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Thread: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

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    Default Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    Good day/night FP friends!

    Just want to ask a few quick questions about Pelikan piston filler fountain pens:

    1. Are the piston filling mechanism and instructions the same across all models, i.e. the M series from M200/205 to M1000/1005? I noticed that the piston threads look a bit different, e.g. the M205 and the M805.
    2. Is there supposed to be a slight "step-up" near the piston knob at the end of the pen? I.e. when the pen is capped, when you move your finger across the pen from the end of the pen to where the nib-side is, there is a slight "step-up" at the piston end and it's not completely smooth. If so, would you consider this a design flaw?
    3. Do you have to lubricate the Pelikan piston on a regularly basis? And how/where? Some people online say you do, some say you don't. Some say use silicon grease, some say never use silicon grease.

    Sorry guys, please be patient with me! I am a Pelikan noob.

    Thanks and have a lovely day. Carpe Diem.

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    Default Re: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    Hi!

    1. Instructions and mechanism? The mode and method of function is the same (as in, how you operate them for filling the pen). Differences? M1XX to M7XX filling mechanisms are friction fit and made of plastic. Those can not be taken apart without risking permanent damage/destruction. With the M8XX-M1XXX pens the filling mechanism is in part made out of brass (the housing itself) and the housing is threaded into the barrel. So, those filling mechanisms can be removed from the barrel just by screwing them out counterclockwise.

    2. Yes, that applies to all modern (M-series) pens. Vintage ones? M&K are the exceptions but yeah, let's forget those for now.

    3. No. Lubricate when needed (i.e. when the piston starts feeling sticky) by cleaning the pen thoroughly, then unscrewing the nib unit and swabbing some silicon grease to the inside of the barrel with a Q-tip/cotton swab through that aperture/opening. You do not need much silicone grease btw. Just enough to make the piston move up and down smoothly (so experiment with little and add more if needed).

    And yes... Carpe Diem, indeed!

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    Default Re: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    Quote Originally Posted by mana View Post
    Hi!

    1. Instructions and mechanism? The mode and method of function is the same (as in, how you operate them for filling the pen). Differences? M1XX to M7XX filling mechanisms are friction fit and made of plastic. Those can not be taken apart without risking permanent damage/destruction. With the M8XX-M1XXX pens the filling mechanism is in part made out of brass (the housing itself) and the housing is threaded into the barrel. So, those filling mechanisms can be removed from the barrel just by screwing them out counterclockwise.

    2. Yes, that applies to all modern (M-series) pens. Vintage ones? M&K are the exceptions but yeah, let's forget those for now.

    3. No. Lubricate when needed (i.e. when the piston starts feeling sticky) by cleaning the pen thoroughly, then unscrewing the nib unit and swabbing some silicon grease to the inside of the barrel with a Q-tip/cotton swab through that aperture/opening. You do not need much silicone grease btw. Just enough to make the piston move up and down smoothly (so experiment with little and add more if needed).

    And yes... Carpe Diem, indeed!
    Thank you so much for the quick reply

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    Default Re: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    1. All Pelikan pistons work pretty much the same. However, the m800 & m1000 piston units are threaded into the barrel and can be replaced or removed relatively easily. The others are friction fit. The m800 & m1000 units have brass threads, while the rest are all plastic.

    2. There is a slight step up on Pelikans. To my knowledge, all the pens modeled after the original 1950s 400 have a step, except for the 1970s Merz & Krell models. I never gave it a second thought.

    If you donít like it, the vintage 100/101/100N/101N models are flush, so i assume the modern replica m10xx models are also. And thereís always Montblanc.

    3. The piston will need to be lubricated eventually. A proper application should last years.

    Almost everyone recommends 100% silicone grease for synthetic piston seals. Avoid the stuff with petroleum products in it which can harm the seals. The usual recommendation for vintage cork seals is paraffin, but i have heard of people using silicone grease as well as the paraffin. I donít think it would harm anything. Iíve never greased any of my pens with cork seals.

    At any rate, itís very easy to lubricate Pelikan pistons. You coat the blunt end of a toothpick with some silicone grease, unscrew the nib unit, & move the piston down so that you can reach it with the toothpick. Stick the toothpick up the front end of the pen and apply a thin coating of grease to the circumference of the seal. Move the piston up & down a few times to test and spread the grease along the barrel walls and youíre done.
    Last edited by guyy; November 27th, 2020 at 06:31 AM.

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    Senior Member grainweevil's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    Quote Originally Posted by jace View Post
    [*]Is there supposed to be a slight "step-up" near the piston knob at the end of the pen? I.e. when the pen is capped, when you move your finger across the pen from the end of the pen to where the nib-side is, there is a slight "step-up" at the piston end and it's not completely smooth. If so, would you consider this a design flaw?
    Not a flaw, definitely a plus. If you post your cap then it removes the danger of inadvertently activating the piston when removing the posted cap. I found this one out the messy way from a pen that didn't have this feature, and while I habitually don't post, my mother did, thus when she tried it... Luckily it was a washable ink.
    In the words of Paul Simon, you can call me Al.

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    Default Re: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    Quote Originally Posted by grainweevil View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jace View Post
    [*]Is there supposed to be a slight "step-up" near the piston knob at the end of the pen? I.e. when the pen is capped, when you move your finger across the pen from the end of the pen to where the nib-side is, there is a slight "step-up" at the piston end and it's not completely smooth. If so, would you consider this a design flaw?
    Not a flaw, definitely a plus. If you post your cap then it removes the danger of inadvertently activating the piston when removing the posted cap. I found this one out the messy way from a pen that didn't have this feature, and while I habitually don't post, my mother did, thus when she tried it... Luckily it was a washable ink.
    Well look at that, I've been into these for a while now (20+ years) and newer actually realized the difference that step can make. I mean, with the 100N the risk of activating the piston is very real, with the 400 etc. not. Had to actually try it with the ones that are inked right now and yes, that is most definitely not a flaw but rather, damn smart design.

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    Default Re: Quick question(s) on Pelikan piston filler pens

    Quote Originally Posted by guyy View Post
    1. All Pelikan pistons work pretty much the same. However, the m800 & m1000 piston units are threaded into the barrel and can be replaced or removed relatively easily. The others are friction fit. The m800 & m1000 units have brass threads, while the rest are all plastic.

    2. There is a slight step up on Pelikans. To my knowledge, all the pens modeled after the original 1950s 400 have a step, except for the 1970s Merz & Krell models. I never gave it a second thought.

    If you donít like it, the vintage 100/101/100N/101N models are flush, so i assume the modern replica m10xx models are also. And thereís always Montblanc.

    3. The piston will need to be lubricated eventually. A proper application should last years.

    Almost everyone recommends 100% silicone grease for synthetic piston seals. Avoid the stuff with petroleum products in it which can harm the seals. The usual recommendation for vintage cork seals is paraffin, but i have heard of people using silicone grease as well as the paraffin. I donít think it would harm anything. Iíve never greased any of my pens with cork seals.

    At any rate, itís very easy to lubricate Pelikan pistons. You coat the blunt end of a toothpick with some silicone grease, unscrew the nib unit, & move the piston down so that you can reach it with the toothpick. Stick the toothpick up the front end of the pen and apply a thin coating of grease to the circumference of the seal. Move the piston up & down a few times to test and spread the grease along the barrel walls and youíre done.
    A very thorough answer, I appreciate it.

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