Not true. Polishing refers to any process that produces a smooth or glossy surface; such processes can include flame-polishing, solvent polishing, vapor polishing, burnishing, and waxing, for example. None of those processes is a form of sanding. Sanding refers to moving an abrasive affixed to, or embedded in, a substrate across a surface, and depending on the grit of the abrasive, it may or not have a polishing effect.
That description applies to abrasive polishing approaches, but not to the other methods.The idea behind polishing is to correct deep scratches by creating new (but less severe) scratches.
Untrue. For abrasive-based polishes, the grains of abrasive will have the desired material removal action regardless of the generation of, or lack of, heat. I'd be interested to learn where you acquired this belief. Some products designed for application using a powered buffer are in semi-solid form (stick with embedded abrasive particles) that may soften due to the heat of the wheel when applied to the buffer, but such an abrasive polish does not become "activated" by heat when buffing of a plastic pen is occurring.1.) Most polishes are activated by heat. Too little heat and you're wasting your time. Too much heat and you'll literally burn the surface you're working on. After a while, you'll be able to see the point when a polish actually breaks down and begins to work.
This would seem to contradict your earlier claim that "Polishing" and "Sanding" are nearly sy[n]onymous terms."2.) Most polishes you find in general crafts stores or automotive parts stores are nothing more than filler polishes. They're very user friendly and hard to use....because they don't actually correct scratches. They just mask them.
Perhaps, but it's not a very large exponent. I suggest experimenting to find a process that is comfortable and gives the desired results. I prefer hand-polishing.While polishes can be done by hand, it takes exponentially longer than using power tools.
Why? Celluloid is a plastic.Make sure you're using polishes that are intended for the media/material you're working on. Rubber/Celluloid is a media I don't have much experience with. I'm inclined to say that a polish meant for plastics would not be a good choice for celluloid.
I'd say the obvious difference is that pens' exterior surfaces are made of hard rubber or plastic (if not metal). They're not painted.Of note: The bulk of my knowledge is from working on cars and specifically paint correction and aluminum polishing. The process is very similar when working on pens with the obvious difference being a much smaller surface area to work on.
--Daniel
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