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Pilot Murex - I had done some minor repair on this pen for the original owner but have since then acquired it for my own collection.
For the repair I did , a full disassembly was not necessary. I pulled the cap off yesterday and the section came loose with it. This is what I saw. Is this normally adhered to the inside of the section like an inner cap in a pen cap? I don't seem to be finding pictures of such a part over the feed as of yet.Attachment 52320
It looks like the section "cover" is a sleeve that needs to be glued into position over the section. I once saw something similar when I removed the cap from a Parker 50 (Falcon) and my section sleeve was stuck down inside the cap.
I agree. I am wondering what they used to glue it on. I was thinking sac shellac might work. Also, I do feel the entire front end needs to be disassembled as the notches on the black plastic section over the feed aren't lining up with the notches in the metal ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissy
I don't think they would have used shellac as it wouldn't have been strong enough. On the other hand it appears to have come apart so maybe they did? You were fortunate that your section only came loose after you uncapped it and wasn't stuck inside the cap.
If it was my pen and I could get it all lined up precisely enough I would use epoxy to ensure it stayed there.
I'd remove the feed before gluing... you really don't want epoxy to get in the wrong places! I only own a Myu and I've never taken the feed out of mine, so I can't offer any advice based on experience, but I would say that correct alignment of the section/nib sleeve with the plastic core *and* the feed is going to be crucial to correct funtion when the pen is reassembled. Cleaning up any adhesive squeeze-out is probably going to be a severe PITA as well...
btw, I'm with Chrissy on epoxy, I'd go for marine grade as well, since it will resist softening from constant exposure to ink better than 5 minute/hardware store epoxy does. The JB Weld brand (NOT actual steel filled JB Weld!) is available in a waterproof version in consumer sized packaging, it'll be as good as commercial marine grade epoxy for your purposes and you won't need to buy a quart of it :D
After using some common sense I have the feed and all separated. I'll get the sleeve back into the section and go from there.
BUT, what is the partial ring piece technically called? It was on the feed end of the threaded "coupler" the feed was screwed onto. It doesn't seem like part of the ring is missing so I am guessing this is the full piece.
I am amazed it didn't come off and disappear into the pen part triangle. The Saint of tiny pen parts must be on my side today.z
EDIT- Got it....
Attachment 52329
Quote:
Originally Posted by RayCornett
That ring is the final friction fit for the cap retention system, it fits in tiny cutouts in the base of the nib/section... another thing that must align correctly for everything to go back together and function as intended, though this one should be easy, since it's just kept in place by the coupler ring spacer (at least if it's like the Myu equivalent part).
Possible helpful images:
http://www.tomattarashinu.com/2013/0...-disassembled/ This shows a complete Myu teardown, while not identical, they share a lot in common...
http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/fo...ew-caps/page-3 scroll down a few posts to see a Murex disassembled.
I finally figured it all out with some common sense. lol
When gluing the sleeve onto the section there should not be that much adhesive to make any excess squeeze out. A decent adhesive will need only a few dots or a very thin covering to keep the sleeve in position. It would be easy enough to ensure no adhesive could go anywhere near the feed, but there was enough to keep the sleeve in place.
Any luck?
This is a widespread situation, I think.
Generally, the cap has to be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the spring that's inside, so there are a few places on it that can come off. While the cap probably won't be completely torn off, it still may not perform very well. You need to match the sealant from Seal With Ease to the material of the cap so that there is the best compatibility to fix it. In some cases, if done correctly, this isn't a problem, but the lid can be very dirty, making it much more likely for it to come off and fall off due to spring pressure.