Doing my first pen re-sacking
Couple of questions regard pen re sacking;
Which type of sacks work the best latex or silicone?
Do you measure the sack according to the barrel length, then cut off the excess?
What is recommended for bringing back luster to a pen?
What basic tools are needed to re-sack?
Lastly any other advice?
Thanks in advance.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
southpaw52
Couple of questions regard pen re sacking;
Which type of sacks work the best latex or silicone?
Do you measure the sack according to the barrel length, then cut off the excess?
What is recommended for bringing back luster to a pen?
What basic tools are needed to re-sack?
Lastly any other advice?
Thanks in advance.
What kind of pen are you re-saccing? There's a standard list of sizes....and the kind of pen will help determine latex or silicone.
Length can be trimmed as needed. It's the girth you worry about. Will it fit inside the barrel and can the J-bar activate easily? That kind of thing.
Richard Binder's site is a good starting point.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Sailor Kenshin
Richard Binder's site is a good starting point.
Specifically, read over all the information on his page on How To Replace a Pen Sac.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
I am replacing Esterbrook, and Waterman Crusader.
Thanks for the help
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
southpaw52
I am replacing Esterbrook, and Waterman Crusader.
Thanks for the help
Do the Estie first, as they are the easiest pens to work on; be careful with the section on the Crusader, which can be a bit more difficult to remove. Both can be done with latex sacs - I reserve the silicone for pens where the celluloid colors will be darkened by the off-gassing of the latex sacs, and I doubt either pen has that issue.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
I started with an Esterbrook sac and it was very easy to do. I've only ever used latex sacs on Esties, a Swan and a few Sheaffer's. I watched several You Tube videos before I started, and it definitely gets easier after the first one.
Be careful with the heat that you use to help you to free the barrel. Don't get it too hot.
You will need to cut the sac to the correct length before you glue it on with shellac.
Some will recommend a sac spreader for helping to get the sac on. I don't have one.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Jon Szanto
Do the Estie first, as they are the easiest pens to work on; be careful with the section on the Crusader, which can be a bit more difficult to remove. Both can be done with latex sacs - I reserve the silicone for pens where the celluloid colors will be darkened by the off-gassing of the latex sacs, and I doubt either pen has that issue.
Thanks for the reminder - I just got a Sheaffer Jade Senior needing a new sac, and that's one where I should probably go for silicone. (The colour is very green! The cap has some other issues but it is functional).
I sometimes put the sac on without shellacking it first to make sure it all fits right (more often when it is one where a couple of different sac sizes seem like they could be right).
I use my cross-locking tweezers to help put them on at times - they're closed when you do nothing and open when squeezed and can be used as sac spreaders, though they don't hold it open as roundly as some might.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Deb
Thanks Deb, that's very helpful. Of special interest was the dusting of the sac with talc. I watched a TV show the other day where a very well respected restorer replaced a sac in a Wyvern and he did not show this step, although he mentions it in his book.
I was watching the show with my OH as this pen was being restored and remember saying "don't forget the talc!" as he appeared to replace the sacced section without adding talc to the sac.
Here is the post where I linked to the TV show in question.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Thank you Chrissie. I shall watch that episode with interest!
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
The latex sac is generally a better choice than silicone, with the exception of pens that tend to discolor when the latex sac decomposes. The jade celluloid Sheaffer is indeed a good candidate for silicone. When you do a silicone re-sac, be sure you have a silicone sac and not a PVC sac. David Nishimura's website and videos explain the difference.
My experience is that the re-sac on the lever filler is one of the easier parts. The harder parts include getting the nib/feed properly set and tuned, and properly replacing the J-bar. If you're lucky though you just need to do the re-sac.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
I've just watched the episode. No talc! Shocking!
I pronounce it "Wivern" whereas Laurence pronounces the Y.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ray-VIgo
The latex sac is generally a better choice than silicone, with the exception of pens that tend to discolor when the latex sac decomposes.
I agree with that.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Should the J bar be replaced also?
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
southpaw52
Should the J bar be replaced also?
Only if the lever is loose/rattling when the pen is used, or the old J-bar broke and fell out. If the lever is tight and the old bar is intact, keep it in the pen.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
I have a Waterman Skywriter, and Crusader what size sac for these pens?
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
Quote:
Originally Posted by
southpaw52
I have a Waterman Skywriter, and Crusader what size sac for these pens?
Go to Richard Binder's site, he has a page that lists many pens and gives their sac sizes along with guidlines for general purpose sac size estimation. It is either on the page on re-saccing pens or a separate page itself.
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking
I found this thread for the Waterman Skywriter and it also mentions the Crusader
Re: Doing my first pen re-sacking