So you wanna grind yer own nibs...

[dneal]

The usual disclaimer: Anything you try is at your own risk. I accept no responsibility for what you do or don't do to your nibs.

Waski_the-squirrel did a quick review on the JetPens Chibi, and I mentioned that they're great pens for practicing adjustment, alignment and grinding because they're so inexpensive. He asked for a post about grinding.

This is that post...

Part 1 - The Fundamentals

Most of this is going to be very similar to Ludwig Tan's excellent article on nib-grinding (Google is your friend). Some of his article is a little confusing, so I hope this expounds on what he started. This covers the fundamentals, and in subsequent posts I'll add information about variations, aesthetics, benefits and drawbacks, Dremels, "advanced" techniques etc... with pictures of purchased (and my own) grinds. Right now we're just going to get down and dirty with the basics.

I usually add a couple of Chibi's to my cart when I order something from Jet Pens, but also usually give them away. I have two on hand, and both are extra fine nibs and unsuitable for grinding. I do have a box of Pilot Varsities on hand, and for $2/pen they're great for experimenting with. The advantage of the Chibi is that the nib can be removed, which isn't really the case with the Varsity.

The Varsity does have a blob of a ball for a tip though, and it's easy to see your progress as you go along (although it's hard to photograph your progress when you don't have a macro lens... sorry for that).




Tools used:

- Loupe
- Rag/paper towel to wipe debris
- Shim to clean the slit
- Micromesh buff stick or lapping film
- Lansky sharpening kit. Get one that has the LS1000 ultra-fine, LS600 fine, and LS280 medium stones.



I use the medium stone for initial shaping. Some don't like to go that coarse. The advantage is that it goes quicker, and impatience can lead to mistakes (iridium is much harder than you think). The disadvantage is that you can booger up a nib in a second with one wrong move. This stone is only to get you close, and remove bulk quickly. If you go too far, you'll have scratches/grooves/gouges that you can't get out without making the grind too thin. But hey, it's just a $2 Varsity. Experiment!

I start with the roughest stone, move to the next coarse, and when I'm almost there I use the finest. It is fine enough to make a smooth enough surface to write with, but there will be some feedback. You'll need to use a buff stick or lapping film to get it buttery smooth. If you start with the finest stone, it will take you forever to make any progress. Again, experiment and see what happens!

BEFORE YOU GRIND, MAKE SURE YOUR TINES ARE ALIGNED!!! DO NOT GRIND WITH MISALIGNED TINES!!!

Richard Binder and others have great articles discussing (and showing) nib alignment. The Chibi is a great pen to play with and learn. Misalign them on purpose, and see if you can get them correct again. Once you figure this out you will never need to buy a "tuned" nib again. You'll be able to do it yourself! Check alignment periodically as you grind.

First cut:

Ludwig Tan does the bottom first, but I like to do the top first (for reasons that will be more clear in subsequent posts). Hold the stone stable, place nib, and work it back and forth. Keep your hand and wrist relatively rigid, and use your elbow as the pivot. Try to keep the same plane and angle (especially when you stop and check your progress). Be careful not to scratch the top of the actual nib (it will matter when you're doing a "nice" nib). Don't apply a lot of pressure. Let the stone do the work. Use water as a lubricant (although the ink in the pen does that for you in this case), and DO NOT use the oil that comes with the kit.



This is what we're going for:



And this is what we got. Note that the stamped steel nib is very thin. With a "real" nib, you would grind it closer to flush - but it would make the tipping to thin with a Varsity - so I left this (and subsequent grinds) a little "thick". It also shows what we're doing a little better.



2nd Cut: Next comes the bottom. Same idea as what we did with the top. Be careful not to grind away the feed (a drawback to this method, and grinding with the nib/feed unit intact).



Here's what we're going for:



And here's what we got:



3rd Cut: This is what's going to give us line variation. Hold the nib perpendicular to the stone, and drag it straight back. Lift and repeat. I usually lean it slightly in the direction of the top of the nib, to reduce chatter.





Here's what we're going for:



And here's what we got:



If you quit now, you will have the most crisp italic possible. It also will be almost impossible to write with and the horizontal stroke will be so thin as to essentially not be seen. We need to round that out a little...

(Continued in next post)

[dneal]

Cut 4: Here's where practice really becomes important. You're trying to grind a radius on the sharpest edge, and not make a facet. Start with a low angle, raising it as you draw the nib along the stone. Don't use the coarsest stone for this part (or only do 1 or 2 strokes if you do use it). Only do a couple of strokes with the next finest stone. The majority of this work will be with the finest stone.





Here's what we're going for:



And here's what we got:



My camera isn't good enough to show a side view clearly, so pay attention to the shiny end of the nib. That's the writing surface.
As noted above, the more you perform this stroke, the more you'll move from "crisp italic" to "stub". The difference is the thickness of the horizontal stroke (when writing). You can check your progress with an inked pen (like the Varsity) or dip the nib in some water, write on a pad of paper and see what your horizontal looks like.

Smoothing: Once you get a line thickness you like, it's time to start smoothing your nib. With the finest stone, you're going to repeat the motion used for Cut 4 - BUT you're going to rotate the pen. Your goal is to knock off the corners and sharp edges. You don't want to draw more strokes flat on the writing surface (unless you want a wider horizontal line). Again, constantly change your angle through the stroke so that you do not grind a bunch of facets. Once you get the hard edges knocked off, you can move to lapping film or a buff stick to smooth the nib.

You might find that the nib is toothy, or too crisp, no matter how much you smooth. Before you go crazy drawing figure 8's, smooth the inner tines. They have a 90 degree angle that cuts into or scratches on the paper. I'll show you later how to do this with a loose nib, and it's a challenge when the nib is mounted (or fixed in place!).

With some lapping film (or a buff stick if that's all you have), turn the nib at a slight angle and apply a little pressure. The tines will spread, and the sharp angle of the inner tine will be exposed to the abrasive. Draw it along the abrasive, varying the angle as you do (raising the back of the pen). Repeat with the other tine. This only takes one or two strokes. Too much and you risk creating baby's bottom.




As I noted above, how much you increase size of the writing surface increases the horizontal line width (going from crisp italic to stub). I stopped periodically and made a quick writing sample so you can see the effect.



Here's the "finished" product, and the pen is now essentially a stub. Again, note the shiny portion of the tip. That's the smooth writing surface.

[dneal]

Part 2 - The Dremel

Part 1 focused on the fundamentals, using simple sharpening stones. In all honesty, I wouldn’t use those for a nib that has any value; and I recommend that you don’t either. Play with your Pilot Varsities and Jet Pens Chibi’s and figure out what happens when you cut different angles. There are a few problems using just stones: It’s difficult to get consistent angles, and very difficult to reduce the nib size (as Ludwig Tan shows) because of the 90 degree angle of the stone edge. Nibs are curved from the wings to the tip. You need a round grinding implement to keep that shape. Grinding wheels are round - sharpening stones are not. Time to move on to a grinding wheel!

The Dremel gets a bad rap in some circles. I suspect that’s because a lot of nibs have been ruined when using one of these. The pro’s use bench grinders, but what is a bench grinder really? It’s a motor and a shaft that spins a stone. Hmmm. A Dremel is a motor and a shaft that spins a stone. One is bolted to a bench, and one is held in hand (or secured to something).

The main difference is speed regulation. Anybody who has used a multi-speed Dremel knows how finicky they are, and how quick they are to “run away”. A bench grinder is usually a fixed speed. So here’s a tip: Don’t buy that $100 Dremel with 10 speeds and 10,000 RPM capability. Just get the cheap 2-speed jobber for $30 (battery or corded). Use the slower of the two, and it’s a snap.

The other main difference is the stone used. You’ve seen those nibmeister or factory nib-shaping videos. Yeah, those are nice. I’d like one. But let’s be real, who is going to spend that kind of money on a dedicated tool if they’re just a hobbyist doing a few nibs for themselves? Not me!

So we’re pretty much stuck with the Dremel. That’s no reason to fret though. You can cut a grind every bit as good as a pro, with practice (and I’ll show you a little later).

Oh, don’t do this with a Varsity or any inked pen unless you want to fling ink everywhere…

Tools I use:



Everything is the same as with the sharpening stone tutorial, except I’m using a Dremel. The 2-speed battery version is pictured, and the attachments from left to right are:

1. Large stone (Dremel brand)
2. Medium stone (Dremel brand)
3. Small stone (Dremel brand)
4. Polishing “stone” (Proxxon brand)
5. Polishing “stone” (Proxxon brand)
6. Polishing Wheel (Proxxon brand)
7. Polishing compound (Proxxon brand)

Notes: The different sized stones are for if you must grind with the nib and feed in place. The large stone has a diameter that’s too large to get the right angle at the bottom side of the nib, where the smaller stones will “fit”. The Proxxon polishing “stones” are “rubber” (soft polymer) with abrasives embedded. If there’s a difference between them (other than color), I can’t tell. Note the type of polishing wheel. Don’t use the compressed felt ones.

Ok, with all of that out of the way, we’ll start with the do’s and don’ts. In these pictures, visualize the stone spinning counter clockwise. Picture a horizontal line dissecting the middle of the stone. You want to keep the nib above that line, and the angle such that the nib is perpendicular (at most) or pointing slightly “up”. Otherwise it will snag/catch and you’ll get a wickedly bent nib at worst or it will fling the nib out of your hand at best.

DON’T HOLD LIKE THIS



Now let’s get to cutting. The process is just like using the stones. Top, bottom, end. Checking alignment is more important and needs to be done more often. Again, don’t apply a lot of pressure and let the tool do the work.

Top Grind




Bottom Grind




End Grind




Now we’re going to do a little variation (optional). When I add pictures of other finished grinds in the next post, it’ll make a little more sense. If you’ve bought a pre-ground nib from a nibmeister, this will look somewhat familiar.



Finishing / Polishing

All our rough cuts are done now, so we’ll switch to the Polishing “stone”. The process above is repeated, and the smoothing step noted with the sharpening stones is added. Remember the fundamentals you practiced and apply them here. The Dremel is doing the work instead of your arm. The nib angle needs to change gradually so that you create a radius and not facets. You need to also rotate the nib and work the sides to get a smooth writer. You can also polish your top grind if you want. Do the inside tines on some lapping film or buff stick, and not with the Dremel. You can test the smoothness on a pad of paper as you go, just holding the nib in your fingers.



Final Polishing (optional)

You can do the rest of the smoothing / polishing on a buff stick or lapping film, but it’s really easy to just use a polishing wheel. As you get more experience, you can use the faster setting on the Dremel, but start with the slower one for now. Turn the Dremel on and touch the edge of the polishing wheel on the compound. You’ll see it coat the wheel, and there won’t be separate layers anymore (they’ll all merge together). Then lightly work that spinning wheel on all surfaces of the nib. The same angles and dangers of bent or flying nibs applies to this process too. Don’t apply a lot of pressure and let the tool do the work. If you have a plated nib, this can wear off the plating… you’ve been warned.

[dneal]

Part 3 - Size reduction, samples and wrapping this up...

The last thing I need to address is reducing the size. Like Ludwig Tan's article shows, it's essentially a matter of reducing the width of the tip. I like the round stone instead of a sharpening stone, because it is easier to keep a curve from the tip to the wing.





Here are some grinds I paid to have done. One is a standard stub and the others are cursive italics. Note the differences in angles chosen, and experiment with your own grinding and see what happens.

I won't say who did what. If you want to see what a Phil Phlibbergister grind looks like, pay your money and have him grind it.

Basic stub



Cursive italics from 3 different professional nib grinders.

[Sailor Kenshin]

This is AWESOME. Thanks!

[kbrede]

This is great. I was just going to the store to try to find some cheap fountain pens to practice on.
Kent

[Mesu]

Excellent guide. Thanks.

My nib grinding was more like

[Woodnut]

Fabulous! Especially with the photos!

[I like mango pudding]

Yes I've essentially done this to a couple if my nibs and they are quite crispy with certain inks and rather smooth with other inks. Paper also makes a big difference too.

[Waski_the_Squirrel]

Thank-you so much for these posts! You're making me really want to get to work right now. I'm going to force myself to wait until summer when I actually have free time, but I have bookmarked this thread so that I can follow along and experiment. At least with the Chibi, if I mess up, I'm not out much cash!

[dneal]

You're welcome. I'm working on the Dremel tutorial. I haven't quite figured out how to take pictures while doing it though... Not sure part 2 will be so picture intense.

[necrotic]

Thanks much!

[Jon Szanto]

That’s no reason to fret though. You can cut a grind every bit as good as a pro, with practice (and I’ll show you a little later).

I'd really love for you to expand upon that statement - just what is it, precisely, that makes you comfortable saying that anyone can grind every bit as good as a pro? How many nibs have you had ground by how many pros? How many hours have you spent grinding, and how many nibs, compared to the pros? How many pen shows have you been to and had the pros grind the nib right in front of you?

It is certainly one thing to offer caveats and warnings and then let people learn about all this, and have fun. Making a statement like "You Too Can Grind Nibs Like A Pro!!!" is a bit of a further walk. Sorry.

[dneal]

That’s no reason to fret though. You can cut a grind every bit as good as a pro, with practice (and I’ll show you a little later).

I'd really love for you to expand upon that statement - just what is it, precisely, that makes you comfortable saying that anyone can grind every bit as good as a pro? How many nibs have you had ground by how many pros? How many hours have you spent grinding, and how many nibs, compared to the pros? How many pen shows have you been to and had the pros grind the nib right in front of you?

It is certainly one thing to offer caveats and warnings and then let people learn about all this, and have fun. Making a statement like "You Too Can Grind Nibs Like A Pro!!!" is a bit of a further walk. Sorry.

It's a good question, although I really would prefer if this thread doesn't devolve into an "internet argument" (and you seem to be leaning in that direction with your last sentence).

I suppose that there are categories of skills, some being attainable through enough practice and some requiring innate talent. You're a drummer, so let's use that as an example. Regardless of the amount of practice, some (and I daresay most) people will never obtain the level of a Neil Peart, Stewart Copeland, Buddy Rich, or pick your favorite "great". I enjoy playing guitar, and I know that I'll never be a Jimi Hendrix or John Williams - regardless of how much I practice. Other endeavors that relate to sports or the arts probably fall in this category.

I don't think this is the case with nib grinding though. I see this more along the lines of: "how to sharpen a knife", "how to tape and mud drywall", "how to set the points on an old V8", "how to adjust a bicycle derailleur" or any of these type of skills. Is replacing an ink sac or lubricating a piston reserved for the "professionals"? Are those skills that are unobtainable to mere mortals? Certainly there will be some people who are "all thumbs" and just won't be able to do any of those things (or grind a nib), but I suspect that they're a minority. Also in the minority are those that naturally excel. On average though, I think that this is an obtainable skill for most people. I'm mechanically inclined, and maybe I'm in a "natural talent" category and just don't know it; but I highly doubt it.

It seems that a lot of people don't know where to start, or are afraid of starting on something they find interesting or are curious to learn. That's what this thread is for, and I intentionally have chosen positive and encouraging wording. I do think that many people can develop proficiency on par with "professionals". Note that word does not refer specifically (or only) to the 4 or so "famous" nibmeisters. Lots of people grind nibs for money ("lots" being a relative term to this rather obscure hobby). I think fountain pen users should buy those nibs (I still do). But there's no need to revere them or think that only they are capable of grinding a nice nib. Even they make "mistakes".

Here is a purchased grind where the feed was "nicked" with the grinder.



These two are "less than perfect". One has an off angle on one of the facets, and the other isn't uniform.



Those "flaws" don't bother me, and all are wonderful writers - but I paid for those. Another nib, although flawless aesthetically, wouldn't write worth a dang. A little adjustment and work with a buff stick now has it writing wonderfully as well.

Here are nibs I've ground:

M300 (F) to Cursive Italic


Conway Stewart 58 (B) to medium Cursive Italic


Kaweco 883 LE (M) to fine Cursive Italic

[ainterne]

You're welcome. I'm working on the Dremel tutorial. I haven't quite figured out how to take pictures while doing it though... Not sure part 2 will be so picture intense.

Suggestion...., this is what I use....it's about $25 on Amazon.....saves a lot of time for me.

I agree with your statement even the pro's make mistakes... One of the most common talked about, butchered one of my nibs..and must have bounced the feed onto the grinder as the feed had a miniscule crack in it.... His excuses were so lame I lost all respect for him in a heartbeat. I let him do it to save me the time... What a mistake that was...!!!...

The only thing that you perhaps might want to share is to remind people to use protective glasses when using the dremel or any high speed tools.... I saw a pen maker advertize polishing a nib in their factory where the operative didn't bother wearing eye protection... It was one of the most disgraceful advertisements I have seen. It's one thing ruining a cheap nib that you practice with, but it's quite another to try and get a replacement eye...

I think your mail is terrific and thank you for putting all the effort in to share....I know it takes time. I practiced using cheap nibs from eBay... This kind of thing "Judd's LOT of 30", there is a Japanese guy on there that will send you 50 (seconds) nibs for free that come off his production line. He sent me a bunch and I used them to practice burnishing and tine straightening.

I don't think you said anything about heat generated when grinding.....is that something that should be considered when considering how ebonite reacts to heat? e.g. not much and it bends. It must be preferable to take the nib out when using the dremel, correct?

Again, thanks for sharing.....

[Murfie]

Just like to thank you for this very well presented post. I've had more than twenty nibs ground by various high profile professional "nibmeisters", and a large proportion came back in an unacceptable condition - scratchy, excessive feedback, poor ink flow, tipping material totally removed, etc. I taught myself to grind nibs from Ludwig Tan's documentation so that I could make those nibs write better. At the outset I used very cheap Chinese pens as the practice material. Once I acquired a Dremel and a piece of Arkansas stone, the task became easier and my skills have reached the point where I now do ALL of my own and my partner's (Migo984) regrinding and smoothing. I only grind and tune our nibs and wouldn't dream of touching someone else's pen.

I have a passion for stubs and cursive italics. Many modern pen brands do not offer such nib options with their product. Being able to grind my own nibs allows me to redress this. Well done!

[dneal]

Suggestion...., this is what I use....it's about $25 on Amazon.....saves a lot of time for me.

Looks like a perfect solution. I actually prefer doing it freehand, because I need to use magnifying glasses and I can, well, rest my hands on my gut... It helps with stability and keeps the work in focus. That action shot you posted looks like me with my first go with a Dremel! lol...

The only thing that you perhaps might want to share is to remind people to use protective glasses when using the dremel or any high speed tools.... I saw a pen maker advertize polishing a nib in their factory where the operative didn't bother wearing eye protection... It was one of the most disgraceful advertisements I have seen. It's one thing ruining a cheap nib that you practice with, but it's quite another to try and get a replacement eye...

You are exactly right.

I think your mail is terrific and thank you for putting all the effort in to share....I know it takes time. I practiced using cheap nibs from eBay... This kind of thing "Judd's LOT of 30", there is a Japanese guy on there that will send you 50 (seconds) nibs for free that come off his production line. He sent me a bunch and I used them to practice burnishing and tine straightening.

Thanks. I think the take-away here is that practice on cheap nibs isn't very expensive and they aren't hard to obtain.

I don't think you said anything about heat generated when grinding.....is that something that should be considered when considering how ebonite reacts to heat? e.g. not much and it bends. It must be preferable to take the nib out when using the dremel, correct?

I like to use the slow speed on the Dremel, and don't apply a lot of pressure. I don't experience nibs even getting noticeably warm. I like to remove them mainly because it makes the bottom grind easier, and there's no way to booger up the feed if it isn't present. I haven't seen an ebonite feed that isn't friction fit (i.e.: can't be knocked out), so it's probably a moot point; but you do raise a good question (and potential caution) about nibs that can't really be removed, excessive speed or pressure, and feed material (even plastic can deform or melt).

[dneal]

Just like to thank you for this very well presented post. I've had more than twenty nibs ground by various high profile professional "nibmeisters", and a large proportion came back in an unacceptable condition - scratchy, excessive feedback, poor ink flow, tipping material totally removed, etc. I taught myself to grind nibs from Ludwig Tan's documentation so that I could make those nibs write better. At the outset I used very cheap Chinese pens as the practice material. Once I acquired a Dremel and a piece of Arkansas stone, the task became easier and my skills have reached the point where I now do ALL of my own and my partner's (Migo984) regrinding and smoothing. I only grind and tune our nibs and wouldn't dream of touching someone else's pen.

I have a passion for stubs and cursive italics. Many modern pen brands do not offer such nib options with their product. Being able to grind my own nibs allows me to redress this. Well done!

I couldn't have said it any better, and I feel exactly the same way. Thanks!

[Jon Szanto]

It's a good question, although I really would prefer if this thread doesn't devolve into an "internet argument" (and you seem to be leaning in that direction with your last sentence).

Not my intention at all, and you've answered quite well. I think it is fair to have someone at least raise the issue, for the following reason: on that other fountain pen forum, with a billion posts, there is a literal ton of misinformation and concepts and tactics that could lead to pen damage. All it takes is an over-enthusiastic newb to quickly read something and cause harm. While you offered ample warnings, you also - at least on first blush - gave the impression that there wasn't anything that a pro could do that you couldn't. I'm not certain of that, but you've covered the material very nicely.

I suppose I've been lucky: every one of the nib grinds I've had done by known professionals have met or exceeded my expectations. I hope that your posts help people who haven't been so fortunate, or simply want the enjoyment of doing this.

[dneal]

Jon - Thanks and I did intend to give you the benefit of the doubt with the bulk of my post. I do think it was a fair question. Someday perhaps we'll meet and you can try out some of my grinds and tell me what you think. I'd be willing to bet you a cold drink (or glass of single malt) that you couldn't tell which ones were mine and which ones were from the pros.

I agree wholeheartedly about the ton of information out there. Some of it makes me cringe, and I'm sure some of my "techniques" do the same to others. Someone will be along to tell us all what I'm doing is absolutely wrong, and why what they do is absolutely "right". I just see it as different routes to the same destination.

I don't do flex or needlepoints, and although I could probably figure it out given time (and a lot of trial and error); that's just not my thing. That (and retipping) is what makes "nibmeisters" truly nibmeisters - not simply cutting a stub or italic. I'm sure they all have their share of dissatisfied customers. Too wet, too dry, too much feedback, too smooth... but a lot of that is personal taste.

I will comment on M. Masuyama though. Although I've tweaked flow and smoothness to my preferences, I've found that his grinds are amazingly perfect - which isn't surprising given his background and experience. That level of finish is inspiring and something I shoot for.