I have a gray pen with a plain shirld on the bottom. Above that there is a shield with 1/10, 12K, G F.
I have a gray pen with a plain shirld on the bottom. Above that there is a shield with 1/10, 12K, G F.
We have met the enemy and he is us.
-Pogo
Besides the Heritage cap, I have a Legacy cap (nickel and silver rainbow). It is a subtle cap design.
Question. I have a 61 with a foil nib size tag, a scratchless body and cap. For all intents and purposes it is NOS. However, the foam pad on the end of the capillary is a denim blue instead of the normal red. Was there different colors of foam pad?
We have met the enemy and he is us.
-Pogo
Hawk (February 18th, 2018)
I have seen some mahagony boxes on ebay. There is on now with a rollerball for $265. Seems high to me. If I were to pick up a box, do you think value as a package would be high even though the certificate paper and #'s on the pens didn't match?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F152904594110
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Linkinyeah
Can you post some photography of your ' a first model 75 ciesel with the flat tassies and 0 ring. '
I would be very interested to look at it.
There a few different types, would like to see which one you have.
( Does it have clear or solid black lines )
Thanks
I have seen some mahagony boxes on ebay.
There is on now with a rollerball for $265. Seems high to me.
If I were to pick up a box, do you think value as a package would be high even though the certificate paper and #'s on the pens didn't match?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F152904594110
Now you sound like a serious collector.
I would not have bought this auction - forgive me but, a mahagony box looks very average and does not enhance your pen.
Do you have other Parker pens ?
Any photography would be great, I like looking at any Parker pens.
Can identify most that are post 1950, no matter how rare.
Last edited by proteus; February 19th, 2018 at 01:25 PM.
Two replies in one.
Hawk
‘Besides the Heritage cap, I have a Legacy cap (nickel and silver rainbow). It is a subtle cap design.
Question. I have a 61 with a foil nib size tag, a scratchless body and cap. For all intents and purposes it is NOS. However, the foam pad on the end of the capillary is a denim blue instead of the normal red. Was there different colors of foam pad? ‘
Newhaven were always very light pink.
Arrow Park Janesville were white
Never heard of denim blue ( I have assumed it is very light blue )
Post a photograph – I will ask an ex employee ( email ) who worked at Janesville during the early 1960’s
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Linkinyeah
Some photography please
Wish to identify what type of P75 Flat top you have.
There are two types
Last edited by proteus; February 20th, 2018 at 02:42 PM.
I will have to take pictures when I get home. One question though, I swapped the tassie and clip from my older model 75 to my newer one that didn't have a dent in the cap. I left everything else the same. The caps looked identical as far as imprints go and they both fit correctly. Is there really any harm in doing this? Am I wrong in thinking nobody would ever know a difference because the caps themselves, minus the hardware, were identical?
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Some pictures of the 75. I didn't polish the tassies, they usually look a lot better.
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Question. I have a 61 with a foil nib size tag, a scratchless body and cap. For all intents and purposes it is NOS. However, the foam pad on the end of the capillary is a denim blue instead of the normal red. Was there different colors of foam pad? ‘[/COLOR]
Newhaven were always very light pink.
Arrow Park Janesville were white
Never heard of denim blue ( I have assumed it is very light blue )
Post a photograph – I will ask an ex employee ( email ) who worked at Janesville during the early 1960’s.
Sorry for the size. Here it is:
We have met the enemy and he is us.
-Pogo
Hawk,
Have seen, worked on ( recently ) and owned over fifty Parker 61 Capillary pens.
I think your pen is a Janesville pen ( white ) that has been very lightly inked from the nib only to test - never filled from the end
Then the cap was replaced without the ink being cleaned - placed in an upright position - a very small amount of ink has then travelled through the capillary cell to the end
All the inked cell tips I have seen are very dark blue or very dark black - Totally inked upside down
Last edited by proteus; February 21st, 2018 at 02:30 PM.
Hawk (February 22nd, 2018)
Linkinyeah
Great looking pen
This is some buy of yours.
Can you tell me if the screw section is plastic or metal
It is a rare pen.
There were ones made without black lines - I am beginning to think they were just prototypes
Can I deal with this question later please
I will have to take pictures when I get home. One question though, I swapped the tassie and clip from my older model 75 to my newer one that didn't have a dent in the cap. I left everything else the same. The caps looked identical as far as imprints go and they both fit correctly. Is there really any harm in doing this? Am I wrong in thinking nobody would ever know a difference because the caps themselves, minus the hardware, were identical?
What are people's thoughts on this. I am doing a trade with someone for my 63 Extra Fine 75 nib for a medium, newer nib. It just has a M marked on it. They are both USA. I am also paying $24 in the exchange. Part of me feels like this is a bad deal, but I posted on this forum for nib trades and no response. I don't want to drop $60 on just buying a medium nib on ebay.
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On your nib trade you have not mentioned the condition of either nibs.
If both are the same condition your 63 nib is worth more than a 66 ( Medium ) because they are harder to find.
That having said you are trading because you do not want your nib and would prefer a 66 Medium.
From your words I have assumed that the 66 nib is in better condition than yours.
If it were me I would do the trade + $24 and be very pleased.
Linkinyeah (February 22nd, 2018)
I was waiting for others to make a comment – your post has 440 views
As for your question about swapping damaged parts for better ones.
Everyone has done it with pens they use, pen restorers do it all the time for customers.
My only caveat would be if you have an old pen and replaced with some NOS parts and then attempted to sell it as NOS.
I have bought pens in the past in that ‘upgraded ‘ condition and have felt very cheated, not by the sellers in my case because they had bought the pen in good faith – it was the dealer they bought it of – he changed the pen and sold it as something it is not.
My collection consists of a lot of NOS Parker pens – some have small handling marks others may not be popular or rare colours – I have never considered swapping parts to make a better and more expensive pen. For me it is an integrity issue.
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I added a comment to one of my replies ‘ I will ask an ex employee ( email ) who worked at Janesville during the early 1960’s ‘
Now that would have been very difficult – he would have to have been 90 years old + , and long gone to Pen Heaven.
My attempt at humour.
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Have attached a very concise chronological history of Parker 75
It is hardly definitive, I have not included the Rare or Gold / SS versions
I use it a header for my large file on Parker 75’s
Perhaps some may wish to use it as a simple guide.
Last edited by proteus; February 22nd, 2018 at 12:27 PM.
Linkinyeah (February 22nd, 2018), morningtundra (May 21st, 2018)
Linkinyeah
Forgive me for added this message on your post, just thought it would be a bit of fun
Anyone know about P51’s / P21’s
Have worked on a few each recently.
Saw this ebay auction this evening
Interesting pen.
Have to smile at the barrel marks.
I will send a coconut to anyone who can tell us all what pen the connector is from
There is a reason why the P21 Hoop filler is not fitted - there is not room for it.
The dates are good - 1961
Will buy it anyway.
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Learning to fly but I ain’t got wings – Tom Petty
Last edited by proteus; February 23rd, 2018 at 02:50 PM.
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