Re-saccing Sheaffer Slim Converters

[top pen]

I've had to re-sac a few Sheaffer Slim Converters and I have found a straightforward technique. As more and more of these converters are drying out as the years go by I thought it would be useful to record my method of doing it.

1. I'd advise trying to push out the part that goes into the pen from the whole at the end (closest to the press window). Using a 3mm rod or a long screw driver with its end cut off. I would suggest using heat from a heat gun to warm the end so it comes out easily. This has far less risk of damaging the front end of the converter (then using e.g. a hook).
2. Once you have removed the old sac I would advise using a silicone sac (size 14 or 15) instead of a rubber sac as the wall thickness is smaller. One of the issues I had in the past was that the metal shell cracked due to the pressure the sac was causing against the wall. The sac fitting tightly is less of an issue as the metal shell will ensure it is fitted tightly.
3. Whilst there shouldn't be much of an issue a thin coating of shellac is useful on the joint between the converters metal shell and the internal parts of the converter as it will stop the internals being exposed when the converter is removed from the pen.

[Chrissy]

I've done this fairly frequently with slim and classic Sheaffer converters and I followed SBRE Brown's method and occasionally used a crochet hook to remove the end part. With a perished sac it is easy to push out too.
I don't always shellac them on but hammer crimp 3 or 4 times around the metal tube with a punch. The PVC sac is a good idea as it upgrades the converter to the version that had the red end piece.
The Repair Book says to cut the end off of the metal tube but I don't really like to do that.

[Ron Z]

The Repair Book says to cut the end off of the metal tube but I don't really like to do that.

Which repair book? "Da Book" aka Frank Dubiels or another? I agree - pulling the plug out is best. I usually flatten the points where it was staked prior to reinserting the plug, and then stake it again with a center punch once assembled. Before you put the sac on and reassemble, hang the plug on a paper clip and put it in boiling water for about 30-45 seconds. This softens the plastic a bit so that it goes back to its original dimensions, and so regains a snug fit on the piercing tube. It won't hurt the plug.

Yes to PVC sacs. It makes no sense to use a latex sac. The standard size converters get a #16, IIRC the slim Targa converters will take a #14. You don't see the converters all that often. Let the shellac set up for a while before you put the converter back together.

[Chrissy]

Sorry couldn't remember it at the time I wrote my post: Pen Repair Marshall and Oldfield says to cut off the metal end of converters and I suppose it's not a completely essential part so if that's the only possible way in....

I also try to flatten out the original crimps once I get the plastic end out. Forgot that part.

Does shellac work for PVC sacs or is there a better alternative?

[jbb]

I have these Sheaffer slim cartridges in my Etsy store if they are of any help here https://www.etsy.com/listing/7929552...ridges-pack-of (Let me know if this is not applicable and should be removed.)

[top pen]

I've done this fairly frequently with slim and classic Sheaffer converters and I followed SBRE Brown's method and occasionally used a crochet hook to remove the end part. With a perished sac it is easy to push out too.
I don't always shellac them on but hammer crimp 3 or 4 times around the metal tube with a punch. The PVC sac is a good idea as it upgrades the converter to the version that had the red end piece.
The Repair Book says to cut the end off of the metal tube but I don't really like to do that.

My logic for not using a hook is that there could be a risk of damaging the connector as the force wouldn't be applied equally. Also there would be a small chance of widening the whole the end of the feed goes in to. One advantage of forcing it from the other end is that the broken / soft sac acts as a pressure distributor meaning the force is more evenly applied.

[Chrissy]

My logic for not using a hook is that there could be a risk of damaging the connector as the force wouldn't be applied equally. Also there would be a small chance of widening the whole the end of the feed goes in to. One advantage of forcing it from the other end is that the broken / soft sac acts as a pressure distributor meaning the force is more evenly applied.

I've never damaged the connector with my crochet hook nor widened the hole. I agree with you that the force of pushing may be more evenly applied but instead you are essentially pressing and squashing from the inside the internal connector on which you need to fit the new sac. Whatever method you use you potentially risk some damage to the plastic end.

In either case Ron's dip in boiling water method should fix it.

[Ron Z]

Does shellac work for PVC sacs or is there a better alternative?

Shellac works just fine. I scuff up the sac nipple a bit with sand paper, and always clean the sac with denatured alcohol to remove any mold release compound. You should end up with a little bead of shellac at the front of the sac. Leave it there and let it harden.