A collection of questions.

[Music and Ink]

The first of which is: what colors were most common in the 30's 40's and 50's? The second is: how long will an unopened bottle of ink last as well as an opened bottle which has been closed tightly after being used at various levels of fullness. And the third is: what is the blackest blue black ink with which you have written?

[Paddler]

I don't have any actual research figures to show. However, I was born in 1946 and have been around fountain pens ever since and can tell you what our family used and what was used in schools. I also used to collect vintage fountain pens found "in the wild" and did paper chromatography on the dried inks I found in them. In my neck of the woods, over the time span you indicate, black was most often used, followed closely by blue, and then, in much smaller numbers, green.

A full bottle of ink will last longer than a partially full one simply because the full bottle has more ink to evaporate. Beyond that, the vapor pressure of water in both bottles should be the same and therefore the same amount of water should leak past the cap seal in any given time. So the full bottle will last longer.

The blackest blue black I have ever used is Parker's Quink. But then, it may be the only blue black I have ever used. I don't really know; I don't keep records like that.

[frmamede]

The first of which is: what colors were most common in the 30's 40's and 50's? The second is: how long will an unopened bottle of ink last as well as an opened bottle which has been closed tightly after being used at various levels of fullness. And the third is: what is the blackest blue black ink with which you have written?

Can't say much about questions 1 and 2. About question 3, I was also looking for a very dark blue black and looked at many internet scans of comparisons (bare in mind that pics and scans can alter how an ink looks, so it was not a "perfect" method). I liked a few options, such as Diamine Eclipse, Edelstein Tanzanite and Montblac Midnight Hour.

[Music and Ink]

That's crazy. Do you post your findings with the vintage pens? And how much water does a bottle of ink lose in a year if usage is ignored? Also, was blue black a thing back then or was it usually blue or black? And was the blue typically a medium blue or closer to blue blank?

[Music and Ink]

Eclipse is very interesting, I have a sample. It is somehow grey, black and almost purple all at the same time with its shading.

[Paddler]

That's crazy. Do you post your findings with the vintage pens? And how much water does a bottle of ink lose in a year if usage is ignored? Also, was blue black a thing back then or was it usually blue or black? And was the blue typically a medium blue or closer to blue blank?

No, I don't post the findings. The separated bands of color are too weak to photograph well and just describing them isn't accurate enough. I wanted to make a database of inks and their composition so I could tell what was going on in the area with writers, a bit like Sherlock Holmes and his collection of tobacco ash. Then I found out that ink manufacturers change formulations without advertising the fact and that killed the idea.

Water loss would depend on the composition of the container. A glass bottle and a cardboard seal in a metal cap will lose at a certain rate. A plastic bottle would lose water faster, etc.

Back then, it was mostly either black or blue. This was a Sheaffer area. Most of the pens were Wearever, Sheaffer, Parker, and others in that order. People bought Skrip ink in black, Royal Blue, or green. Parker's Quink was around too, but was not really plentiful. Sanford sold some of those small jeweled bottles too.

Skrip Royal Blue was a saturated medium blue (color saturation, not dye content). It is a lively color. You can still find old bottles of it in flea markets. Just replace the water that has evaporated past the coated paper gasket. I got a supply of it one day when a guy brought a whole NOS case of 4-oz bottles. Wanted $7 each for them. I got some 3 for $20.

[distracted_mom]

Hmmm. I bought a bottle of Sheaffer Skrip Emerald at an antique store. It's about 20% full. If I understand correctly, there's likely been some evaporation over the years. Is it ok to add some distilled water to the bottle?


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[Paddler]

Hmmm. I bought a bottle of Sheaffer Skrip Emerald at an antique store. It's about 20% full. If I understand correctly, there's likely been some evaporation over the years. Is it ok to add some distilled water to the bottle?


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You can add distilled water a little at a time until the ink is the shade you want. Go slowly and test often. Don't just pay attention to the color shade; keep an eye on any possible feathering, bleeding, and lubricity of the ink as you add water. Using a dip pen for this saves time because it is quickly cleaned between tests. Dipping a fountain pen takes more time to clean and dry.

[Paddler]

I forgot to add in message #6:
Esterbrook J, LJ. and SJ pens were popular in this area. In numbers they probably fit behind the Sheaffer pens. People bought most of these with the 2XXX (untipped) series nibs. I find them with very worn tips; they look like there is a hoof on the end of the nib. I have no idea how much writing it takes to wear one of these nibs that much -- high school and college would be my guess. Maybe office workers and secretaries used them They almost always have black ink left in them.

[Vespagirl]

Ink coloring might also depend on the time. My grandfather was an accountant and he was, by law, required to use specific ink colors because photocopying had entered the market place by the 60s.

When I inherited one of his pens, he clearly used a dark blue black. This was verified by my farther since he was required to write in blue (I guess he didn't like it much). As the layers stripped away, I reached a pocket of black ink. Since the pen was from the 30s, clearly his ink changed over time.

As to longevity of inks: I'm pretty new at this as well, but I did get my first fountain pen in the early 90s. The bottle of ink I used then sat waiting for about 25 years (in a ziplock since I moved frequently) just waiting for me to get back into the hobby. When I, literally, picked up my pen and ink again, it still works perfect. In fact, it is probably my most forgiving ink.

I know 25 years is not 80, but it's a little more insight.


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[Chrissy]

Hmmm. I bought a bottle of Sheaffer Skrip Emerald at an antique store. It's about 20% full. If I understand correctly, there's likely been some evaporation over the years. Is it ok to add some distilled water to the bottle?


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I have a bottle of Sheaffer Skrip Emerald, and it's so watery that I would like it to evaporate so that it might become more concentrated. So although it's OK to add a little distilled water to your bottle, it's best to decide if you like the shade that it is now, because once you start adding distilled water, it will become less and less saturated and lighter looking.

[stub]

To reduce water content.

Cap loosely or uncap (careful!)

Sit directly atop dehumidifier.

run dehumidfier to taste.

Keep in mind that inks are more than dye and water but also contain preservatives, humectants, surfactants, etc. So you are changing more than the color but the properties of the ink as the ratio of water : other_stuff changes.