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Thread: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

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    Default Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Good day folks, I've managed to separate all the pieces of the pen, but one. Spring is in good condition. How do I pry open the sac protector crimps? I've read many suggestions but am a bit worried. My sac protector has 3 narrow crimps and a wide one. I have multiple small/tiny screwdrivers that could slide between the crimps and the rubber holder. Binder on his website says to wash the snorkel. Nobody else says this. I took notice of the position of the slit of mine though, it is upwards under the nib. From this I also understood that snorkels work for capillary effect of ink trickling from this slit as the sac empties, maybe. So will screwdrivers do the job? Do I then shellac the new sac in place? Thank you. Marco

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    Senior Member KBeezie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    I'm a bit fuzzy on the crimp part itself as I know there's a couple different styles of it, but I would just say avoid overdoing it.

    One possible tip that may help make it a little easier is to heat that crimp area first (blow dryer on low if you don't have a heat gun with a variable temperature dial), will help get that rubber part a little more malleable and easier to pull out (but can also soften shellac if the previous person used it to hold the snorkel tube in).

    A reason why Binder may have mentioned washing the snorkel, is because the snorkel tube itself has a very thin ebonite feed channel in it. That channel could be clogged with old ink, with it out of the pen (don't attempt to take the feed out of the tube), you can easily drop that guy into an ultrasonic cleaner and let it run for a bit, if it's steel you can use a small dilution of pen flush to help. If it's 14K solid gold like one of mine, avoid ammonia in the mix especially in an ultrasonic cleaner (though I can't imagine embrittling the tube would be as big a deal as embrittling a 14K nib).

    The slit in the tube ideally should be lined up with the slit of the feed, and yes it's by capillary action, the ink flows down that narrow channel of the ebonite feed, then catches over to the nib's feed underneath it, but you sometimes have to dip the nib on a first fill to help create that connection. From there you can usually just dip the tube for refills since you'll already have ink in the main feed to make a connection to pull over.

    If you do pull the snorkel tube from the gasket, make a note on the orientation of the gasket to the sac protector, as well as the orientation (where the slit is) in relation to that. That way when you put it back in, you're more likely to have it line up with the nib on re-assembly, as opposed to needing to rotate the tube and test over and over again until it goes in lined up. Depending on the sac protector style there might be a few different orientations that it can go into the grip.

    If the snorkel tube goes back into the hole, and is quite firm once that rubber part is cooled down, then you may be able to forgo using a tiny dab of shellac on it.

    Far as sac material, I recommend getting some PVC sacs from Nishimura's site https://www.vintagepens.com/catill_sacs_seals.shtml , they'll work just fine due to the sac protector without any affect on the pen (except maybe slightly slower filling compared to latex), and they will last a lot longer than latex, meaning you won't need to open that thing up for a long long while. They'll also work with akaline inks too (mostly Japanese inks like Sailor, Platinum, Pilot, Iroshizuku etc), which usually causes early ruptures in latex sacs. Just avoid iron gall inks (Salix and Scabiosa from R&K, KWZ, Platinum "Classic", etc) because vintage steel, stainless or otherwise corrodes a lot faster than modern stainless steel, and you really don't want to end up with a snorkel tube full of holes.

    Also welcome to the Valiant club... this is mine with a 14K solid tube, and PVC sac installed :



    Last edited by KBeezie; December 11th, 2021 at 05:17 AM.

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    The tube has to be reinserted without any type of adhesive, correct?
    As for the gasket in the section, where the snorkel slides into, does it have to be replaced as a precautionary measure or not? So far the snorkel offers a bit of resistance when pushed through it.
    Thank you
    Marco

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Doesn't "have" to be done with an adhesive, but usually ends up needing it if the snorkel tube cannot stay firm in the hole. Shellac is usually used, and takes the tiniest tiniest amount at the base of that opening. You don't want to risk it getting into the feed channel of the tube, so it's usually applied after the tube been inserted a bit already.

    Depending on the shape of the sac protector where the crimps are, they may have to be squeezed in a little further so that they can make it smoothly thru the contours in the back of the grip. You don't want to force it because the plastic isn't exactly the most durable.

    If you're able to attach pictures of the parts I'm sure one of the resident experts could chime in on additional tips.

    I've personally never had to replace the sac guard that sits between the tube and the sac. Since as long as the sac is is secured onto the sac guard, and as long as the tube is not loose in the other end of it, it will usually not require replacement unless it's been mangled and cut up from previous repair attempts.

    Here's some tips on that including what the other end of the snorkel tube should look like out the other end of it. https://sala.melda.info/en/sheaffer_snorkel/

    Make sure not to use any adhesive/shellac between the sac guard and the sac protector, the crimping should be enough (if you do future restorers will hate you for it).

    If you haven't already got the whole kit that includes the o-ring, you'll probably want to do that too, since replacing the original o-ring in the tail of the barrel is important to the way the pen fills effectively (and that part you can usually add a little silicone grease to the rod to work it up and down without having to take apart the whole pen if it starts losing a tiny bit of seal).

    Same for the point seal in the front if all your plan was to do is replace the sac, since I noticed you didn't mention either the o-ring or point seal (they both need to be replaced usually around the time the sac is, or that pneumatic action can't take place, or will do so very poorly).

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    This si what the point seal looks like

    Point seal 2.jpeg

    point seal.jpeg

    Have no idea how old this pen is as it came in a box of other pens I got at an auction.
    I'm planning to get a kit with all the components, seals, o-ring and sac anyway. The new point seals though are flat and do not have the grooves/shape of the original one.

    I can see that there still are bits of the old sac sticking inside the sac protector. Do I put the sac protector in a bath of isopropyl alcool or other type or not ? Water might not be a good idea as it might rust.

    Thank you
    Marco

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Usually try to avoid having any kind of alcohol near the components (Especially the plastic). You can do a water soak of the sac protector especially in an ultrasonic bath, if it's all by itself and disassembled, just get it all nice and dry with a q-tip and air drying and you're good. Can usually probably take a chopstick and just knock it off the protector wall if you want to go in dry.

    New point seals will be flat discs, and that's fine.

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Thank you Karl. Can I also put the snorkel in the ultrasonic bath? Just water and Rapido Eze or ammonia?
    Marco

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoA64 View Post
    Thank you Karl. Can I also put the snorkel in the ultrasonic bath? Just water and Rapido Eze or ammonia?
    Marco
    If only the snorkel tube by itself should be fine. If it's a solid gold 14k Snorkel tube then no ammonia (don't ammonia on any 14k parts).

    May be a good idea cuz it's likely the most efficient way to get that feed tube cleared.

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    As I haven't removed the snorkel from the 'section plug' can I put both in the unltrasonic cleaner together with the sac protector or not ?
    Obviously the sac protector and the 'section plug' have been separated.
    The snorkel is allloy not sign of gold anywhere.
    If I have to remove the snorkel can I use the knock out block or I just pull it ?
    Thank you
    Marco

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    No need to remove the snorkel. Found a siringe that accomodates the snorkel and pressed water through it, no obstructions there, water flowed out of the snorkel without impediments from both ends :-)
    sac protector is undergoing a few cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner and removing bits of the old sack at every rinse.
    Marco

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Sac and other bits have arrived. The 'o' ring at the end of the barrel needed replacing as it was hard as a rock.
    The sac fitting I@m not convinced. It is a necked sac. I had to cut off a bit because it was too long and I don't want it to be wrinkled inside the sac protector. Does it have to be necked or not ? Because to me it could do with an extra 2/3mm off but this would get rid of the neck. It is a 14 2/18 sac.
    Marco

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    If a reputable pen company has provided a complete kit for replacement of a Sheaffer Valiant sac then you can probably safely assume that their kit works correctly for a Sheaffer Valiant. If your sac isn't right then there are only two potential options: you have the wrong kit for the pen or you have the wrong pen for the kit.

    If the Valiant pen needs a specific size necked sac in order to fit on it's sac peg then the sac is no longer going to be the correct size if it has all of it's neck cut off because then it will be too big for the peg and you will have wasted your money and be left with an unusable sac.
    Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens

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    Default Re: Sheaffer Valiant sac replecement

    Job done. After looking at various websites and flow charts about Snorkel production models I've come to the conclusion that the pen I have is a Saratoga. Can't quite decide which burgundy it is, old or new, but who cares. The pen writes, this is important, although to me is a bit too fine. Not scratchy at all and not at all flexible. There is no number, usually a 5, stamped on the nib. My other one has the number 5 on it, but it is an Admiral.
    Absolutely no difference between them when they are side by side, capped.

    Saratoga.jpeg
    saratoga finita.jpeg

    This one is an Australian pen, like the first one I ever bougth decades ago. Wonder why I keep getting them from 'down under'.
    10 GBP well spent :-)

    Thank you for your help and support as always
    Marco

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    Jon Szanto (December 20th, 2021)

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