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Thread: Parker 51 Pan American Green

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Quote Originally Posted by welch View Post
    Well, I blame everyone here because last night, while "EBaying after midnight", I must have bought a half-bottle of Superchome Blue. Will put it into an aerometric P-51 and see what it looks like. (And then flush it). A 51 aero is pretty easy to squish clean, and, best I can tell, Superchrome only hurt silver breather tubes, and then only over time. Might also be a good excuse to disassemble the 51.
    I have Bottle of 51 Tunis blue on the way. And i plan in the future to try and get one of each of the red and black as well as all of the Superchrome colours at this point it’s just a matter of prioritizing my ebay purchases.

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    Senior Member azkid's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Eager to see the reviews.

    I for one would find any excuse not to disassemble a 51... Now that I've had the "pleasure" of doing it to a few 21s (because masochism + foolishness).

    Eventually I realized I could use a non-contact thermometer along with the hot air reflow station to precisely increase temps to soften the shellac without softening the plastic. The temp difference between those two points is rather narrow.

    So anyway I can do it, now, reliably without distorting the hood in the slightest but if it ain't broke...

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Quote Originally Posted by azkid View Post
    Eager to see the reviews.

    I for one would find any excuse not to disassemble a 51... Now that I've had the "pleasure" of doing it to a few 21s (because masochism + foolishness).

    Eventually I realized I could use a non-contact thermometer along with the hot air reflow station to precisely increase temps to soften the shellac without softening the plastic. The temp difference between those two points is rather narrow.

    So anyway I can do it, now, reliably without distorting the hood in the slightest but if it ain't broke...
    For stubborn 51s i use hot water (digital readout kettle). But that’s because lucite is an amazing plastic . Polystyrene... not so much

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    Senior Member welch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    I also use hot water. I bring it to a boil, then let it cool a bit. Once I tried a heat gun on an Esterbrook J, after watching Pendleton Brown casually wave a P-51 across the gun's hot air, and, sloosh, the shellac melted and he unscrewed the hood. I scorched my Estie. Never again, although I did lose my temper at a Wearever that seemed to have had it's section glued to the barrel. There was a sudden puff of smoke and...

    Anyway, I've had a P-51 Vac on which the seller cleverly disguised a chunk taken out of the hood -- he or someone had sand-papered and polished the DING (that's a large "ding") so it didn't show from the angle he photographed. Has, also, a weird looking shortened nib. I also have a beautiful 51 Vac with a nice medium-fine nib and a barrel that isn't right. Blind cap pulled half the threads out the last time I tried to fill it. Figure I can get one good pen from the two, and might "investigate" the insides of the junker.

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    Senior Member azkid's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Yeah I found one has to keep the hot air reaching the pen low enough not to melt or scorch. And it's important to rotate the pen and distribute the hot air evenly. What seems to work for me is pausing periodically to let the heat soak into the inside of the pen.

    The distance to the source of the hot air makes a difference in temp. And you have to keep in mind that the time required to bring the shellac inside the pen to desired temp depends on heat conduction of the plastic, the difference in temp between the material and the hot air source.

    So the trick is to use air temp not too hot to melt or scorch the plastic, but hot enough that it doesn't take forever. The non-contact thermometer helps me ensure I'm not overheating the plastic.

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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Quote Originally Posted by welch View Post
    I also use hot water. I bring it to a boil, then let it cool a bit. Once I tried a heat gun on an Esterbrook J, after watching Pendleton Brown casually wave a P-51 across the gun's hot air, and, sloosh, the shellac melted and he unscrewed the hood. I scorched my Estie. Never again, although I did lose my temper at a Wearever that seemed to have had it's section glued to the barrel. There was a sudden puff of smoke and...

    Anyway, I've had a P-51 Vac on which the seller cleverly disguised a chunk taken out of the hood -- he or someone had sand-papered and polished the DING (that's a large "ding") so it didn't show from the angle he photographed. Has, also, a weird looking shortened nib. I also have a beautiful 51 Vac with a nice medium-fine nib and a barrel that isn't right. Blind cap pulled half the threads out the last time I tried to fill it. Figure I can get one good pen from the two, and might "investigate" the insides of the junker.
    sounds like you could make one GOOD pen, and one BEATER pen

    Just unscrew the two hoods, swap over the collectors and nibs, screw on the hoods, on different pens and poof done. One good one, one beater you can abuse and try stuff on, but still know its a 51

    Also, IIRC hot water = VERY bad for ebonite, actually, water in general bad for ebonite, turns it brown i think...
    and for some reason i want to say its not particularly good for celluloid either...

    lucite? lucite is bomb proof all pens should be made of lucite... wonder if i can get a lucite snorkel made...

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  11. #27
    Senior Member welch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Quote Originally Posted by INeedAFinancialAdvisor View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by welch View Post
    I also use hot water. I bring it to a boil, then let it cool a bit. Once I tried a heat gun on an Esterbrook J, after watching Pendleton Brown casually wave a P-51 across the gun's hot air, and, sloosh, the shellac melted and he unscrewed the hood. I scorched my Estie. Never again, although I did lose my temper at a Wearever that seemed to have had it's section glued to the barrel. There was a sudden puff of smoke and...

    Anyway, I've had a P-51 Vac on which the seller cleverly disguised a chunk taken out of the hood -- he or someone had sand-papered and polished the DING (that's a large "ding") so it didn't show from the angle he photographed. Has, also, a weird looking shortened nib. I also have a beautiful 51 Vac with a nice medium-fine nib and a barrel that isn't right. Blind cap pulled half the threads out the last time I tried to fill it. Figure I can get one good pen from the two, and might "investigate" the insides of the junker.
    sounds like you could make one GOOD pen, and one BEATER pen

    Just unscrew the two hoods, swap over the collectors and nibs, screw on the hoods, on different pens and poof done. One good one, one beater you can abuse and try stuff on, but still know its a 51

    Also, IIRC hot water = VERY bad for ebonite, actually, water in general bad for ebonite, turns it brown i think...
    and for some reason i want to say its not particularly good for celluloid either...

    lucite? lucite is bomb proof all pens should be made of lucite... wonder if i can get a lucite snorkel made...

    I intend to swap the nib and hood from one pen and junk, or play with, what's left. It would need a new barrel and would take some work to get the filler box and plunger out of the broken barrel part. And then more work to get everything into a new barrel, once I found a matching cedar-blue 51 Vac barrel. Not worth it. Feed and collector seems good on the pen with the nip taken out of the hood, so that will be the keeper.

    **

    EBay says I just received my bottle of Superchrome Blue. Experiment time soon!

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  13. #28
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    Default Re: Parker 51 Pan American Green

    Filler mechs aren’t free. May be worth it to try and save it from the junk barrel

    Very sad that a cedar blue is dead. It is by far my fav colour

    “51” barrels can be found on “the bay” often for decent prices, especially if you live in the states.

    Good luck

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