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Thread: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer TD Cadet 23

    I bought this Sheaffer TD Cadet 23 recently mainly because I wanted to try and service one. I had heard about how to do this from one of my penpals, who wrote about how she spent some time with the O-ring on one of these, and I couldn't help but wonder it would be like.

    This one came up at a reasonable price, while I had an ebay money off voucher to spend, so on an impulse I thought I would give it a go.

    When I received it I saw that the nib is 14ct gold, and looked in reasonably good condition. There are no cracks to the barrel or cap. I spotted some rubbing to the gold plated trim and the clip was loose. I thought it was a decent condition pen. At the time I knew absolutely nothing about Sheaffer clips....

    After some soaking in warm soapy water, I unscrewed the barrel from the section and after a bit more soaking, managed to unscrew the nib unit from the section. I unscrewed the blind cap off of the end of the barrel, noting there was a good condition rubber washer present. Then removed the plunger from the barrel. The nib unit, section and barrel went in the ultrasonic for 5 minutes.

    The sac cover wiggled off quite easily, and at this point I made the mistake of thinking all seemed to be going really well so far. That was until I noticed there was only the rim of the original sac left on the section nipple. I wondered if someone had already removed the sac, but then remembered there had been shellac on the section threads. So decided that was unlikely. Not much was visible when I looked inside the sac protector.

    I poked a slim tool inside the top of the sac protector and about half a solid plastic sac dropped out the other end. Mystery solved. There was a sac. Here began my first problem. The sac had dried to solid, hard plastic, that had welded itself to the inside of the sac protector. The brush that fit inside perfectly did nothing. Poking about with a tool also did nothing. I have various dental pick type tools, so at this stage I broke out a couple more and started prodding around inside the sac protector. Nada.. The main problem was that I couldn't see anything in there, and I even started to believe there might only be half a sac. No - not possible really.

    So I kept on prodding about with various tools and eventually Eureka. Some bits of plastic fell out. Once it had broken, more prodding eventually made the other half detach and drop out. Phew! At last I had an almost clean sac protector. The brush now worked to clean the inside of it properly. Phase one complete.

    Then I knew I had an old O-ring to remove from the barrel. OMG! This greeny white looking, flat object, that sat completely flush inside the O-ring channel was an O-ring??? I was almost at the stage of getting the Dremel out when I finally managed to break through it, so that I could lever it out in pieces! I don't know exactly what year this pen was made, but that was the original O-ring! Fossilised! I put the barrel back into the ultrasonic after removing it. Just to clean out the channel that was now empty.

    At this point I had gone as far as I could without the new sac and O-ring kit, from The Pendragons, that I had ordered when I received the pen. So I turned my attention to the cap and it's loose clip. Thank God I had the Repair Manual to refer to at this point. Otherwise I could easily have gone wrong. It told me that the clip couldn't be removed, and maybe a brass shim could be added in case there was a missing clip spring.

    Of course, there was a missing clip spring. Why wouldn't there be? If there wasn't, that would be too easy, right? So I got out my little light and saw that the back of the clip makes a sort of channel inside the cap, where the spring should be. The repair book said I could put a brass shim in there. The rest of my day was spent, having cut a piece of brass to what looked like approximately the right width, trying to poke about enough to shove it between the two sides of the clip inside the cap. Eventually I even managed it!!! I had to get OH to put his glasses on and check just to make sure. However, when I moved the clip, it wasn't tight enough. So, I thought, I need something else, that's a bit more springy, for the clip. I came up with a piece of aluminium from the top of a can. I know, it's a bit "out there," but I'm full of strange ideas. They may work and they may not - but I'm full of them! After getting OH to dig out an empty soup can lid from the recycling box, I set about cutting a tiny strip that was about 10mm long by 2mm wide from the lid. Actually, compared with the rest of this job, that wasn't the most difficult task!

    That happened at about 7am this morning. I've just had a glass of wine after finally getting that tiny aluminium strip between the two slides of the clip inside the cap. I had to sand it down and hammer it flat many times. So be warned: this is not an easy job! Get a cap with a decent clip before you undertake this sort of a repair. The clip on this pen now feels almost as good as the day it was made. Even if I say so myself!

    My sac and O-ring kit might arrive tomorrow or Tuesday. Everything else should be straight forward. Right? Look out for part 2.

    Sheaffer Cadet_0002.JPG
    Last edited by Chrissy; January 6th, 2019 at 11:51 AM.
    Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens

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    NibsForScript (January 6th, 2019), stub (January 8th, 2019)

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    Senior Member Paddler's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Straightforward? Only if you have an unsharpened pencil handy when you are trying to stuff that slippery o-ring into its channel in the barrel. Without that pencil, your vocabulary will astonish your family and scare the neighbors' children. As in: "Chrissy, where the hell did you learn words like that?"
    "Nothing is enough for the man to whom enough is too little." -Epicurus-

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    Senior Member FredRydr's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Wine for breakfast?

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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by Paddler View Post
    Straightforward? Only if you have an unsharpened pencil handy when you are trying to stuff that slippery o-ring into its channel in the barrel. Without that pencil, your vocabulary will astonish your family and scare the neighbors' children. As in: "Chrissy, where the hell did you learn words like that?"
    I already have the pencil ready for action. It's next to the silicone grease that is next to the small container that contains all of the pen pieces.
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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by FredRydr View Post
    Wine for breakfast?
    LOL, no that was lunch.
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    Senior Member whych's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    The easiest way of getting the o-ring into the body is by using the back of a drill bit. I think the size you need is around 8-10 mm - you want a bit that just fits the barrel.
    Get the o-ring started in the barrel (from the nib end) and then push it up the barrel using the back of the drill bit push it up till it goes into the groove on the inside of the barrel.

    To get the old pieces of sac out the sac protector, use a drill bit as a reamer to get them out.

    I have never tried it, but a guy on FPN reckons he used the spring from an old clock or clockwork toy to fix the cap clip.
    Last edited by whych; January 8th, 2019 at 02:11 AM.

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    Chrissy (January 8th, 2019)

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    Senior Member grainweevil's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    I await part 2 with baited breath, Chrissy. Although after your perseverance with the clip, it's possible the o-ring will seem small beer in comparison and you'll wonder what the fuss was about!

    Happily, and greatly to my surprise, my Cadet 23 came restored, but certainly the first attempt at a Snorkel o-ring gave me fits. It was a silicone-greased tussle of epic finickiness, until I finally realised the error of my ways and sought out a suitable length of dowel from the scraps box and fashioned a rudimentary o-ring installation tool. After that it was merely finicky on a general level. Purely by chance a second Snorkel and accompanying opportunity to engage in the o-ring waltz came my way, and proved that experience is a good teacher and there's nothing like having the right tools for the job. Much more pleasant an experience. I daresay after the first fifty or sixty one could get quite speedy...

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    Chrissy (January 8th, 2019)

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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Part 2 has happened, and you're right grainweevil, compared with the back of the clip, the O-ring was a doddle! It was a bit fiddly to get into the screw threads, but went nicely down into it's channel. The sac went onto the nipple easily, but the sac protector was very loose. In fact I had thought it was easy to remove. In the end I put a dab of shellac on the part where the sac protector fits and once it was on there I had to use a blunt pointed file as a punch to try to make the indentations a bit deeper so it would stay on.

    This morning I've been helping OH to prune our tree out front. Will take pics of the reassembled pen soon
    Last edited by Chrissy; January 8th, 2019 at 04:14 AM.
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by whych View Post
    The easiest way of getting the o-ring into the body is by using the back of a drill bit. I think the size you need is around 8-10 mm - you want a bit that just fits the barrel.
    Get the o-ring started in the barrel (from the nib end) and then push it up the barrel using the back of the drill bit push it up till it goes into the groove on the inside of the barrel.

    To get the old pieces of sac out the sac protector, use a drill bit as a reamer to get them out.

    I have never tried it, but a guy on FPN reckons he used the spring from an old clock or clockwork toy to fix the cap clip.
    I was using a pencil, and that seemed to work. Although I started at the top of the barrel when maybe I should have started at the other end. Maybe a drill bit would have been better. One would definitely have been better for cleaning the inside of the sac protector! I wish I had thought of that. In fact OH mentioned drill bits, but I never expanded on the idea.

    I thought that a piece of broken spring from a clockwork toy would be the perfect piece of metal for the back of the clip. It's probably a good job that I had no clockwork toys around to break in case there was one inside! My piece of metal from the soup can lid seems to have made it tight. Not sure which would be more bendy. This piece of tin is definitely less bendy than the brass shim suggested in the repair manual. I never thought of an old clock, but I don't have any of those either.
    Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens

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    Senior Member Deb's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Great repair, Chrissy - well done! When old sacs are stuck to metal or the interior of a barrel, I use naphtha to soften and remove them.
    Regards,
    Deb
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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by Deb View Post
    Great repair, Chrissy - well done! When old sacs are stuck to metal or the interior of a barrel, I use naphtha to soften and remove them.
    Thanks Deb. I'm not sure about exactly what naphtha is, but I suppose I could have used my IDA. Never thought of that. Doh! On the other hand it might have evaporated before softening the hard sac.

    Here it is: All back together again and writing very nicely.

    Sheaffer Cadet_0004a.jpg
    Last edited by Chrissy; January 8th, 2019 at 08:41 AM.
    Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens

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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrissy View Post
    I was using a pencil, and that seemed to work. Although I started at the top of the barrel when maybe I should have started at the other end. Maybe a drill bit would have been better. One would definitely have been better for cleaning the inside of the sac protector! I wish I had thought of that. In fact OH mentioned drill bits, but I never expanded on the idea.

    I thought that a piece of broken spring from a clockwork toy would be the perfect piece of metal for the back of the clip. It's probably a good job that I had no clockwork toys around to break in case there was one inside! My piece of metal from the soup can lid seems to have made it tight. Not sure which would be more bendy. This piece of tin is definitely less bendy than the brass shim suggested in the repair manual. I never thought of an old clock, but I don't have any of those either.
    Sorry, I only saw your post today, or I would have answered sooner.
    Using the drill bit to get the old sac out works well for snorkel tubes that have also become rusty.

    Most common form/source for naphtha is lighter fluid.

    Are you now an expert on replacing/repairing old Sheaffer clips? (My US made Cadet 23 also has a broken clip spring that I have never got to fixing.)

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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by whych View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Chrissy View Post
    I was using a pencil, and that seemed to work. Although I started at the top of the barrel when maybe I should have started at the other end. Maybe a drill bit would have been better. One would definitely have been better for cleaning the inside of the sac protector! I wish I had thought of that. In fact OH mentioned drill bits, but I never expanded on the idea.

    I thought that a piece of broken spring from a clockwork toy would be the perfect piece of metal for the back of the clip. It's probably a good job that I had no clockwork toys around to break in case there was one inside! My piece of metal from the soup can lid seems to have made it tight. Not sure which would be more bendy. This piece of tin is definitely less bendy than the brass shim suggested in the repair manual. I never thought of an old clock, but I don't have any of those either.
    Sorry, I only saw your post today, or I would have answered sooner.
    Using the drill bit to get the old sac out works well for snorkel tubes that have also become rusty.

    Most common form/source for naphtha is lighter fluid.

    Are you now an expert on replacing/repairing old Sheaffer clips? (My US made Cadet 23 also has a broken clip spring that I have never got to fixing.)
    I haven't attempted a Snorkel yet, but you never know. The Cadet/Craftsman looked fairly straightforward.

    As long as your clip is only loose, and has no spring, then once you have the piece of metal that is about 10mm by 2mm, it's a case of holding that firmly in a pair of fine pliers/forceps, (mine lock into position,) and pushing the end of the metal towards the channel that the clip edges make inside the cap. Much of the time-consuming part is getting a piece of metal that is the right thickness, that is quite springy, but doesn't bend as soon as you move the clip. Then you have to offer it up to the edges of the channel and push while pushing the clip from the outside. It's obviously completely hopeless if it just bends and doesn't go into the channel.

    I eventually did it twice with different thicknesses of brass shim, then once with the piece of can.

    I forgot all about getting the small cap clutch out. That's like a half a ball of rubbery plastic, that you have to push to one side before pulling out.
    Last edited by Chrissy; January 8th, 2019 at 02:20 PM.
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    Senior Member Deb's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrissy View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Deb View Post
    Great repair, Chrissy - well done! When old sacs are stuck to metal or the interior of a barrel, I use naphtha to soften and remove them.
    Thanks Deb. I'm not sure about exactly what naphtha is, but I suppose I could have used my IDA. Never thought of that. Doh! On the other hand it might have evaporated before softening the hard sac.
    The most usual form of naphtha is lighter fuel - it's getting less common but the Ronson variety is still around.
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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Quote Originally Posted by Deb View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Chrissy View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Deb View Post
    Great repair, Chrissy - well done! When old sacs are stuck to metal or the interior of a barrel, I use naphtha to soften and remove them.
    Thanks Deb. I'm not sure about exactly what naphtha is, but I suppose I could have used my IDA. Never thought of that. Doh! On the other hand it might have evaporated before softening the hard sac.
    The most usual form of naphtha is lighter fuel - it's getting less common but the Ronson variety is still around.
    Would IDA be OK for that job?
    Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens

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    Senior Member Deb's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    [/QUOTE]
    Would IDA be OK for that job?[/QUOTE]

    Forgive my ignorance Chrissy - I don't know what IDA is.
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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    Would IDA be OK for that job?[/QUOTE]

    Forgive my ignorance Chrissy - I don't know what IDA is.[/QUOTE]
    Oh sorry. Industrial Denatured Alcohol. Clear Methylated Spirits. I used it every day when I was restoring ceramics, and still use it regularly for cleaning inks and some plastic or metal on modern pens.
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    Senior Member Deb's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Service/Repair of an Australian Sheaffer Cadet 23

    I don't think I would risk that, Chrissy. Alcohol doesn't get on well with some plastics.
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