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Thread: Parker Pencil Repair

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    Default Parker Pencil Repair

    Not sure what's the problem and not sure how to load. This pencil came with spare lead under the eraser, but cannot load top to bottom and does not load from bottom. This is a twist type. Any comments welcome and appreciated.
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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Deb may possibly be able to assist with this. I know she repairs pencils. Hopefully she will see this thread.
    Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens

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    Chuck Naill (March 14th, 2020)

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    Senior Member Deb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Sorry, I can repair some pencils but I'm no expert and I've never worked on Parker pencils. Jon Veley's the man you want.
    Regards,
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    Chuck Naill (March 14th, 2020)

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Deb View Post
    Sorry, I can repair some pencils but I'm no expert and I've never worked on Parker pencils. Jon Veley's the man you want.
    Thank you Deb. From what I've read it probably not repairable without buying replacement parts. Since it was a $7 pencil I might need to consider it a parts pen.

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    This pencil loads by twisting the cap clockwise until the end (have read that they break easily, so caution is suggested)
    Then turn the cap a turn or two counter clockwise
    Insert a lead from the tip
    Continue twisting the cap counter clockwise until the lead is fully retracted into the pencil

    Hope this helps

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    I have only limited experience but I have een told that most problems are caused by pieces of broken lead inside the mechanism or even just lead dust. Before the pencil goes for parts I would try blowing through the works as best you can, possibly using compressed air and/or some thin wire

    BTW, I have been caught out with leads supplied with old pencils that are the wrong size, a .7 lead will never been taken up by a pencil requiring .9mm.

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    That pencil should be very close in construction and function to the other you posted about. Does the propel/repel mechanism move at all, or is it jammed hard? If it feels, or sounds like metal on metal when you try to turn the mechanism, it may need actual repair, if not the suggestion that it's jammed by stray bits of lead is probably spot-on.

    If you remove all the spare leads and then tap the mechanism tail down on a desk or pad of paper, you may be able to shake any small pieces of lead loose from the helicoid and get it working again. For the most part these mechanisms aren't meant to be serviced, so taking them apart and especially reassembling is usually a PITA.

    I've also seen mechanisms with jammed or broken ejector rods, probably due to using poorly sized leads, it can be fixed in some cases... Removing jams can be done with correctly sized drill bits, or sometimes a pin if they're soft enough. David Nishimura of Vintage Pens sells the drill bits.
    David-

    So many restoration projects...

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by awa54 View Post
    That pencil should be very close in construction and function to the other you posted about. Does the propel/repel mechanism move at all, or is it jammed hard? If it feels, or sounds like metal on metal when you try to turn the mechanism, it may need actual repair, if not the suggestion that it's jammed by stray bits of lead is probably spot-on.

    If you remove all the spare leads and then tap the mechanism tail down on a desk or pad of paper, you may be able to shake any small pieces of lead loose from the helicoid and get it working again. For the most part these mechanisms aren't meant to be serviced, so taking them apart and especially reassembling is usually a PITA.

    I've also seen mechanisms with jammed or broken ejector rods, probably due to using poorly sized leads, it can be fixed in some cases... Removing jams can be done with correctly sized drill bits, or sometimes a pin if they're soft enough. David Nishimura of Vintage Pens sells the drill bits.
    I ran a mandolin and guitar strings bottom to top and no lead or dust, but was not able to push the stings through to where the eraser would set. Interesting, there is a small brass cap that would fit over the top of the brass section.

    Unlike the old '40's pencil, the chrome and brass parts are held together. Everything is un good shape. Nice pen otherwise. The own must have damaged the part that holds the lead.

    My oldest daughter prefers pencils and I've found and giver her a blue Esterbrook. She likes blue so this was going to her. I'm sure I will find her one soon. Thank you as always.

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Naill View Post

    I ran a mandolin and guitar strings bottom to top and no lead or dust, but was not able to push the stings through to where the eraser would set. Interesting, there is a small brass cap that would fit over the top of the brass section.

    Unlike the old '40's pencil, the chrome and brass parts are held together. Everything is un good shape. Nice pen otherwise. The own must have damaged the part that holds the lead.

    My oldest daughter prefers pencils and I've found and giver her a blue Esterbrook. She likes blue so this was going to her. I'm sure I will find her one soon. Thank you as always.

    The string can't pass all the way through, the propelling mechanism blocks it.

    If you're saying that the threaded brass part that the cone/tip screws to isn't connected to the long chrome plated tube that encloses the mechanism, then that means your old pencil is broken... I've seen at least two Parker pencils have this issue, the open end of the chromed tube (also brass in most cases) that joins the threaded brass colored part cracks and loses its crimped connection to that part. I fixed mine by using low temperature electronics solder to re-connect them.
    David-

    So many restoration projects...

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by awa54 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Naill View Post

    I ran a mandolin and guitar strings bottom to top and no lead or dust, but was not able to push the stings through to where the eraser would set. Interesting, there is a small brass cap that would fit over the top of the brass section.

    Unlike the old '40's pencil, the chrome and brass parts are held together. Everything is un good shape. Nice pen otherwise. The own must have damaged the part that holds the lead.

    My oldest daughter prefers pencils and I've found and giver her a blue Esterbrook. She likes blue so this was going to her. I'm sure I will find her one soon. Thank you as always.

    The string can't pass all the way through, the propelling mechanism blocks it.

    If you're saying that the threaded brass part that the cone/tip screws to isn't connected to the long chrome plated tube that encloses the mechanism, then that means your old pencil is broken... I've seen at least two Parker pencils have this issue, the open end of the chromed tube (also brass in most cases) that joins the threaded brass colored part cracks and loses its crimped connection to that part. I fixed mine by using low temperature electronics solder to re-connect them.
    This one is connected. What I meant to say, this Parker has the chrome sleeve crimped on the side in two places to the brass mechanism unlike the 51. The old one works because I can push it into place. Thank you again for the feedback.

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Naill View Post

    This one is connected. What I meant to say, this Parker has the chrome sleeve crimped on the side in two places to the brass mechanism unlike the 51. The old one works because I can push it into place. Thank you again for the feedback.

    If you can separate the chromed outer sleeve from the brass colored and threaded end of your older Parker pencil, it's broken. The newer pencil is just a revised version, at least as far as the basic pattern and operational principal, it also probably has a revised design to prevent the sleeve from losing its crimped on contact with the operating mechanism.

    I have just a few Parker pencils in my collection, for exactly that reason... Sheaffer, Eversharp and Autopoint pencils are all very rugged and seem to stand the test of time well, Waterman and Parker not so much.
    David-

    So many restoration projects...

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Hi David,
    I'm pleased to see that there's someone here with a knowledge of pencils and their repair. I love mechanical pencils but I struggle with their repair. Of course most of my pencils are British but I expect the mechanisms will be similar.
    Regards,
    Deb
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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    stupid question

    Is repairing such things really worth it ?
    I am Autistic, Aspergers, so I apologize if I occasionally post without thinking (as in speak without .....) no rudeness is ever intended Thanks

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jrthemoon View Post
    stupid question

    Is repairing such things really worth it ?
    I think so. In working condition (as most of them are) they are as useful as the day they were made. Pencils are not as popular as pens but I believe they are equally admirable writing instruments with a history and development of their own. When I can, I restore Mabie Todd Fyne Poynt pencils to sell as part of a set with their matching fountain pens. There are mechanical pencil collectors.
    Regards,
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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Mechanical pencils are lovely things. Arguably better than 'real' pencils as they never need sharpening.

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by awa54 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Naill View Post

    This one is connected. What I meant to say, this Parker has the chrome sleeve crimped on the side in two places to the brass mechanism unlike the 51. The old one works because I can push it into place. Thank you again for the feedback.

    If you can separate the chromed outer sleeve from the brass colored and threaded end of your older Parker pencil, it's broken. The newer pencil is just a revised version, at least as far as the basic pattern and operational principal, it also probably has a revised design to prevent the sleeve from losing its crimped on contact with the operating mechanism.

    I have just a few Parker pencils in my collection, for exactly that reason... Sheaffer, Eversharp and Autopoint pencils are all very rugged and seem to stand the test of time well, Waterman and Parker not so much.
    Okay it is broken, but all I am saying is that it works. If you want newer version and live in the US, I will give it to you for parts.

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by jrthemoon View Post
    stupid question

    Is repairing such things really worth it ?
    Are you hiding behind your diagnosis?

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Deb View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jrthemoon View Post
    stupid question

    Is repairing such things really worth it ?
    I think so. In working condition (as most of them are) they are as useful as the day they were made. Pencils are not as popular as pens but I believe they are equally admirable writing instruments with a history and development of their own. When I can, I restore Mabie Todd Fyne Poynt pencils to sell as part of a set with their matching fountain pens. There are mechanical pencil collectors.
    Thanks

    By the way I USE a pencil

    .
    I am Autistic, Aspergers, so I apologize if I occasionally post without thinking (as in speak without .....) no rudeness is ever intended Thanks

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Hi Deb and Chuck,

    I agree that pencils definitely get less love than they deserve, the better ones are amazing workhorses that are utilitarian, but come in all the same finishes that the pens did, so if you want some RHR, RMHR, or desireable celluloid patterns, the pencils are much more attainable than the pens, at least price wise.

    Chuck, the older pencil can probably be soldered, or epoxied so that there isn't a risk of pulling the mechanism apart when you remove the "cap" to gain eraser and lead storage access. Epoxy will be easier, but not as strong. As far as the later pencil (match for a 21 super or 51 special?) I'd have no use for it, but it may still be salvageable.

    I have actually re-built the propelling and ejection carriers in a couple pencils, but it's very exacting work and my repairs, made with high strength mechanical solder aren't as strong as the original brass parts were before they wore out. I would never claim to be an expert, or to have skills worth selling as a service!


    jrthemoon,

    If you're mechanically inclined and have a good selection of micro-tools or jewelers' tools, then it can be fun to work on older pencils, just don't jump in on a rare or valuable one... as far as repair by a professional, it may be cheaper to hunt for parts pencils than to repair a broken one
    David-

    So many restoration projects...

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    Default Re: Parker Pencil Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by awa54 View Post
    Hi Deb and Chuck,

    I agree that pencils definitely get less love than they deserve, the better ones are amazing workhorses that are utilitarian, but come in all the same finishes that the pens did, so if you want some RHR, RMHR, or desireable celluloid patterns, the pencils are much more attainable than the pens, at least price wise.

    Chuck, the older pencil can probably be soldered, or epoxied so that there isn't a risk of pulling the mechanism apart when you remove the "cap" to gain eraser and lead storage access. Epoxy will be easier, but not as strong. As far as the later pencil (match for a 21 super or 51 special?) I'd have no use for it, but it may still be salvageable.

    I have actually re-built the propelling and ejection carriers in a couple pencils, but it's very exacting work and my repairs, made with high strength mechanical solder aren't as strong as the original brass parts were before they wore out. I would never claim to be an expert, or to have skills worth selling as a service!


    jrthemoon,

    If you're mechanically inclined and have a good selection of micro-tools or jewelers' tools, then it can be fun to work on older pencils, just don't jump in on a rare or valuable one... as far as repair by a professional, it may be cheaper to hunt for parts pencils than to repair a broken one
    I found another early 51 pencil incoming. I hope it works...LOL!! I'll send it to my pencil loving daughter is so. That's fine if you don't need it. I'll hold onto it for a future need.

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