing up the flow is a little more difficult to demonstrate. I'll see if I can get some photos when I get home and use my tripod.

inky
April 19th, 2012, 12:32 PM
Thank you for this KrazyIvan! I just did this on my Twsbi Micarta and it is writting SO much better now! Ever since I got it I felt the flow was a little on the dry side, now it's pretty much a 7 out of 10 which is right where I want it.

KrazyIvan
April 19th, 2012, 01:05 PM
Thank you for this KrazyIvan! I just did this on my Twsbi Micarta and it is writting SO much better now! Ever since I got it I felt the flow was a little on the dry side, now it's pretty much a 7 out of 10 which is right where I want it.

I am glad this helped. :D

Rich L
April 19th, 2012, 09:50 PM
Have not tried it but I think it would be good for a final polish run.

If your pen writes fine with slight pressure but not with normal writing pressure it could be the tine seperation. There are two ways of adjusting tine seperation but first, do you have a loupe?

I have a Leitz Wild M8 so that's plenty good loupe :)


Check to see that the tines have a tiny seperation at the tip...

There is virtually no space between the tines but it is wet with ink so I'm not surprised I can't see much. The pen will write immediately with the pen held vertically so that tells me that the foot geometry at that angle is good and ink is flowing, however, it skips initially at a more comfortable 45º angle and upon inspection with the super loupe the "45º" foot looks concave. I thought I'd just lightly brush up between the tines with that .3µm film and lightly grind the the tip at a "rounded" 45º angle to make the foot with some 2500 paper and then brush that up with some 3µm paper. I think I want it just a touch convex so the slit touches the paper with some margin of positional error.

Sound like a plan?

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 19th, 2012, 10:38 PM
*I am not a nibmeister but I have played one on television*

Seriously though, this is about the time a disclaimer should be put up. If you mess up your pen, please don't blame me or hold me responsible. You proceed at your own risk.

Leitz Wild M8 - where is the bulging eyeball smiley when you need it? Are you sure you are not the nibmeister?

It sounds like you just described "baby's bottom" if I understood you correctly. Your plan sounds good. Just go slow and do it with the pen inked so you can check your progress frequently as go.

Rich L
April 20th, 2012, 09:59 AM
*I am not a nibmeister but I have played one on television*

Seriously though, this is about the time a disclaimer should be put up. If you mess up your pen, please don't blame me or hold me responsible. You proceed at your own risk.



Hey, you can't be a Sith Lord without accountability!

:)

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 20th, 2012, 10:13 AM
Ahh, there lies the problem. [Darth Vader]Sith's are accountable only to their master.[/Darth Vader] ;)

jor412
April 20th, 2012, 11:18 AM
The main reason, in my mind, that people discourage the use of power tools is either they are afraid of power tools or that it is easier to mess something up, or both :P . Granted, it is a lot easier to mess things up and at a lot faster pace with power tools but to me, that is a cop out. If you don't have the tools or don't want to invest the time, I don't think you should be discouraging others to try what you would not do yourself. You don't throw caution to the wind either but you are never going to learn if you don't try. That is my way of thinking and unfortunately, I only learn by doing.

I don't have power tools and I doubt I'll ever go that route because I don't think I have the hands for them, but I like the thought behind this. I've read a lot of warnings about all kinds of FP repairs and tweaks. I suppose it's done in good faith and I just take it that way. But they're my pens so if I break them while trying to fix them or grind the nibs or whatever, then I suffer the consequences. At the very least, I will have learned a (painful) lesson that I'm more likely not to forget.

jor412
April 20th, 2012, 11:20 AM
I'm still trying to make sense of the nib grinding thing. Many people say to never use a stone, others say that's the only good way for the rough shaping. Then you have people like Mottishaw using a powered wheel! I'd love it if someone would do what KrazyIvan did at the beginning of this thread, but with additional notes as to exactly what they were using at each step of the process... between micromesh, stones, lapping films, buff sticks... my head is spinning!

Me too. Confused and so, trying out different things with no consistent results.

KrazyIvan
April 20th, 2012, 01:10 PM
I don't have power tools and I doubt I'll ever go that route because I don't think I have the hands for them, but I like the thought behind this. I've read a lot of warnings about all kinds of FP repairs and tweaks. I suppose it's done in good faith and I just take it that way. But they're my pens so if I break them while trying to fix them or grind the nibs or whatever, then I suffer the consequences. At the very least, I will have learned a (painful) lesson that I'm more likely not to forget.

That is why I have been doing a lot of practicing with Chinese pens. If I mess one up (which I have not, yet) I am not concerned about the cost. I still have not done anything with gold nibs. The "priciest" nib I have worked on is my bold TWSBI nib. Maybe the Bexley 802 if you consider the cost of the whole pen. Even then, I already had a replacement nib on hand just in case.

manoeuver
April 20th, 2012, 02:51 PM
wreck 30 Chinese pens. then tweak or fix a hundred nicer pens. you'll leave em all behind eventually.

Rich L
April 20th, 2012, 04:52 PM
Straight from the Wild ...

Yeah, I think it's a little baby butt problem. Attached pictures of the problem child - IM from the factory. The end view shows a minuscule misalignment that virtually any pressure will correct but the slight concave bottom I think is what's causing some skipping and non-starting. I really want the bottom flat if not a tad convex which will allow the ink in the slit no alternative but to contact the paper. The amount to be removed is very slight that I think some easy swipes on 2500 at my angle of writing with a little "convex wiggle" will give me the foot I need. I'll polish up with 3µm and then 1µm paper.

Sith dude - not asking advice this time :) but I hope y'all enjoy the pictures.

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 20th, 2012, 05:31 PM
Rich, I dont think you needed the advice to begin with. You doing well enough on your own.:cool:

Rich L
April 20th, 2012, 05:47 PM
Lordly compliments are always appreciated - even from the dark side. :) Any, it never hurts to socialize an approach especially if you've never tried it before. Techniques for this are very similar to what I've done in other areas.

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 20th, 2012, 07:11 PM
So when can we expect a damascus steel nib from you? :D

@penfancy
April 20th, 2012, 07:24 PM
Those are very detailed! How did you get that close up?

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2

KrazyIvan
April 20th, 2012, 07:45 PM
Those are very detailed! How did you get that close up?

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2

One page back, he is using a microscope: Leitz (Leica) Wild M8 and a stereo one at that.

Now that I am on my computer and can see the images better, it does not look like baby's bottom. I know you don't need help with it but that is an odd pit in that nib. That is stock? I would not be happy with that tipping if it where on my pen.

Rich L
April 20th, 2012, 09:00 PM
I am never beyond help!

If you're looking at the "bottom" picture I think you're referring to that "gash" looking thing. I believe that is an ink shadow. I'll clean it up and retake the photo also at a better angle. On the top view there is a little hole thing right at the slip but I'm not worried about that.

That's a stock nib - brand new.

Let me clean it up.

Damascus nib?! LOL

Cheers,
Rich

Rich L
April 20th, 2012, 10:03 PM
Here's a closer close-up of the underside of the nib. Other than removing a tiny bit to flatten it at the writing angle, possibly the tines are too tight at that angle. Again, the nib writes immediately when using the very tip (vertical). I've done nothing to it so far. I will have to do before and after pics.

Also a picture of the Leica Wild M8. The snaky things are fiber optic lighting. The camera attaches to the black tube sticking up on the right side.

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 20th, 2012, 10:39 PM
Wow, that microscope is SWEET! Good luck with your nib adjustments/mods!

Rich L
April 20th, 2012, 11:10 PM
Well, I bit the bullet and I am so happy it's fixed. I used Norton Black Ice 2500 grit paper (silicon dioxide) for light material removal by just using the weight of the pen against it and using back and forth motions in the direction of the slit with a little rock side to side to keep away any edges I might produce. I essentially did this at my writing angle plus and minus about 20º. For the finish I used a 3M 3µm grit and all grinding was done with the nib in the pen and with a little water on the paper. The 3M pink stuff is a very light fiber back material with little spots of 3µm aluminum oxide scattered on one side - very porous. I spread the tines a little (oh, so little) using Ivan's technique of pressing on the shoulders of the nib.

Pictures before and after and the papers I used.

Cheers,
Rich

KrazyIvan
April 21st, 2012, 10:59 AM
The difference in the finish looks very pronounced! That buffing really looks like it smoothed things up. I love your detailed photos!

KrazyIvan
April 23rd, 2012, 04:05 PM
Someone dug up a thread on FPN that has some good information. Of interest, Richard Binder's reply about how he used to use a dremel for his nib grinding. http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4543-nib-grinding-tools-question/page__pid__2322741#entry2322741

Pinkys.Brain
May 4th, 2012, 05:51 AM
A little question: Would you say that paying about 30$ is a good price for getting a scratchy pen fixed by a professional. I am thinking about having my Montblanc 32 (gold nib of a MB No.32) fixed as it is a bit scratchy. I got the pen via ebay for about 25$ so I am not really sure whether it is worth it or not...(at the moment I am in favor of putting the hand into the hands of a professional).

Any advice?

KrazyIvan
May 4th, 2012, 09:00 AM
If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, it is a no brainer. The pen is going for roughly $150 so even if you spend $50 on nib tuning, you are still ahead of the curve.

Pinkys.Brain
May 4th, 2012, 09:29 AM
The pen never goes for more than 80$ on German ebay (even for mint condition pens)...the American prices are a bit too steep.

KrazyIvan
May 4th, 2012, 12:23 PM
The pen never goes for more than 80$ on German ebay (even for mint condition pens)...the American prices are a bit too steep.

do you have a loupe? And please don't tell me you have a stereoscope. :p

Pinkys.Brain
May 4th, 2012, 09:31 PM
I left my loupe in Germany when I went to Japan. I would also have to by new grinding materials. But I think that even with a loop I would not be able to fix the nib. It seems like one tine is a bit longer than the other one =(

KrazyIvan
May 4th, 2012, 09:57 PM
Ouch. Hard to say without pictures but it might be an oblique nib? My Pelikan 140 has the same thing but it's not scratchy. I received a quote from Greg Minuskin for $130 but that included making it a cursive italic. In the end I am leaving it as is. A 10x or 20x loupe from eBay should be less than $10 shipped.

Pinkys.Brain
May 4th, 2012, 10:07 PM
It is a fine nib of an No.34 because I did not like the oblique nib the No.32 came with.

So I guess I will ask the professional to tune it. Since his shop is also I café I will also enjoy some good coffee...

And thanks for you commments, KrazyIvan

KrazyIvan
May 19th, 2012, 09:29 PM
Here is a link to a very good article that goes into detail on the techniques for grinding. I don't know how I never came across it before.

http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html

goldiesdad
May 19th, 2012, 10:28 PM
First time I actually saw this being done ... Cool ...

goldiesdad
May 28th, 2012, 05:10 PM
Great idea about a series of how-to's ... I just got into pen collecting and see this is the next progessive step ...

I too have a bunch of pens I can "play with" ... now to get an order in and begin...

Thanks Ivan ...

Chi Town
June 16th, 2012, 11:57 AM
I use my Fountain pens as much as I can both in writing to Pen-Pals, some as far away as the UK and some here in the USA and I also am working on Grinding / smoothing my nibs. I have a set aside group of practice pens if I need to use those. The problem with dipping in to use those pens is that I find that I typically ruin those pens vs the good pens that I grind / smooth on I don't ruin those ones. As For some reason I am very much more careful with nose ones. I guess that with the practice pens I take more chances on the grinding / smoothing than I would with the other nibs that I don't take chances with.

KrazyIvan
July 3rd, 2012, 02:35 PM
My Dremel came in today. Am I ready to ruin some nibs really, really fast? :crazy_pilot:

Sailor Kenshin
July 3rd, 2012, 04:56 PM
I heart this thread.

So far I've only used manicure tools, but I got one italic cheapie writing well enough. Maybe I will dare to Dremel one day.

KrazyIvan
July 6th, 2012, 04:00 PM
Did you guys see watch_art's videos posted at FPN?

http://youtu.be/GrlFvzBBf6s

and

http://youtu.be/5R6yK9Qf87s

Sailor Kenshin
July 6th, 2012, 06:57 PM
Pretty kewl. Thanks for the heads-up.

Maja
July 7th, 2012, 01:40 AM
Here is a link to a very good article that goes into detail on the techniques for grinding. I don't know how I never came across it before.

http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html

I don't know either---check out post # 27 in your thread here :p

Another good article (not previously mentioned in this thread ;)) is the one by Wim G. (wimg on FPN) here:
http://www.pentrace.net/penbase/Data_Returns/full_article.asp?id=403
It's mostly about nib smoothing but there are some good tips on what tools to use for working on nibs....

KrazyIvan
July 7th, 2012, 10:10 AM
I'm getting old. :( I think I know what it is. I see these links while on mobile but prefer to read when I'm at my computer then I forget... What was I saying?

snedwos
July 7th, 2012, 10:39 AM
GUYS GUYS GUYS! I have just ground my first stub! It's not very good, and the pen does write a little worse than it did to start with, but it's really not bad at all.

I recently acquired a Sheaffer No Nonsense pen from my grandfather's desk. It had a twisted tip but still wrote well enough. I have been using it unmodified as an eyedropper for a week or so. No leaks!

This afternoon, while bored, I found some sand paper. (I don't recommend sand paper, by the way). After almost giving up on it (it was tearing the paper in my expensive notebook) I discovered I had finally removed all of the original tipping, but was left with two uneven tines. After a bit of work, and moving onto a nail file, I got a rather nice .9ish(?) italic, which, if held at **juuuust** teh right angle produces some beautiful line variation. Any other angle and it's still liable to shred the page. But for a first attempt on a cheap pen that was already in poor shape, I'm very pleased!

Moral of the story: don't use sandpaper, however fine. Also, buy your own expensive nail files to ruin. Wife's/mother's/fairy godmother's -- best not to use.

KrazyIvan
July 7th, 2012, 12:38 PM
You need to read the article Maja pointed out I forgot about. It will help quite a bit. I use sand paper but just sparingly not for the full grind. I need to find my dremel bits. Congratulations on your first grind! :D

Maja
July 7th, 2012, 02:34 PM
I'm getting old. :( I think I know what it is. I see these links while on mobile but prefer to read when I'm at my computer then I forget... What was I saying?

:jester:
Hee hee

@ snedwos: congrats! You've picked the right type of nib to work on for your first effort---a cheap steel nib that is readily available! After the nib grinding/smoothing, make sure that the tines are in proper alignment with each other; if they aren't, just use your fingernails to do so.
There is a very good YouTube video by Stephen Brown (he of FPGeeks radio guest fame)
on Nib Smoothing here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5NImdKrE1k

melissa59
July 10th, 2012, 01:24 AM
GUYS GUYS GUYS! I have just ground my first stub! It's not very good, and the pen does write a little worse than it did to start with, but it's really not bad at all.

I'm sorry, but I have to tell you that this had me laughing until my stomach hurt!

I think it was very smart of you to try out your first grind on a poor nib, instead of trying to make a stub from a perfectly good nib. Through this process, you've learned not only what you should do but what you should not do.

I don't see myself ever grinding a nib. But oh how I would love a Dremel for other fun crafty things!

Sailor Kenshin
July 10th, 2012, 06:57 AM
Ohai...

Never occurred to me until recently to use my Dremel. My first 'stub' was done with nail clippers.

snedwos
July 10th, 2012, 01:26 PM
I'm sorry, but I have to tell you that this had me laughing until my stomach hurt!

I think it was very smart of you to try out your first grind on a poor nib, instead of trying to make a stub from a perfectly good nib. Through this process, you've learned not only what you should do but what you should not do.

I don't see myself ever grinding a nib. But oh how I would love a Dremel for other fun crafty things!

Thank you!

I've got used to it now, but it is a heck of a lot wetter, and bleeds even on my fanciest paper :( In fact, the best performance is on some rather cheapring binder refills I've got, but it deosn't so much ghost as completely haunt the page.

KrazyIvan
July 12th, 2012, 05:35 PM
Thank you!

I've got used to it now, but it is a heck of a lot wetter, and bleeds even on my fanciest paper :( In fact, the best performance is on some rather cheapring binder refills I've got, but it deosn't so much ghost as completely haunt the page.

Try closing up the tines a little bit to decrease flow.

KrazyIvan
July 12th, 2012, 05:38 PM
I bought a Levenger True Writer for cheap on eBay and it came with a factory M nib. These are Schmidt nib units, so very easy to source replacements. I decided that an M nib was not good enough and it needed to be slimmed and trimmed a bit. :) Also, since it is a M nib, line variation is going to be a little bit less pronounced but it is visible. :)

Before and after writing samples with full resolution scans on my Flickr page (just click the image, then click on the little magnifying glass on the top left):

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8148/7558776334_29d822cf95_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/7558776334/)
LevengerTW_BG (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/7558776334/) by IvanRomero (http://www.flickr.com/people/ivan_romero/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8006/7558776218_c5ecf94748_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/7558776218/)
LevengerTW_AG (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivan_romero/7558776218/) by IvanRomero (http://www.flickr.com/people/ivan_romero/), on Flickr

snedwos
July 14th, 2012, 05:45 AM
Vast improvement. I think it looked a little too broad and wet before the grind, I think the thin strokes of the stub make the writing a lot more attractive.