Leaking Mont Blanc 146 - DIY fix :-)

[Monz]

I bought a used Mont Blanc 146 in cosmetically excellent condition from a dealer on eBay. A few months later, I noticed ink on my fingers every time I used the pen. Closer inspection revealed ink on the section of the pen. A quick internet search showed that this was quite a common malady with this pen. The problem was either a crack in the section or the pen needed a service with re-application of internal sealant. A Mont Blanc service in UK is about 90 pounds sterling. So, I decided to have a go myself. Then I came across the next problem. Taking a Mont Blanc apart was not that straightforward; one needed special tools... one tool to remove the nib unit and one for the piston. These tools were available from eBay but they were not cheap. So, I decided to bodge a tool to remove the nib unit. It was easy really. I just took an old fork and bent the spikes as shown in the attached photograph. The ends of the spike were filed down to fit the slots in the nib unit. The fork tool worked first time. There was a tiny dried up glob of sealant on the threads of the nib unit and this would explain why ink was leaking through and ending up on the section. I applied silicone grease on to the thread and barrel of the nib unit and put it all back together. Problem solved! :-)

I am thinking of reshaping the other two spikes of the fork into a piston tool... so I have both nib and piston tools in one unit!

NDF_4991MB146_fork.jpg

[Mags]

I watched as someone pulled the nib out without the tool to remove the nib like you did. I think this is the much better way to go.

[Marsilius]

Make sure to use only your best forks for this!

[pensplash]

When ever i start to think MB nib removal I will for evermore say to myself, "Fork It"!
Thank You,
Dana

[Monz]

The Janus Fork

Here is the final "two-faced" Mont Blanc tool: one pair of spikes opens the nib unit, the other pair opens the piston.

[Cepasaccus]

aka The Janus Tool!

[pajaro]

Let us know if that silicone grease seals the leak. It's not really a sealant, but who knows?

It's gutsy to take a pricey pen apart like that.

[Monz]

Let us know if that silicone grease seals the leak. It's not really a sealant, but who knows?

It's gutsy to take a pricey pen apart like that.

The silicone grease worked like a charm... no ink on the section at all since I did the DIY fix. In fact, it has really made the pen a joy to use. The pen was originally bought in 1986 and has a lovely springy nib which I now fully appreciate. The silicone grease that I used is this stuff:

http://www.vintagepensacsandparts.co...silicon_grease

[Monz]

UPDATE: after initial success with silicone grease on the threads, the leakage of the ink recurred which was annoying. By chance I mentioned this problem to a friend of mine who is a dermatologist (and also a Mont Blanc user with a similar leakage problem!). He delved into his bag and produced a pot of Hydromol ointment (which is normally used for eczema, psoriasis and other skin conditions). It contains Cetomacrogol emulsifying wax, yellow soft paraffin and liquid paraffin. He assured me that this ointment would do the job and was quite chemically inert. I decided to give it a go and applied a light coating of this ointment to the threads connecting the nib unit to the barrel of my MB 146. It seems to work.... no leakage for about 2 weeks now, including a few ink refills over that period.

I'm not sure about the long term consequences of applying Hydromol to plastic/ resin. So I am also experimenting with a home made beewswax/ castor oil concoction.

DSCF1144b by Monz, on Flickr

DSCF1145b by Monz, on Flickr

[Monz]

To make the beeswax/castor oil sealant, I obtained 100% beeswax pellets and a bottle of Castor Oil from Amazon. Then I placed 5g of beeswax and 15g of castor oil (for the 1:3 mix) into a metal container. The container was then heated in a double-boiler until the wax melted. The mixture was then stirred until it was homogenous and then allowed to cool. I haven't used the beeswax sealant yet... will report back when I do.

DSCF1135A by Monz, on Flickr

DSCF1137B by Monz, on Flickr

DSCF1138B by Monz, on Flickr

DSCF1140B by Monz, on Flickr

DSCF1141B by Monz, on Flickr

DSCF1145b by Monz, on Flickr

[penwash]

I missed this thread back in January.

+1 for self-made tools. I notice that people who end up being good at repairs or restoration always have their own homemade tools. And after restoring vintage pens for a while now, I find myself doing this also.

+1 for updating us with the situation. Most posts that claimed success in DIY fixing were not followed up with what happened later on.

+1 for your DIY sealant formula

Only one question remains... where are you going to find another leaky MB 146 to test your beeswax sealant?

[Monz]

I missed this thread back in January.

+1 for self-made tools. I notice that people who end up being good at repairs or restoration always have their own homemade tools. And after restoring vintage pens for a while now, I find myself doing this also.

+1 for updating us with the situation. Most posts that claimed success in DIY fixing were not followed up with what happened later on.

+1 for your DIY sealant formula

Only one question remains... where are you going to find another leaky MB 146 to test your beeswax sealant?

Thanks Will. I promised my dermatologist friend that I'd try to fix the leak in his MB 146 once I am confident that one of the above sealant does the job. I have a feeling that the beeswax/castor oil sealant should work well.... might try that on his pen.

The thing I don't understand is why we need to use sealant at all with Mont Blancs. On Pelikans with pistons, you just screw in the nib without any sealant and there is no leak.

[Flounder]

Monz, this is an excellent addition to your thread. I have several attempts to use beeswax alone to seal a Parker 65 shell (a Parker service manual ambiguously advises to use 'wax') and never could get it completely ink tight. Pressing my pinky against the join would give a tell-tale stain.

Parker 65 Section pure beeswax.jpg

I think Stef's P65 video illustrates the problem - about the 8min 25 mark. As soon as the wax is removed from the heat, it dries to a clump on his paintbrush.



I had a strong feeling that beeswax needs to be cut with something to make it less of a crumbly solid at room temperature. At the time, I was getting fed up with the wax and made a batch of rosin sealant so heavy on the castor oil that it was essentially just a very malleable gum with next to no stickiness. When I was satisfied that it worked - and would safely release - on garbage shallow loose ballpoint threads, I took the plunge and the 65 stopped staining my pinky when pressed against the join.

Since then, I've read of DIY men's pomade recipes (of all things) loosening beeswax by melting & mixing in castor oil, with essentials oil added for smelling nice. I think you've hit the nail on the head! From what I've read on FPN ( I'm not an MB guy) MB have moved away from this design and started using a gasket instead of sealant.

[Flounder]

I've had a go melting beeswax (big lumps) and mixing in castor oil. In a castor -oil heavy ratio, it doesn't crumble apart quite so readily.