Horror Stories About Fountain Pens??

[Anne]

The new sac had just dried on the nipple of my newest Esterbrook J (a pretty green one). I had to scrape the old sac out of the barrel and replace the J-bar. In the process, I must have made some dust inside the barrel. Some heat was needed to insert the section into the barrel. A spark must have come out of the hair dryer and flown inside the barrel. The barrel caught fire and went up in smoke in about a second -- just enough time for me to drop it without getting burned. Luckily, I was performing this operation over the kitchen sink. I was left with a J-bar, a lever, and the metal stud from the end. Oh yes, and a cylindrical pile of grey ash.

How Awful!!! I wouldn't have even imagined it happening!?! I am afraid of heat guns, but I have used hairdryers and thought it was Relatively safe ( never thought a fire could occur in any circumstance - but I know Nothing ). And most of my tinkering is done at the kitchen table - Yikes!

I currently do not own a pen with a lever and J-bar, but I will consider this a forewarning. I only have Parkers ( Vac.s, Duofold, 51's ), so I don't think I will have to heat them After I insert a new sac, but boy I will be more careful now with a hairdryer.

Thank You so much for sharing your experience, but I feel so bad about the pen. Will you look into purchasing another?

[Paddler]

The new sac had just dried on the nipple of my newest Esterbrook J (a pretty green one). I had to scrape the old sac out of the barrel and replace the J-bar. In the process, I must have made some dust inside the barrel. Some heat was needed to insert the section into the barrel. A spark must have come out of the hair dryer and flown inside the barrel. The barrel caught fire and went up in smoke in about a second -- just enough time for me to drop it without getting burned. Luckily, I was performing this operation over the kitchen sink. I was left with a J-bar, a lever, and the metal stud from the end. Oh yes, and a cylindrical pile of grey ash.

How Awful!!! I wouldn't have even imagined it happening!?! I am afraid of heat guns, but I have used hairdryers and thought it was Relatively safe ( never thought a fire could occur in any circumstance - but I know Nothing ). And most of my tinkering is done at the kitchen table - Yikes!

I currently do not own a pen with a lever and J-bar, but I will consider this a forewarning. I only have Parkers ( Vac.s, Duofold, 51's ), so I don't think I will have to heat them After I insert a new sac, but boy I will be more careful now with a hairdryer.

Thank You so much for sharing your experience, but I feel so bad about the pen. Will you look into purchasing another?

I only buy pens at flea markets and then only if the price is extremely low, like if I think their next destination will be the landfill. I already have a baker's dozen of Esterbrook Js and do not actively seek any more of them.

It is not the lever or filling innards that pose the fire hazard; it is the composition of the pen. Many old pens, like the Esterbrook J are made of nitrocellulose (AKA guncotton} or cellulose acetate which is only slightly less flammable. Always keep an old pen away from an open flame. If you have to heat one, do so where you can turn loose of it in a hurry.

[Anne]

The new sac had just dried on the nipple of my newest Esterbrook J (a pretty green one). I had to scrape the old sac out of the barrel and replace the J-bar. In the process, I must have made some dust inside the barrel. Some heat was needed to insert the section into the barrel. A spark must have come out of the hair dryer and flown inside the barrel. The barrel caught fire and went up in smoke in about a second -- just enough time for me to drop it without getting burned. Luckily, I was performing this operation over the kitchen sink. I was left with a J-bar, a lever, and the metal stud from the end. Oh yes, and a cylindrical pile of grey ash.

How Awful!!! I wouldn't have even imagined it happening!?! I am afraid of heat guns, but I have used hairdryers and thought it was Relatively safe ( never thought a fire could occur in any circumstance - but I know Nothing ). And most of my tinkering is done at the kitchen table - Yikes!

I currently do not own a pen with a lever and J-bar, but I will consider this a forewarning. I only have Parkers ( Vac.s, Duofold, 51's ), so I don't think I will have to heat them After I insert a new sac, but boy I will be more careful now with a hairdryer.

Thank You so much for sharing your experience, but I feel so bad about the pen. Will you look into purchasing another?

I only buy pens at flea markets and then only if the price is extremely low, like if I think their next destination will be the landfill. I already have a baker's dozen of Esterbrook Js and do not actively seek any more of them.

It is not the lever or filling innards that pose the fire hazard; it is the composition of the pen. Many old pens, like the Esterbrook J are made of nitrocellulose (AKA guncotton} or cellulose acetate which is only slightly less flammable. Always keep an old pen away from an open flame. If you have to heat one, do so where you can turn loose of it in a hurry.

Point well taken, I just feel bad that you had to go through it. I have bought almost all of my pens off Ebay and so, they all need to be restored. Some I want to try myself and some fixes I have enough sense to know I am just not going to be able to do.

[Paddler]

The new sac had just dried on the nipple of my newest Esterbrook J (a pretty green one). I had to scrape the old sac out of the barrel and replace the J-bar. In the process, I must have made some dust inside the barrel. Some heat was needed to insert the section into the barrel. A spark must have come out of the hair dryer and flown inside the barrel. The barrel caught fire and went up in smoke in about a second -- just enough time for me to drop it without getting burned. Luckily, I was performing this operation over the kitchen sink. I was left with a J-bar, a lever, and the metal stud from the end. Oh yes, and a cylindrical pile of grey ash.

How Awful!!! I wouldn't have even imagined it happening!?! I am afraid of heat guns, but I have used hairdryers and thought it was Relatively safe ( never thought a fire could occur in any circumstance - but I know Nothing ). And most of my tinkering is done at the kitchen table - Yikes!

I currently do not own a pen with a lever and J-bar, but I will consider this a forewarning. I only have Parkers ( Vac.s, Duofold, 51's ), so I don't think I will have to heat them After I insert a new sac, but boy I will be more careful now with a hairdryer.

Thank You so much for sharing your experience, but I feel so bad about the pen. Will you look into purchasing another?

I only buy pens at flea markets and then only if the price is extremely low, like if I think their next destination will be the landfill. I already have a baker's dozen of Esterbrook Js and do not actively seek any more of them.

It is not the lever or filling innards that pose the fire hazard; it is the composition of the pen. Many old pens, like the Esterbrook J are made of nitrocellulose (AKA guncotton} or cellulose acetate which is only slightly less flammable. Always keep an old pen away from an open flame. If you have to heat one, do so where you can turn loose of it in a hurry.

Point well taken, I just feel bad that you had to go through it. I have bought almost all of my pens off Ebay and so, they all need to be restored. Some I want to try myself and some fixes I have enough sense to know I am just not going to be able to do.

That is a sensible way of looking at pen repair. However, when you buy your pens at a flea market and only pay $3 to $5 for one, you can find yourself willing to take a few chances. There are some that I wouldn't touch with a runcible spoon, though, like a Vac fill Sheaffer. I inherited one of those and sent it to a pro for repair.

[Anne]

That is a sensible way of looking at pen repair. However, when you buy your pens at a flea market and only pay $3 to $5 for one, you can find yourself willing to take a few chances. There are some that I wouldn't touch with a runcible spoon, though, like a Vac fill Sheaffer. I inherited one of those and sent it to a pro for repair.

I can understand that ( but I'm sure you have more experience than I do! ), but the only pen I have had success so far opening are two Wingsung 233's
Now, I have Parkers in front of me and I am *trying* to be sensible and slow in restoration.
( I still haven't been able to open a Parker 51 Aerometric; and the hood off a vacumatic. I am hoping they didn't use epoxy, like I have read some people used out of ignorance )

I am not too proud to send a pen to a professional. I couldn't open a few old Pelikans and they scared me! Nothing scares Ron Zorn, I wouldn't hesitate to ask him or anyone else of his caliber for help. I really hope more people are taking up the torch though - I need help

[penwash]

Honestly, I write/sketch with the reverse side of the nib whenever I want a hairline. As long as the pen will respond that way, no damage is done.

That makes sense. I draw too, but...
with b-b-ballpoints...

I tried... to draw with a b-point but I can't see where I'm drawing.
Maybe the way I'm holding it or my head position, but I see a line coming out "under" the ballpoint,
so I can't position the point precisely enough.

That's why I use F nib fountain pen and a mechanical pencil.

[penwash]

That is a sensible way of looking at pen repair. However, when you buy your pens at a flea market and only pay $3 to $5 for one, you can find yourself willing to take a few chances. There are some that I wouldn't touch with a runcible spoon, though, like a Vac fill Sheaffer. I inherited one of those and sent it to a pro for repair.

I'm about to restore a Vac-fill Tucky.
Let's see which one is more "interesting" to restore, the Vac-Fill or a Snorkel.

I can restore a Snorkel, the most annoying part is having to open that "V" clamped hard rubber cube -- without deforming (too much) either the metal or the rubber -- just to get to the ink sac.

[Anne]

Honestly, I write/sketch with the reverse side of the nib whenever I want a hairline. As long as the pen will respond that way, no damage is done.

That makes sense. I draw too, but...
with b-b-ballpoints...

I tried... to draw with a b-point but I can't see where I'm drawing.
Maybe the way I'm holding it or my head position, but I see a line coming out "under" the ballpoint,
so I can't position the point precisely enough.

That's why I use F nib fountain pen and a mechanical pencil.

I have only toyed with little doodles and small scenes with a Pen and Ink Sketch set I was given some time ago. I really have to get more serious in actually drawing with a fountain pen. I have to look through the nibs I have and find an EF or F nib though Thank You for the tip, no pun intended!
What kind of fountain pen do you use for drawing?
I may want to use permanent ink, have you used that for drawing at all?

[penwash]

Honestly, I write/sketch with the reverse side of the nib whenever I want a hairline. As long as the pen will respond that way, no damage is done.

That makes sense. I draw too, but...
with b-b-ballpoints...

I tried... to draw with a b-point but I can't see where I'm drawing.
Maybe the way I'm holding it or my head position, but I see a line coming out "under" the ballpoint,
so I can't position the point precisely enough.

That's why I use F nib fountain pen and a mechanical pencil.

I have only toyed with little doodles and small scenes with a Pen and Ink Sketch set I was given some time ago. I really have to get more serious in actually drawing with a fountain pen. I have to look through the nibs I have and find an EF or F nib though Thank You for the tip, no pun intended!
What kind of fountain pen do you use for drawing?
I may want to use permanent ink, have you used that for drawing at all?

ATM I mainly use the TWSBI Mini (F) and Esterbrook J with 9668 nib for my sloppy sketches.
I like the Pilot Prera a lot for sketching, but currently it's a Cursive Medium pen, so I don't know if I can draw with it or not.

If you peruse this thread, some members post fountain pen sketches and the pens we use:
http://fpgeeks.com/forum/showthread....n-pen-sketches

[Anne]

ATM I mainly use the TWSBI Mini (F) and Esterbrook J with 9668 nib for my sloppy sketches.
I like the Pilot Prera a lot for sketching, but currently it's a Cursive Medium pen, so I don't know if I can draw with it or not.

If you peruse this thread, some members post fountain pen sketches and the pens we use:
http://fpgeeks.com/forum/showthread....n-pen-sketches[/QUOTE]

I love the TWSBI Mini. I have a few, so I may have to check for a Fine nib now and try it out. Thank You - I will check the sketches and info in that thread

[Paddler]

That is a sensible way of looking at pen repair. However, when you buy your pens at a flea market and only pay $3 to $5 for one, you can find yourself willing to take a few chances. There are some that I wouldn't touch with a runcible spoon, though, like a Vac fill Sheaffer. I inherited one of those and sent it to a pro for repair.

I'm about to restore a Vac-fill Tucky.
Let's see which one is more "interesting" to restore, the Vac-Fill or a Snorkel.

I can restore a Snorkel, the most annoying part is having to open that "V" clamped hard rubber cube -- without deforming (too much) either the metal or the rubber -- just to get to the ink sac.

A small jeweler's screwdriver is handy for unbending the metal around the cube. Then pry gently with a pointy X-acto knife. The part that gives me fits is the upper seal. Getting that slippery little devil to stay in its groove exercises my vocabulary.

[penwash]

That is a sensible way of looking at pen repair. However, when you buy your pens at a flea market and only pay $3 to $5 for one, you can find yourself willing to take a few chances. There are some that I wouldn't touch with a runcible spoon, though, like a Vac fill Sheaffer. I inherited one of those and sent it to a pro for repair.

I'm about to restore a Vac-fill Tucky.
Let's see which one is more "interesting" to restore, the Vac-Fill or a Snorkel.

I can restore a Snorkel, the most annoying part is having to open that "V" clamped hard rubber cube -- without deforming (too much) either the metal or the rubber -- just to get to the ink sac.

A small jeweler's screwdriver is handy for unbending the metal around the cube. Then pry gently with a pointy X-acto knife. The part that gives me fits is the upper seal. Getting that slippery little devil to stay in its groove exercises my vocabulary.

Aha! I found a weapon for that slippery upper seal. A little needle point tweezer that is bent upward (think "fude" nib).
Because of the bending upward, I can hold the new ring in place along with the pen with my left hand, then work on jamming the rest of it into the groove with a toothpick with my right hand.

[Paddler]

That is a sensible way of looking at pen repair. However, when you buy your pens at a flea market and only pay $3 to $5 for one, you can find yourself willing to take a few chances. There are some that I wouldn't touch with a runcible spoon, though, like a Vac fill Sheaffer. I inherited one of those and sent it to a pro for repair.

I'm about to restore a Vac-fill Tucky.
Let's see which one is more "interesting" to restore, the Vac-Fill or a Snorkel.

I can restore a Snorkel, the most annoying part is having to open that "V" clamped hard rubber cube -- without deforming (too much) either the metal or the rubber -- just to get to the ink sac.

A small jeweler's screwdriver is handy for unbending the metal around the cube. Then pry gently with a pointy X-acto knife. The part that gives me fits is the upper seal. Getting that slippery little devil to stay in its groove exercises my vocabulary.

Aha! I found a weapon for that slippery upper seal. A little needle point tweezer that is bent upward (think "fude" nib).
Because of the bending upward, I can hold the new ring in place along with the pen with my left hand, then work on jamming the rest of it into the groove with a toothpick with my right hand.

Good idea. I will try that next time.

[Anne]

Paddler and Penwash: I just ordered my first Esterbrook pen. They claim it has been restored, so I truly hope it is. It comes with the 2550 nib, do you think that would be too fine to sketch with?

[penwash]

Anne, I use 9556 and 9314-F when I sketch using the Esterbrook J.
I think most common Esterbrook nibs are usable for sketching as they are typically fine, rigid and smooth (if properly aligned).
The only ones to watch out for would be the 2314-M or B or the 9314-M or B because these are wide Oblique Stub nibs (I can use the -F version for sketching).


Group shot of my Esties.
Missing in the photo is another Copper J and a blue LJ and pencil set (different shade than the blue in the picture).

[DASEFnib]

Anne, I use 9556 and 9314-F when I sketch using the Esterbrook J.
I think most common Esterbrook nibs are usable for sketching as they are typically fine, rigid and smooth (if properly aligned).
The only ones to watch out for would be the 2314-M or B or the 9314-M or B because these are wide Oblique Stub nibs (I can use the -F version for sketching).


Group shot of my Esties.
Missing in the photo is another Copper J and a blue LJ and pencil set (different shade than the blue in the picture).

NICE collection!!!
Right now I'm up to 8...mostly J's, a couple of SJ's and LJ's...
Most have come to me fully restored.....only one needed a nib and a sac....

Always try to get the dibs....on fountain pens with EF nibs!!

[Paddler]

Paddler and Penwash: I just ordered my first Esterbrook pen. They claim it has been restored, so I truly hope it is. It comes with the 2550 nib, do you think that would be too fine to sketch with?

I don't think anything is too fine to sketch with. Instruction books for sketching tend to recommend crow quill and the Hunt 104 dip pens. I doubt you will find many pens that draw a finer line than those. The 104 is flexible so you can lean on it a little to get a thicker line.

[Sailor Kenshin]

Allow me to embarrass myself by asking whether lever-fillers with threaded nib units can be eyedropper-loaded, with the unit out.

[jar]

Allow me to embarrass myself by asking whether lever-fillers with threaded nib units can be eyedropper-loaded, with the unit out.

No single right answer. It will really depend on the pen. But why?

[Sailor Kenshin]

Allow me to embarrass myself by asking whether lever-fillers with threaded nib units can be eyedropper-loaded, with the unit out.

No single right answer. It will really depend on the pen. But why?

In order to use certain inks from sample vials that don't have enough left in them to immerse the nib. I've done it successfully with my TWSBIs, just wondered about other pens with threaded nib units.