Is my 61 supposed to do this?

[eharriett]

Just purchased my first 61. It is a capillary filler. I wanted one. Thought it was cool. I just tried filling it for the first time. I had it sit in a vial of ink for about 4 minutes. When I lifted it out to try to write, nothing came to the nib but ink started dripping out of the airhole at the bottom. Did I do something wrong? Is it in need of repair? Is this normal?

Thanks

[Robert]

I have a 61 that had this problem. I took it to a local pen shop (Dromgoole's), and Larry Dromgoole dropped the pen in the shop's ultrasonic cleaner for a few minutes and, mirabile dictu, the pen drew ink and . . . worked. I don't know if this will work in your case, but it's worth a try . . . if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaning machine.

[Hawk]

Try using a modified bulb syringe to force water through the capillary tube and then swith ends and force water through the nib end. Pen flush might be helpful. It wurked for me.

[pajaro]

Usually I put my capillary filler into the ink for about forty-five minutes. My 61 writes perfectly.

[Hawk]

Usually I put my capillary filler into the ink for about forty-five minutes. My 61 writes perfectly.

I doubt Parker intended to have a fill time that long. It would indicate to me that the capillary membrane is clogged with dried ink. Ultrasonic cleaning or forcing water through it should make it perform better. It could also mean the membrane is buggered up inside and the above procedures probably will not work.
If the 45 minute soak works, it is right for your pen and possibly other pens.

[pajaro]

This forty-five minute soak was recommended by someone on FPN. I just put the capillary filler into the ink and do other stuff. Probably a minute or two in the ink would do the same.

[jbb]

Is there a way to tell if/when the pen is filled? Mine are (there are two) writing but I dipped their nibs in water first....and then I filled them with water to re-hydrate any old ink. One has red ink the other has blue. These were part of an ebay lot and a total surprise.

[proteus]

I have just photographed a P61 leaflet ( as supplied with these pens ) and added two images.

In the past I found that any P61 normally used & regularly flushed / serviced pen works perfectly.

Obviously if you buy a neglected one you will always have problems with them until you correct them.

I may do a short piece on basic flushing / soaking to a full service in the next day or so.
( Never put a P61C hood into a ultrasonic cleaner unless you do not mind the arrow becoming detached )

[Farmboy]

For those interested, the arrow hides the injection point, aka, sprue from the manufacture.

[proteus]

Farmboy,


I am always interested in reading anything that you have to say.


The hood without the arrow is totally flat on all the P61C's I have ever seen.


( Member FUnicorn Merit Badge Club, I am not that clever........loose the F and I would understand, I suspect that it was meant )

[Fermata]

For those interested, the arrow hides the injection point, aka, sprue from the manufacture.

I didn't know that, I also didn't know the word sprue.

TY

[proteus]

For those interested.....

sprue - a channel through which metal or plastic is poured into a mould

[Farmboy]

Later hoods with out the arrows simply had the sprue polished off or the molds were changed. We talked to several Parker employees involved in the 61 Mark I and the troubles it caused for Parker. Tim and I need to rewrite the 71/61 article with some new information and possibly pen a TechTalk for the Pennant on some of the more obscure factoids we came away with.

[proteus]

Farmboy,

Invaluable information as always

Thank You.

Have read Tim L. & your 2016 article ( SF Pen show )

Thought it was an outstanding.

[proteus]

If you do buy a neglected P61C I would recommend the following before use.

The key is patience, the actual time applied is not more than 30 minutes in total

Soak the pen for at least 24 hrs, changing the warm water at intervals.

Some restorers use the Parker 61 ink ejector, but as they are rare most use a rubber bulb.
The main issue for me not using a made up bulb is the pressure applied to the small cloth piece of cloth at the end of the capillary is not designed for it.
One that is not in very good condition may release itself or simply fall apart.

The proper Parker injector has a valve at the tip of the bulb it appears to release a more gentle pressure.

I no longer use either, many will not like what I do next.
Wipe capillary down and then I actually put the tip in my mouth and gently blow. ( never had any ink in my mouth ! )
This will release the ink.
Repeat as necessary until the water is clear.

Then stand this section, nib down for a least 24hours.

Your P61C will now have some function.
In order for it to have full function again you will need to go the next stage.
Hood removal etc which I will reply with my methods used in the next day or so.

[welch]

Seems like a dried-out and probably long-neglected capillary 61. The goal is to clean it out. Unlike all other fountain pens, the 61 capillary has no moving parts, no pushing things or pulling things or anything else...beautifully simple, almost the perfect design.

Yes, I picked up a capillary 61 when I returned to fountain pens about 15 years ago. I didn't like it, thought, well, this design is too smart for its own good. Snickered at the Parker advertisement in which William Holden stares at a P-61as Parker's ad-department writes, "Like no pen in this world or any other". Well, I was wrong.

Whenever I revive my capillary 61, I soak it, following almost the same practice that Proteus demonstrates above. Usually an overnight soak is good enough. Then soak nib down for a few hours.

Finally, I take the 61 to my bathroom sink, and blow. That's the same principle as the ink injector or the bulb, although I might be blowing too hard. That's what I get from Proteus's description / demonstration.

[proteus]

Stage 2 – Parker 61 Capillary FP restoration. ( The method works for me )

When soaked as mentioned above, do NOT stand the pen too let it dry out.

This next stage is the hood removal. ( it should take about 30 minutes )

I use pieces of new bicycle tyre cut into strips and a small jaw pliers / grips

Images 1 and 2.

Apply heat using the hair dryer with a slim attachment ( to focus the heat into a narrow field ) – I use maximum heat and apply it to the area to from the clutch ring to about 25mm down the hood ( That is the area which houses the collector steel cylinder and screw sections )

Heated for about 15 secs – rotating the pens to disperse the heat even around the his whole circumference.

After this the area should feel hot to touch – do not over heat – the plastic is brittle.

With the pliers/grips in one hand use the other hand with a rubber piece to turn the hood anti clockwise.
Be gentle ( firm grip ) once it is loose it will easily unscrew.
It if does not release, the collector is still fused ( old ink ) to the hood
Re soak.

If you continue regardless, there is good chance you will split the collector in two.
Now you have lost not only the collector but the capillary cell too. ( Image 3 )

Placed the ‘opened ‘ section in the bowl of warm water.

When the ink has dispersed place the whole unstripped section back into the Ultrasonic unit filled with warm water. I gave it two cycles again at 180 secs.

After all the ink was removed then stripped the nib section.
If you try to strip down before it is totally clean you risk hardened dry ink damaging the fragile plastic sections.

The small teflon ( PTFE ) coated rolled plastic sheet from the black capillary cell can be easily removed.


If anyone has any comments / observations / questions please do post a reply.


If you are just after spare parts from a hood that you will not reuse ( no arrow, marks etc )
The process is vastly easier, place it into a Ultrasonic unit.

If anyone is interested, I will mention my method of doing it.

[Farmboy]

I always recommend trying to remove the connector ring and not take off the hood.

[Bananabender]

If you do buy a neglected P61C I would recommend the following before use.

The key is patience, the actual time applied is not more than 30 minutes in total

Soak the pen for at least 24 hrs, changing the warm water at intervals.

Some restorers use the Parker 61 ink ejector, but as they are rare most use a rubber bulb.
The main issue for me not using a made up bulb is the pressure applied to the small cloth piece of cloth at the end of the capillary is not designed for it.
One that is not in very good condition may release itself or simply fall apart.

The proper Parker injector has a valve at the tip of the bulb it appears to release a more gentle pressure.

I no longer use either, many will not like what I do next.
Wipe capillary down and then I actually put the tip in my mouth and gently blow. ( never had any ink in my mouth ! )
This will release the ink.
Repeat as necessary until the water is clear.

Then stand this section, nib down for a least 24hours.

Your P61C will now have some function.
In order for it to have full function again you will need to go the next stage.
Hood removal etc which I will reply with my methods used in the next day or so.

My Dear Proteus
Your sage advice has been invaluable to me in understanding how to strip ,clean,fill ,repair and empty the 61 and vacumatic HOWEVER your suggestion to use ones mouth to blow out ink/ water was, for me, not one of your most invaluable tips. All I can say is just as well I was not wearing an expensive white shirt or pants.
Everything was fine until it got down to bubbles of ink which popped on exiting the nib with the result I had tiny black black spots on my hands,face ,glasses and all other parts of me in close proximity to the nib.
I will stick with gentle puffing with my rubber bulb.

BB

[proteus]

BB,

My fault, I should have added ' whilst the pen is submerged in a bowl of water - I actually put the tip in my mouth and gently blow.