Parker 51 Mk I Aerometric nib & feed section strip down

[proteus]

Over the last few days I stripped down possibly the worst clogged pen I have ever seen – a P51 Mk 1 Aerometric. On closer examination the ink had actually fused to the inside of the hood.

Used the same method that I use on the P61’s ( as per my previous post – ultra sonic bath, heat etc )

I have also included another P51 Mk 1 in my photography
It was in very good condition and I have not stripped it down completely as it will be used again.

The Teal one‘s nib is marked PARKER MADE IN ENGLAND RU 1955
From what I have been able to find out the ‘ RU ’ is the chemical abbreviation for Ruthenium, the metal used to add the nib tipping pellet to the point. I would invite the more knowledgeable members to confirm or correct my statement.

( the purists will be shaking their heads at my next comment )
Rather than using a shellac compound to reseal I was considering using a product called FERNOX LSX which is a fine clear silicone paste. It is non toxic adhesive that bonds to most metals and plastics. I have used for the last 15 years I am very proficient at applying. The advantage is it would make an excellent seal that can easily be broken ( no heat is needed to break the seal ). Old Fernox seals can be removed without any abrasion – rubbing gently removes it easily.
Has anyone tried any other modern products with good results ?

If anyone has any comments or experiences that they are able to share I would greatly appreciate reading them.

[Chrissy]

Thank you. I have never heard of Fernox LSX though.
If I stripped down a Parker 51 then I would automatically replace the black rubber sac with a pli-glass version.

[PaulS]

The RU could well be for ruthenium ................. although nibs at that time appear not to have been neat ruthenium - according to the book they were an alloy of platinum and ruthenium, which Parker named plathenium. Have had a look at my Parker books, but don't seen any reference to P51 aerometric nibs being marked RU.

Anyway, you're probably correct - and thanks for the pix and explanatory notes - very interesting and great pens

I could be very wrong, but had a vague notion that all aerometric P51s used the Pli-glass sac - but maybe it was another case of using up old stock perhaps.?

[proteus]

Many thanks for your reply Chrissy,

I have just looked up pli-glass sac on google.

My knowledge is increasing by the moment.

If you live in the UK and have the time have a look at this website www.vintagepensacsandparts.com

Never heard of it before.

[proteus]

Thanks PaulS

This is very new to me.
Far out of my level of knowledge

After reading your comments I looked up a net source :

' Tipping on the Parker 51 with its nib marked RU is applied as a pellet. Because pelletized metal do not occurs in nature, we can surmise that this was refined, alloyed, and turned into a form that could easily be used in manufacturing.

Ruthenium - 96.2%
Iridium - 3.8% '

Not my words

[PaulS]

well, now we all know, and it seems you were correct

[Wile E Coyote]

Rather than using a shellac compound to reseal I was considering using a product called FERNOX LSX which is a fine clear silicone paste. It is non toxic adhesive that bonds to most metals and plastics. I have used for the last 15 years I am very proficient at applying. The advantage is it would make an excellent seal that can easily be broken ( no heat is needed to break the seal ). Old Fernox seals can be removed without any abrasion – rubbing gently removes it easily.
Has anyone tried any other modern products with good results ?

If anyone has any comments or experiences that they are able to share I would greatly appreciate reading them.

Based on the manufacturer's website, FERNOX LS-X is just a RTV silicone. I'm not sure it would be easily removed once cured if applied to clean surfaces. But it should do a pretty good job of attaching a rubber or silicone sac to the connection. That said, it would be better to use tried and true, reversible methods of sac attachment as used by the manufacturer. (i.e. shellac)

[Farmboy]

The RU could well be for ruthenium ................. although nibs at that time appear not to have been neat ruthenium - according to the book they were an alloy of platinum and ruthenium, which Parker named plathenium. Have had a look at my Parker books, but don't seen any reference to P51 aerometric nibs being marked RU.

Anyway, you're probably correct - and thanks for the pix and explanatory notes - very interesting and great pens

I could be very wrong, but had a vague notion that all aerometric P51s used the Pli-glass sac - but maybe it was another case of using up old stock perhaps.?

Both original and reproduction ply-glass sacs can be obtained. They all stain to a black after you use them, some inks just take one fill to turn the sac black.

Believe Pen World or Pennant had an article about 51 nib markings perhaps 10 years ago now.

[pajaro]

Shellac is a pain to loosen. I have changed a good number of hoods and sometimes changed a nib. I have also made Kullock conversions. Main Street Pens markets a thread sealant that promises to be easier to overcome to remove a hood. I have not tried it. You can use anything you want on your pens, and if it makes a subsequent hood removal easier than unsticking shellac, well and good. If you sell one of those pens, I think you should let the buyer know you used that material to seal it, just so they will know.

[proteus]

Before I joined this forum I spent 3 weeks reading every post and replies for the last year in the Parker section.

Only so I knew if it was worth joining or not.

The vast depth of knowledge of Parker pens is very impressive.

Thought I could advance my knowledge of Parker pens.

The main players are easily recognisable.
Many thanks for taking the time to comment here.
All 3 of you.

This P51 strip down was an exercise, I am not a would be pen restorer.
The teal P51 was car wreck – the only things that are still perfect are the barrel and nib.
The rest I will drop in the bin – they are very dead.

Perhaps I did not make myself clear, sorry – I am new here, need sometime to get upto speed.

[pajaro]

Before I joined this forum I spent 3 weeks reading every post and replies for the last year.

Only so I knew if it was worth joining or not.

The vast depth of knowledge of Parker pens is very impressive.

Thought I could advance my knowledge of Parker pens.

The main players are easily recognisable.
Many thanks for taking the time to comment here.
All 3 of you.

This P51 strip down was an exercise, I am not a would be pen restorer.
The teal P51 was car wreck – the only things that are still perfect are the barrel and nib.
The rest I will drop in the bin – they are very dead.

Perhaps I did not make myself clear, sorry – I am new here, need sometime to get upto speed.

For being new, you did well.

[proteus]

Thank You

I appreciate your comments.

[PaulS]

hello proteus ..... you and I have had some interesting and enjoyable interactive conversations on fpg - and as I've commented elsewhere, I think that on occasions you're far too modest regarding your own depth of knowledge, which sounds to have been gained from first hand experience over many years. I also have you to thank for helping me with the Consort P61 mk. III.
On the other hand my contributions come mostly from other people's books, as my two or three years collecting has yet to put me in your league, although hopefully I shall improve.
But have to say that I was saddened and disappointed to read of your 'assessment' as to whether members here were going to make it 'worth joining or not'. Judging by your continued presence here, reading an entire year's worth of posts (perhaps Parker threads only) presumably you discovered that membership was going to be worthwhile. I suspect many members here will find your approach to judging worthwhile membership of this forum arrogant and less than friendly - it would be someone very special indeed who couldn't learn something from all of the knowledge offered freely here.

Along with others, perhaps, I hope you do stay and continue to share your vast knowledge, and that you won't feel that you made a wrong decision.

[proteus]

Hello PaulS

I always like reading what you have to say.

Your honesty always humbles me.

I will always envy the way you collect pens.
Of the two of us you are the real pen collector.

[Flounder]

Hi Proteus,
You're not really going to bin everything from the teal 51 bar the nib & barrel, are you? Send them to me instead

It's often mentioned that Parker didn't use shellac to seal the hood threads, and in several old servicing manuals shellac isn't mentioned. The sealant pajaro mentioned is very easy to work with - if you like shoot me a PM with your address and I'll send you a smear on wax paper to experiment with.

In re: stripping down, unless the pligass sac needs replaced I feel it's better to leave the sac protector in place rather than stress the plastic aero connector, the sac protector can be a very tight fit indeed.

[proteus]

Hello Flounder

Many thanks for your comments and advice.

This was only ever an exercise - have no use for the parts left over.

If you live in the UK, I will post all of pen expect the nib and cap for free.
If not, it is just too expensive to post abroad

Just looked you up.

It would appear you are a big shot on fpn.

Impressive stuff.

Thanks

[Flounder]

That's nice to hear, but please be assured that I neither consider myself a big shot, nor give a hoot for big-shottery! I'm into pens for the pens, not so interested in pecking orders.

I'll drop you a PM (I'm in the UK too, it's about time I dropped that Edite-Frignim joke). You probably know already that rosin sealant is also considered 'best practise' for securing the celluloid cap jewel due to the ease with which it can be released, so it's quite handy stuff to have around.

[proteus]

Just had quick look at Flounder 's link

http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.co.uk

It is does not show on any google Parker pen search I have ever done.

In one word ' remarkable '