This was a special case where I bought a bunch of surplus Michel Perchin nibs from Richard Binder expressly for several Bexley pens I had bought this year. I don't remember precisely, but I'm sure Richard noted that they were #6 and would work on pens that take #6 nibs, that he would even mount them on Bexley or Edison feed units if desired (at extra cost). IIRC, I bought a small number and mounted them myself, but when I ordered several more, I had him mount them on Bexley feed units. So in this case I didn't even use the feed that came with the pen, just swapped out the thread-in Bexley units and tossed the entire nib unit that came with the pen in my now embarrassingly large supply of Bexley steel nib units.
However, in general, I do exactly that. I remove the feed and press the nib to it to see how it fits. The length and thickness must be sufficient for the nib to be held in securely, and the radius of curvature of the nib needs to match the feed, more or less. On a few occasions I have decreased the curvature of the nib to perfect the fit. I think this was the case with a Parker VS nib that I once installed on a Sheaffer No Nonsense pen. I do not recommend that. Increasing the radius of curvature is a risky move--might crack the nib, and it also induces an "inverted grand canyon" issue at the tip, which has to be adjusted out. In any case, even when the nib has the right radius of curvature for the feed, is long enough and the right thickness to be held securely without being so tight as to risk cracking the section, the feed usually has to be adjusted to fit the nib properly along its entire length. This is easy with ebonite feeds, but plastic feeds are slightly adjustable, too. I once fitted the nib from a slender Sheaffer Touchdown pen on a Cross Century II. The radius was right, but the feed angled away from the tines when it was installed. It was not easy to adjust it, but once I had it right, it was great.
Bookmarks