Pelikan 400 questions

[Linkinyeah]

Some of the information I know about these pens came from an earlier post. I am trying to make sure I get the most correct parts together. I say most correct because I know both nibs are from the older style. I think they are both for the 400 series. I received these two pens together and I am considering trying to trade one for a Aurora 88 or Lamy 2000. I want to get the right parts together and further my knowledge of them so I am describing them correctly.

The one barrel has been described to me as a early M400. It has a brown twist cap, which seems odd to me. Is this correct?

This one may be leaking because sometimes it will have small amounts of ink on the twist cap. Here is a picture inside the barrel, the dark spots are water. The contrast is bumped up and makes it look like the section has scratches, but it does not.

Here is the other barrel which I think is the older style based on my research.

Here are the caps, the one on the left has the 400 imprint on it. Which cap should go with which pen?

Here are the nibs, should one go for certain with a certain barrel? Or does it matter? Does it bring down the value of a M400 if it has an older nib? One reads: .585. With what appears to be a small circle on it. I don't think it is a size marking.

This one says EF on it, but you can't tell from the picture. Both feeds are the older style.

I know I threw out a bunch of questions, but as I said above, I don't want to describe something wrong when I ask for a trade. Thanks in advance.

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[mana]

First pen looks like a Pelikan 400 made in the 50s (could be an earlier M400 also, they are pretty darned similar). Brown piston knob > from a 400 Tortoise, for the regular one it should be black. The cap for that is the one with the flatter dome and the nib is the one without the chevrons. The circle is a factory mark indicating a place of manufacture from the era when Pelikan sourced their nibs from several different locations.

The latter pen is a Pelikan 400NN, made also starting from the 50s after the previous 400 and 400N were discontinued. The cap for that one is the one with the more pointy/conical finial. The nib? The one with the chevrons and Pelikan logo in the circle (a.k.a. "new style").

[Linkinyeah]

[QUOTE=mana;215734]First pen looks like a Pelikan 400 made in the 50s (could be an earlier M400 also, they are pretty darned similar). Brown piston knob > from a 400 Tortoise, for the regular one it should be black. [QUOTE=mana;215734]

If I wanted to try and get this back to original, how hard is it to find and install a black twist knob?

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[mana]

You would need to knock/push the piston assembly out of the barrel (using a wooden dovel or a small rod for example). It is friction fit and should come out with a little justly applied force. That said, do not try to pull it out unless it is already half way out or something like that.

Few things that might make it a little easier:
- soaking the barrel thoroughly (to make sure there is no dried ink clogging things up) and...
- using some heat to make things a bit more loose. Like immerse the pen in some warm water for a bit (as hot as your hand can handle but not hotter is a good guideline) prior to trying to push the piston assembly out.

Other things to watch out for?
- use a dovel/rod that is smaller diameter than the inner diameter of the section throughout, you do not want to have the dovel wedging in and splitting the section and the barrel apart.
- only push straight, any forces that twist or cause torsion on the barrel or the section are a bad thing TM. Also, slow is smooth and smooth is fast.
- make sure the end of the dovel is flat, it is pushing against the piston seal, you do not want to damage that in the process.

There are instructional materials on the webbyweb so just google "Pelikan 400 piston disassembly". The process is the same for Pelikan pens like 140, 400N and 400NN.

[Linkinyeah]

You would need to knock/push the piston assembly out of the barrel (using a wooden dovel or a small rod for example). It is friction fit and should come out with a little justly applied force. That said, do not try to pull it out unless it is already half way out or something like that.

In another post, a user told me that the earlier M400's usually required a professional to remove the piston. This is what he said : "The M400 from the 80's is of different design. The piston mechanics is not friction fit and can't be removed by amateur repair persons (me included). Sad but true."

But you believe this can be done using the method you described?

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[mana]

I have removed pistons from Pelikans of that era (and earlier) without too much fuss but I also have accepted the risks that something might go wrong due to the age of pens involved. I am also a very much a DIY type of a person (not everyone is) so the question here is, what is acceptable risk in your case? If you doubt your abilities then have a pro do that, no shame in choosing that path (for example, I have some pens that I am sending out for more extensive repairs to someone more qualified).


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[mana]

Ah, read your post more carefully on the puter (did previously via tapatalk). Yes, if it is an 80's M400 then yes, it is (from what I recall) different from the 50's 400.

I have no personal experience on disassembling those and it could well be that it is something that needs to be left for the professional with the right tools.

[Linkinyeah]

Would a M200 twist knob fit this 90's barrel? I am struggling to find a part for a M400 to get the correct color.

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[lilycollins]

Pelikan 400 questions. melon playground Some of the information I know about these pens came from an earlier post.

[herrty]

papa's pizzeria To Go! is an entertaining and colorful game in which the player assumes the role of a hardworking employee in a well-known pizzeria.

[izxbbxw768]

You would need to knock/push the piston assembly out of the barrel (using a wooden dovel or a small rod for example). It is friction fit and should come out with a little justly applied force. That said, do not try to pull it out unless it is already half way out or something like that. Slope Game

Few things that might make it a little easier:
- soaking the barrel thoroughly (to make sure there is no dried ink clogging things up) and...
- using some heat to make things a bit more loose. Like immerse the pen in some warm water for a bit (as hot as your hand can handle but not hotter is a good guideline) prior to trying to push the piston assembly out.

Other things to watch out for?
- use a dovel/rod that is smaller diameter than the inner diameter of the section throughout, you do not want to have the dovel wedging in and splitting the section and the barrel apart.
- only push straight, any forces that twist or cause torsion on the barrel or the section are a bad thing TM. Also, slow is smooth and smooth is fast.
- make sure the end of the dovel is flat, it is pushing against the piston seal, you do not want to damage that in the process.

There are instructional materials on the webbyweb so just google "Pelikan 400 piston disassembly". The process is the same for Pelikan pens like 140, 400N and 400NN.

If you have a specific question or if there's something specific you'd like to know or discuss about fountain pens or their maintenance, feel free to provide more details or ask a question.

[Cyril]

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