Pens and Pen Holder

New to the forum but a fountain pen user for a few years. Since this is a picture forum I thought I would share a photo or two. The top photo are my pens in a pen holder I made out of Dalbergia nigra (Brazilian Rosewood pre 1992). The holes are lined with felt. I had the piece of BRW but it was not usable for my needs (a small business on the side of my regular job) as it had a few splits so I decided to make it into a pen holder. The pens from left to right: 1. Levenger True Writer, "Ivory" (resin) with rose gold trim. Was able to buy this when it was on special. I like rose gold and the contrast to the "ivory" is nice. A nice pen and smooth nib but a little light so I added a little weight to the end of the barrel. 2. Cross Radiance. Just bought this from the bay place (can we say the place that has the letter E and then a body of water?). I cleaned up yesterday and am using it today. A nice pen, smooth nice weight/dimensions and feel. 3. Sheaffer Prelude. Again, the attraction to rose gold although it is not as rose as I would like it to be. Not a bad pen and a good feel. Had to do a little work to get the nib smooth. 4. Waterman Allure. My original pen from several years ago. A nice pen for the money but even after a few minutes on micromesh 8000 it is not a smooth as I would like it to be. 5. Baoer 388. This is an odd-ball. I bought two, the blue and a red. The red was a complete dog--it leaked from the feeder. The blue, on the other hand has been great. If it had a screw cap it would be better than great. Keeping space #6 opened for pen #6 which is TBD.

As to the converter holder. I made it out of a piece of Dalbergia retusa (Cocobolo). A nice way to hold spare converters.

As an underlying theme: 1. I prefer to use the scientific name for woods as too many woods are called one thing yet are not even relatives. A good example is mahogany. There are so many woods being passed off as "mahogany" which are not even in the same genus. 2. I prefer to tweak my nibs with micromesh. I start on 4000 then 6000 then 8000. I have sheets of micromesh which i use for woodworking and polishing watch cases and bands (I am also into mechanical watches).

To make your nibs smoother you would need to use 12,000 grit micro mesh but I find that the smoothing side of a nib smoothing board is better for a last polishing smoothness. Especially if the nib smoothing board has been well used. :)
I have all grit sizes of micro mesh but very rarely use less than 12,000 grit on a nib tip.

Thank you Chrissy. Looks like I have a cyber road trip to find a smoothing board. Any suggestions to fill the 6th hole?

Here's two first-rate instructional videos on nib smoothing by SBRE Brown.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5NImdKrE1k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_bNRrPk5MY

thank you sgphoto. good videos. after watching I am glad I am been very conservative with my polishing and have use well worn micromesh. I did watch a couple of videos on nib tuning before tackling the jobs and fortunately I have a good loupe and good nibs to begin with. looks like 12000 is a must.

There are several sources for the nib board or nib buff stick. Indy-Pen-Dance sells them but there are other sources. Be careful to not make any flat spots on your nib tines. :)