Ink starvation ? Nibs too far apart ?

[lowks]

I have had a few of my used pens (Lamy Studio, Sheaffer Legacy, St Dupont Olympio) that have this problem: After writing for a little while the ink would dry out and I would have to tap the nib on the paper a couple of times to get writing restarted. It's as though the ink does not flow down to the nib if not tapped or slightly shaken. This is very irritating. What I have observed is this:

1. For one of the pens the times look okay I can see light coming through, but then the nib meets at the end.
2. I have tried different inks with the pens and they all seem to have this behavior (MontBlanc/Aurora/Pelikan)
3. All of them have been cleaned with the ultra sonic cleaner and have been flushed.
4. After I got the pens I have washed the nibs with a lots of water a drop of kitchen detergent.

Can someone suggest a possible explanation ?

[PaulS]

could be wrong, but I don't get the feeling that this is being caused by the tines having a tad too much separation. From what you are saying, the nib appears to carry a 'load' of ink, and when that volume is exhausted, writing ceases. As you've had the pen u/s cleaned, flushed etc., then there seems no reason to think there's a blockage anywhere - in the feed for example - so my suggestion is that the nib might just be proud of the feed, enough to prevent ink from transferring from feed to nib.
Don't know whether you have any remedial skills to correct this - believe some feeds can be dry-heated and pressed toward the nib to close any potential gap - but failing this you might need professional skills to remove feed and nib, from the section, and reset both.
Hope you manage to cure the problem.

[View from the Loft]

A common problem is surface tension in the convertors preventing the ink from flowing down to the collector and feed. To test if this is the issue, try using a cartridge instead. If the problem does not recur, surface tension is likely to be the culprit.

To resolve this, you could try threading a tiny spring into the convertor to break the surface tension. Alternatively, flush out the convertor and then add a drop of washing up liquid to a mug of water, and then cycle this solution through the convertor a couple of times and then let the convertor dry before refilling.

[PaulS]

sounds a more likely solution than my suggestion. Some converters contain a suitably sized plastic/glass ball, which I'd assumed was there to break the surface tension - or am I wrong with that thought?

[lowks]

A common problem is surface tension in the convertors preventing the ink from flowing down to the collector and feed. To test if this is the issue, try using a cartridge instead. If the problem does not recur, surface tension is likely to be the culprit.

To resolve this, you could try threading a tiny spring into the convertor to break the surface tension. Alternatively, flush out the convertor and then add a drop of washing up liquid to a mug of water, and then cycle this solution through the convertor a couple of times and then let the convertor dry before refilling.

Thanks will give that a try.

[lowks]

Yeah I have seen those agitator balls too.

[ac12]

sounds a more likely solution than my suggestion. Some converters contain a suitably sized plastic/glass ball, which I'd assumed was there to break the surface tension - or am I wrong with that thought?

IMHO, some of those balls are for show. They do not have the MASS to fall through the ink to break the surface tension.
I put a stainless steel ball into the converters that I can open. That usually solves the problem. The only exception is the Lamy converter with the RED knob. On the Lamy converter, the ball will seat and seal the hole on the front of the converter, which is NOT good.
Better would be a stainless steel spring, so it won't seal the front of the converter.

[Chrissy]

My Pilot converters have the small spring inside.

[ac12]

Interesting that it happens to several pens.
It is hard to diagnose problems such as this remotely.
This is one that I would like the pen in my hand, to figure out the problem.

The SS ball in the converter assumes that the ink is stuck in the back of the converter.

If you are rolling your hand as you write, you could be rolling off the sweet spot on the nib, and are now only on one tine.

Quote:
After writing for a little while the ink would dry out
> Exactly how much can you write before the pen dries out?

[lowks]

Looks like the earlier suggestion gets the cigar. The pen behaves normally when using a cartridge.

[PaulS]

good to hear that - congratulations

[View from the Loft]

Looks like the earlier suggestion gets the cigar. The pen behaves normally when using a cartridge.

Excellent - at least there are easy ways around this. In addition to my earlier suggestions, you could always refill a cartridge (which means that you can use your bottles of ink). Personally, I've found the washing up liquid solution works well enough.

[lowks]

Looks like the earlier suggestion gets the cigar. The pen behaves normally when using a cartridge.

Excellent - at least there are easy ways around this. In addition to my earlier suggestions, you could always refill a cartridge (which means that you can use your bottles of ink). Personally, I've found the washing up liquid solution works well enough.

I think I will try to go back to the washed converter after the cartridge is empty. The hole on this cartridge is so small I don't feel like wielding a syringe every time I need to replace the ink

[View from the Loft]

I think I will try to go back to the washed converter after the cartridge is empty. The hole on this cartridge is so small I don't feel like wielding a syringe every time I need to replace the ink

Oh it definitely needs a needle on the syringe. I often use this method to get the last dregs out of a bottle to refill a convertor (saves inky fingers when trying to fill a convertor not attached to the pen).

[mhosea]

I haven't seen that problem very much since I started greasing my converters in exactly the same way as I grease piston fillers, i.e. lightly with pure silicone grease. I'm not sure the two are connected, but I think they might be.

[lowks]

Is there a way to create the agitator in the converter by using a small metal ball or spring ? Has anyone that before ?

[mhosea]

Is there a way to create the agitator in the converter by using a small metal ball or spring ? Has anyone that before ?

Sure. The rear collar on most converters unscrews (or sometimes is just snapped on). You'll just have to research the matter when it comes to any particular converter. May take heat and patience, bit like getting the section off a vintage pen. But unlike getting the section off of a vintage pen, you can just have a replacement converter on hand in case you end up destroying the one you're trying to disassemble. Anyway, once you have it off, you can put anything you like in there as long as it is impervious to the ink you're using. I'm not personally convinced this is a good solution, but all that matters is that it work for you with whatever object you choose.

[ac12]

Is there a way to create the agitator in the converter by using a small metal ball or spring ? Has anyone that before ?

Some converters can be opened, and as SOP I put a stainless steel (SS) ball into them.
The only converter that the SS ball does not work in, is the Lamy converter with the RED handle. The SS ball will seal the opening in the front of the converter. The Lamy converter needs a SS spring.

I have not been able to open the Parker nor Sheaffer screw piston converters. I think the top is glued onto the body.

[mhosea]

I have not been able to open the Parker nor Sheaffer screw piston converters. I think the top is glued onto the body.

I've been successful with a Sheaffer before, with heat and determination. Unfortunately, I just don't remember about Parker. I want to say that the black connector version is glued and the white connector isn't, but like I said, I don't remember. At any rate, the Sheaffer was difficult enough that I gave up on every try until I decided I was willing to break it just to find out. The St Dupont converter I had was tight, but it wasn't anything like the Sheaffer in that regard.