Lever clip ring removal

[Linkinyeah]

Bought a great Wasp screaming souls in green yesterday for 80 cents. I am trying to remove the lever. When I look down the barrel it appears to have the ring clip. I have tried pushing down and turning, but no luck. Any ideas?

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[penwash]

If you don't really have to remove the lever, leave it be.

The ring goes through the lever -- to keep the lever in place -- and into a groove in the barrel that keeps the ring in place.

The difficult part is to dislodge the ring from its groove without marring the barrel's inside.

I use a dental pick that I straightened (with a lot of heat) with the last 3mm of the end bent at about 90 degrees, this tool is my go-to tool to remove rings like this, but again, I don't do it unless I really-really have to.

[Linkinyeah]

If you don't really have to remove the lever, leave it be.

The ring goes through the lever -- to keep the lever in place -- and into a groove in the barrel that keeps the ring in place.

The difficult part is to dislodge the ring from its groove without marring the barrel's inside.

I use a dental pick that I straightened (with a lot of heat) with the last 3mm of the end bent at about 90 degrees, this tool is my go-to tool to remove rings like this, but again, I don't do it unless I really-really have to.

Thanks, I was trying to remove it to clean it thoroughly and so I would not have to tape it off for removing scratches.

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[Jon Szanto]

If you think getting the lever ring out is hard, wait until you try to get it back in place. If the exterior restoration is the issue, I'd definitely tape it and go that direction.

Also, be careful: that particular material ("souls") can be very fragile.

[Linkinyeah]

Okay, I already bent it once and I think I will just be pushing my luck. The sac was deteriorated. I cleaned everything up and my gut wants to try and get the nib away from the feed to properly clean it. I don't own a nib block. Is this something I should steer away from as well? Anybody know off hand the sac size?

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[Linkinyeah]

I really appreciate this forum and its knowledgeable members. I am the only person I know around me who collects fountain pens. Without this place and the Internet, I would be lost. I purchased a set of micro mesh pads and will soon attempt my first try using them on this pen. Before I scour the Internet on how to's, anybody have some pointers? Is it necessary to use every pad?

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[Jon Szanto]

I purchased a set of micro mesh pads and will soon attempt my first try using them on this pen. Before I scour the Internet on how to's, anybody have some pointers? Is it necessary to use every pad?

Sure, I'll pop in and say some stuff and I HOPE YOU SEE IT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!

Look, the "Souls" pattern isn't very common, which makes this pen a bit on the rare side. One of the biggest mistakes you would ever make is to have that pen be a 'learner' pen for some new technique, especially talking about using abrasives that take material off a pen!!! You are certifiably insane if you use a good and potentially rare-ish pen to learn on.

If you don't have them, get a couple of total junker pens for a buck or two and learn on those. Until you know what you are doing and can judge the grit of mesh/polish to use, you absolutely have to start with the least invasive (in this case, 12,000) and only use rougher if needed. When restoring vintage pens, the worst thing is to remove material because it can never be put back. We have *all* seen those pens online or in shows that gleam and look "showroom new" and then you turn it over and see that the barrel imprint has pretty much been polished away into oblivion.

I realize some restoration people use mesh and on rare occasions of severe damage I might touch up a pen with it. For my uses, I prefer NOVUS 3-Step Plastic Polish, and rarely even use #3 (the most abrasive).

No matter which path you take (and I believe I remember a very good video from Brian Anderson on how he uses pads for polishing), you absolutely have to work on some junker pens to see how all this comes together. If you ruin a perfectly fine example pen just because you want to get going, I will never forgive you.

[penwash]

Okay, I already bent it once and I think I will just be pushing my luck. The sac was deteriorated. I cleaned everything up and my gut wants to try and get the nib away from the feed to properly clean it. I don't own a nib block. Is this something I should steer away from as well? Anybody know off hand the sac size?
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A nib knocking block is not strictly necessary, but it's useful if you plan to do this 100 times in a year like I do. Immersing the section, feed and nib in tap water would be a good way to get rid of hardened ink that often makes knocking block necessary. If you have immersed for a couple of hours and still can't get the fee/nib out by hand, then you need some kind of tool like a knocking block.

But even I sometimes go back to my two wood and rubber-band "knocking block" out of habit and convenience. I should have saved it, but I explained it in length how to construct this unconventional nib and feed remover.

Sac size: if your pen is a typical 5 inches capped vintage pen, sac #16 is a safe bet.

[penwash]

I really appreciate this forum and its knowledgeable members. I am the only person I know around me who collects fountain pens. Without this place and the Internet, I would be lost. I purchased a set of micro mesh pads and will soon attempt my first try using them on this pen. Before I scour the Internet on how to's, anybody have some pointers? Is it necessary to use every pad?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Micro mesh pad for what? Smoothing the nib, right?

You don't have to use all of them, and as Jon said above, there are a few youtube videos to give you some pointers.

[Jon Szanto]

I cleaned everything up and my gut wants to try and get the nib away from the feed to properly clean it. I don't own a nib block. Is this something I should steer away from as well? Anybody know off hand the sac size?

With vintage pens, if you *don't* have to remove something (like the nib/feed), don't. If you feel you absolutely need to do this, mark the section so that there is an indication where the breather hold and slit are so that when you reinsert the nib/feed, you do it in the exact same orientation as before. Many old sections gradually conform to the feed, and you may not get a good seal if you put it in rotated away from the 'sweet spot'.

Yes, you should use a knock-out block, but with great care and some gentle dry heat to warm the section. I would probably take the unit as shown and soak it overnight (the *only* part of a pen I'd soak).

Lastly, about the sac and in general: have you spent literally hours at Richard Binder's site, reading all the reference articles on the many restorations aspects you are talking about? If you haven't YOU SHOULD! When you go there, you'll notice a guide for sac sizes, as well as some common-sense ways to guage the size of a sac for pens not listed. And a million other things to read up on before doing the work. You are really lucky to get the section out this easily.

[Jon Szanto]

I really appreciate this forum and its knowledgeable members. I am the only person I know around me who collects fountain pens. Without this place and the Internet, I would be lost. I purchased a set of micro mesh pads and will soon attempt my first try using them on this pen. Before I scour the Internet on how to's, anybody have some pointers? Is it necessary to use every pad?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Micro mesh pad for what? Smoothing the nib, right?

You don't have to use all of them, and as Jon said above, there are a few youtube videos to give you some pointers.

I think he is talking about the body of the pen, based on his earlier comments about taping over or removing the lever.

[Linkinyeah]

Thanks for the input. I will fight the urge and just try the micro gloss and rag on the pen. I have spent lots of time reading, too much if you ask my family, but I just thought someone who has worked on this pen might chime in and confirm my thoughts. I am not going to attempt the nib and section either. The pen does have some deeper scratches I can't imagine the gloss removing. I might just bite the bullet and send it off to Danny Fudge for piece of mind. The problem is that I am like a kid with my new found addiction to these pens and I just hate the wait associated with getting them back. I look forward to using each one I get. Thank you for your time.

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[Jon Szanto]

Thanks for the input. I will fight the urge and just try the micro gloss and rag on the pen. I have spent lots of time reading, too much if you ask my family, but I just thought someone who has worked on this pen might chime in and confirm my thoughts. I am not going to attempt the nib and section either. The pen does have some deeper scratches I can't imagine the gloss removing. I might just bite the bullet and send it off to Danny Fudge for piece of mind. The problem is that I am like a kid with my new found addiction to these pens and I just hate the wait associated with getting them back. I look forward to using each one I get. Thank you for your time.

That all sounds good. Keep in mind I get... enthusiastic, so take my stuff in stride! I hope you will let Danny do the work, it's worth it. As for waiting for the pen: I have learned on my own, and from many a pen restoration person, that the most important tool you can have for working on pens is patience. This might be a good way to work on that!

Best of luck. I'll tell you my 'souls' story some day...

[penwash]

I really appreciate this forum and its knowledgeable members. I am the only person I know around me who collects fountain pens. Without this place and the Internet, I would be lost. I purchased a set of micro mesh pads and will soon attempt my first try using them on this pen. Before I scour the Internet on how to's, anybody have some pointers? Is it necessary to use every pad?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Micro mesh pad for what? Smoothing the nib, right?

You don't have to use all of them, and as Jon said above, there are a few youtube videos to give you some pointers.

I think he is talking about the body of the pen, based on his earlier comments about taping over or removing the lever.

Then I agree with you. I never use a micro-mesh or any kind of abrasive sheet/pad on the body of the pen.

Novus, Flitz, sometimes Simichrome are okay.

[PaulS]

if, for whatever reason you don't wish to buy a nib knocking out block (as opposed to a nib smoothing/straightening block), you might ask someone in the family or local to you, to drill several holes in a block of hardwood. Block might be 2.75"/3" thick, and holes should penetrate the block completely, and suitable hole sizes might be in the range of 4mm - 8mm in diameter, with 1mm increments. I wouldn't drop the entire section into water, although tepid probably wouldn't matter - again, the hair dryer is good enough for heating prior to knocking out the feed/nib - with water there's just the outside chance of oxidising the BHR section. Apart from a hammer, something like a 3mm 4mm nail should do the trick - the end can remain round but it must be square to the shank and definitely not pointed in way ........... old drill bits, used upside down are ideal for knocking out - but remember the diameter MUST be smaller than the opening at the rear of the section.
A Vernier caliper is a good suggestion for a Christmas present - with ability to measure internal and external.

As already commented, Micro Mesh pads can be useful but care is needed unless you know what you're doing - but they do have their uses for pen bodies that need some strong tlc.
The better suggestion is to use the Micro Mesh polishing liquids - far less invasive and will still create a good shine, and the fine grade polishing liquid can be used sparingly to shine the nib.

Would agree - don't remove levers and rings unless essential - cap clips yes - and mask off and take your time.