Re: Three stub nib questions
Re: Three stub nib questions
It's not that difficult to make a B nib into a stub nib. Read everything experts like Richard Binder say about how to do it, watch as many YouTube videos on grinding nibs as you can, and try to do it on very cheap steel nibs first.
There is a thread on here that dneal posted about it, but very sadly it has now lost it's pictures. So you wanna grind yer own nibs
The basic idea is that you need to turn a ball of tipping into an almost flat piece of tipping with a slightly angled edge on the end that you write on. Plus slightly rounded corners so it isn't as sharp as an italic nib.
Re: Three stub nib questions
The Plumix nib has no tipping, but they're fun and reliable. I only have one genuine stub (going by Richard's definition): a factory italic in a Pelikan 120, and it's WONDERFUL.
One of these days I want to try grinding an architect point.
Re: Three stub nib questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Sailor Kenshin
The Plumix nib has no tipping, but they're fun and reliable. I only have one genuine stub (going by Richard's definition): a factory italic in a Pelikan 120, and it's WONDERFUL.
One of these days I want to try grinding an architect point.
An architect point is more difficult simply because many nibs don't have much depth of tipping from the nib tip along the nib length. You need to imagine an italic nib held vertical then turned around by 90 degrees and stuck onto the end of your nib. Instead of writing on say an EF nib with ball of tipping, that tipping needs to be an extended line of tipping. That way you will get narrow vertical strokes (from the EF tip width) and wide horizontal strokes (from the length of the line of tipping)