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Thread: Waterman taperite questions

  1. #21
    Senior Member Linkinyeah's Avatar
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    Default Re: Waterman taperite questions

    Well I have fell guilty of shattering a pen as well. I appreciate everyones advice. I am now certain that unless I find a taperite that has already been resaced, I am going to steer away. I am now in search of a replacement barrel, which I am sure others have found out, this is easier said than done. I will probably just have to hold onto the pieces until something comes around. I have seen other posts where people have been able to use the section in the barrel of a cheap Jinhao. Maybe someday I will try this route, but don't own one now. I have seen lots of taperite barrels for sale on Ebay. But these are the kind that has threads on the end. If anyone has a spare barrel please let me know, at this point I am not worried about color.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Senior Member Jon Szanto's Avatar
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    Default Re: Waterman taperite questions

    Quote Originally Posted by rcburgin View Post
    I'm hoping the adhesive is, as I've found in times past, just a surface type adhesive.
    Referencing the bolded part: are you speaking specifically of Taperites, or pens in general? Because the consensus is, and as I have found, that these pens did not get assembled using a release-type bond. I may have to go into the garage to look for the box that has the remnants and abandoned efforts, but IIRC you could see that the material had been softened, as you imply above, to create the adhesion. Very bad move.
    "When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick;
    and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

    ~ Benjamin Franklin

  3. #23
    Senior Member Jon Szanto's Avatar
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    Default Re: Waterman taperite questions

    Argh. Ok, I found the box! I can't do macros with my phone, so these are a couple of quick shots with an inexpensive USB microscope. The first two are the section, showing the nipple and portion that slides inside barrel, ending with the clutch ring. (I've altered the second image simply to highlight the artifacts)

    What you should notice is that to the left is the area where the sac was attached, and you can see the granular nature of the shellac that has crystallized and broken up as the sac remnants were removed; you can still chip this off with just your fingernail. To the right is the place where the section was glued into the barrel; removing this section caused a chunk of the barrel to break off and remain stuck to the section. In the photo the pieces of the section have been mostly removed, but you'll notice that in having to use an X-acto knife, the smooth nature of the glue used here is quite different from the shellac, and the barrel and section plastics were fused together, the way (for me) plastic model car and airplane parts became fused when using model glue as a kid (and probably knocking off a few brain cells along the way).

    As long as I had it set up, I took a pick of the nib, which is a nice, semi-flexible point. I'm hoping some day to smooth out the section area and find a barrel that is about right, or have one turned. The original, of course, is a lost cause.





    "When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick;
    and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

    ~ Benjamin Franklin

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Waterman taperite questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Linkinyeah View Post
    I don't have a ultrasonic cleaner, but I will try soaking. One of the posts above this suggested that heat will not do anything to help release the adhesive.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Strongly encourage you to get one... no need at all to spend a fortune, mine was around $20 on Amazon, does the job just fine.

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    Linkinyeah (July 25th, 2017)

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