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Thread: Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

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    Default Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

    This pen operates by either twisting the chrome piece that holds the eraser or the cap if posted. The fist photo shows a metal rod that is inside the tube that I assume holds the 9mm lead. The lead is not held in place. And, I assume the lead cannot be loaded by removing the eraser and dropping down the tube as other pencils. Any information or advice is appreciated. I didn't pay much, but I would like for it to work. Thank you.
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    Default Re: Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

    The split part of the tube is supposed to be the right diameter to grip a 0.9mm "thin" lead, the solid rod that you see sticking out of that tube ejects the last little stub of lead when it's too short to write with anymore: when the lead won't advance any farther, the spent stub will usually fall out of the end of the pencil if tapped lightly.

    Advancing and retracting the lead is done by turning the metal "cap" in either direction. The eraser cover (cap) friction fits on to the actual mechanism barrel, which is a chromed brass tube. Sometimes these won't advance or retract well if the cap doesn't grip the inner tube well enough, so if the cap seems to spin freely, or slides on/off very easily that may be a problem... Under the eraser there is a space around the inner propelling mechanism where you can store extra leads.

    To fill a pencil like this, retract the mechanism all the way, then slide a lead into the cone (which you need to screw back on firmly for the pencil to work), then if there isn't any lead visible, advance the mechanism until about 1mm of lead is poking out of the cone/tip, now gently press the lead straight against a hard surface, it should have some resistance, but if all is well it will push back into the "clutch" (split tube) and be held there.

    I would test fit a piece of lead before reassembling this pencil, retract the ejector fully, but not the clutch tube, then see if it grips a .9mm lead, it should be firm, but not tight enough to damage the lead as you insert it. If it's too loose you can carefully tighten the end of the clutch tube opening with a pair of small smooth jaw pliers, hemostats, or even robust tweezers, it doesn't take much force at all to bend the tiny brass tube, so be gentle. If you do need to make an adjustment, I suggest doing it with the ejector out, so as to minimize the chance of crushing the clutch tube.

    Parker propel/repel pencils aren't as robust as some of the other makers, pencil mechanisms of this type and in my experience are more common to find worn so that the mechanism is sloppy or doesn't function, I've also seen the inner metal sleeve detatch from the threaded and splined nose piece of the mechanism. They can often be repaired, but it requires both precision and finesse.
    Last edited by awa54; February 28th, 2020 at 07:28 PM.
    David-

    So many restoration projects...

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    Chuck Naill (February 28th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

    Quote Originally Posted by awa54 View Post
    The split part of the tube is supposed to be the right diameter to grip a 0.9mm "thin" lead, the solid rod that you see sticking out of that tube ejects the last little stub of lead when it's too short to write with anymore: when the lead won't advance any farther, the spent stub will usually fall out of the end of the pencil if tapped lightly.

    Advancing and retracting the lead is done by turning the metal "cap" in either direction. The eraser cover (cap) friction fits on to the actual mechanism barrel, which is a chromed brass tube. Sometimes these won't advance or retract well if the cap doesn't grip the inner tube well enough, so if the cap seems to spin freely, or slides on/off very easily that may be a problem... Under the eraser there is a space around the inner propelling mechanism where you can store extra leads.

    To fill a pencil like this, retract the mechanism all the way, then slide a lead into the cone (which you need to screw back on firmly for the pencil to work), then if there isn't any lead visible, advance the mechanism until about 1mm of lead is poking out of the cone/tip, now gently press the lead straight against a hard surface, it should have some resistance, but if all is well it will push back into the "clutch" (split tube) and be held there.

    I would test fit a piece of lead before reassembling this pencil, retract the ejector fully, but not the clutch tube, then see if it grips a .9mm lead, it should be firm, but not tight enough to damage the lead as you insert it. If it's too loose you can carefully tighten the end of the clutch tube opening with a pair of small smooth jaw pliers, hemostats, or even robust tweezers, it doesn't take much force at all to bend the tiny brass tube, so be gentle. If you do need to make an adjustment, I suggest doing it with the ejector out, so as to minimize the chance of crushing the clutch tube.

    Parker propel/repel pencils aren't as robust as some of the other makers, pencil mechanisms of this type and in my experience are more common to find worn so that the mechanism is sloppy or doesn't function, I've also seen the inner metal sleeve detatch from the threaded and splined nose piece of the mechanism. They can often be repaired, but it requires both precision and finesse.
    Thank you, I will do as you say and try to tighten using the method you describe.

    The plastic was formerly the dark blue to match the FP I think after reading Binder's resource. He said the plastic darkened over time to near black. I am not sure why the cap is so tight, but I think I could loosen a bit with gentle use of 220 wet dry sand paper. Agree?? When I go the pen the old eraser was stuck in the cap. I had to remove the jewel and clip to push through the other side carefully not damaging the threads.

    I am happy, very pleased to report that your instructions worked beautifully to advance and hold the 9mm Pentel lead. You've made this pen useable. I am very appreciative.
    Last edited by Chuck Naill; February 28th, 2020 at 07:49 PM.

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

    Excellent!

    I have a ton of vintage mechanical pencils, it's easier to find rare colors and well preserved celluloids in a pencil and much cheaper too!

    I'd avoid sanding anything, the metal in that tube is thin and old brass can be brittle, maybe a tiny amount of silicone grease on the sleeve, or steel wool to smooth it if the surface is rough? Remember the cap is supposed to be a pretty firm interference fit, too loose and it might slip when attempting to move the lead.
    David-

    So many restoration projects...

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    Chuck Naill (February 29th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

    Quote Originally Posted by awa54 View Post
    Excellent!

    I have a ton of vintage mechanical pencils, it's easier to find rare colors and well preserved celluloids in a pencil and much cheaper too!

    I'd avoid sanding anything, the metal in that tube is thin and old brass can be brittle, maybe a tiny amount of silicone grease on the sleeve, or steel wool to smooth it if the surface is rough? Remember the cap is supposed to be a pretty firm interference fit, too loose and it might slip when attempting to move the lead.
    Good point about leaving the inside of the cap alone. I made a new eraser, but I don't intend to use it. I've thought of getting a Pink Pearl and making one similar to the correct color. Thank you again, sir.

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Twist Mechanical Pencil Question

    I have it

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