What Did I Do Wrong?

[SkyCyclePilot]

I just bought a Pilot Metropolitan with a medium nib. It draws a much narrower line than a western nib, as expected, but it feels like a hard #2 lead pencil. It is in perfect alignment, and is not scratchy. It just seems to write with a lot of friction. So, I thought I'd draw figure eights on 12,000 micromesh, very lightly, for just a few seconds. That was a mistake. Now, the nib is terribly scratchy. I didn't care for the way it felt before, but now, I think it is ruined?

I tried a few seconds on some 1.0 micron lapping film, but it didn't help.

It's a cheap nib, so I'm not terribly upset about it, but what am I doing wrong, and can this be fixed?

[Cyril]

Once the nib is ground on the mesh some of the materials on the tip is gone. So can't go back to the place where it was.
The more you run the tip the original shape is changing and it might get more wired every time you do it. If you did not start with a real style in mind as a plan and shape intended you'll get to nowhere.
I have done that for so many pens. So now I know what I have to expect If I am impatient and careless to polish my nibs on any Mesh.

I even nearly ruined my "Mont Blanc 146" that is how it was my experience. If I try.. I use a highly magnifier to how it look and think about the grinding basic nib shapes.
I have a metropolitan and it is a Ef hard nib. It is having a good feed back. I grind nibs to get FEED BACK AND TO ELIMINATE THE SMOOTH SLIPPERY WRITING so most of the pilot pens have that feed back character and I love they as they are.

[SkyCyclePilot]

Once the nib is ground on the mesh some of the materials on the tip is gone. So can't go back to the place where it was.
The more you run the tip the original shape is changing and it might get more wired every time you do it. If you did not start with a real style in mind as a plan and shape intended you'll get to nowhere.
I have done that for so many pens. So now I know what I have to expect If I am impatient and careless to polish my nibs on any Mesh.

I even nearly ruined my "Mont Blanc 146" that is how it was my experience. If I try.. I use a highly magnifier to how it look and think about the grinding basic nib shapes.
I have a metropolitan and it is a Ef hard nib. It is having a good feed back. I grind nibs to get FEED BACK AND TO ELIMINATE THE SMOOTH SLIPPERY WRITING so most of the pilot pens have that feed back character and I love they as they are.

I'm confused! I've read countless articles and watched countless videos, all claiming that 12,000 grit is so fine that you can't possibly damage a nib with it, using it lightly for just a few seconds. However, from what I just experienced, it would appear that what everyone says is wrong, and you are right. Surely, there is a way to fix my nib - Pilot doesn't offer replacements...

[Sandy]

Use Apicia paper with Japanese nibs, and everything wil be fine.

My "2B" Platinum nibs are as smooth as butter on this japanese paper.

Japanese nibs are smoother on Japanese paper than other types, perhaps?

[FredRydr]

Is the tip bare steel?

[Jon Szanto]

Fred is on the right track. I’m fairly certain those are just stamped steel nibs with no tipping material whatsoever, and it is possible that the mesh will be more aggressive. Still, without seeing before and after it is pretty hard to diagnose. A light hand shouldn’t have made it markedly worse.

[Lloyd]

Could you have raised a microburr on the inside edge of one of the tines. If so, it will need to be flossed with an abrasive.

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[SkyCyclePilot]

Thanks for all the responses. I think I've figured it out, and saved the nib - I think. When people say to use a light touch on the micromesh, man do they mean it. With nothing to lose, I messed with the nib some more. Using a very, very light touch, and going slowly, I was able to finally get the nib smooth again - using the 12,000 micromesh. Then, I started making light strokes in all directions on an index card. When I'd detect roughness, I'd lightly stroke the nib a time or two in that same direction on the micromesh. With patience, I was finally able to eliminate roughness in all directions. I did all of this with a dry nib and dry micromesh. I then dipped the tip of the nib in ink for a final test or two.

The trick does seem to be to go back and forth between the paper and the micromesh, ferreting out the rough spots. Apparently, micromesh is a lot more aggressive than I thought. Interestingly, the 1.0 and 0.3 micron Mylar film didn't do much. In fact, in seemed to make matters worse.

[Chrissy]

My 12,000 grey micro mesh is on a "nib smoothing board" with a couple of other grits on the other side in pink and white. It's an old board and worn smooth on the 12,000 side. It's kept as a nib smoothing board mainly for just that side.

[ilikenails]

Fred is on the right track. I’m fairly certain those are just stamped steel nibs with no tipping material whatsoever, and it is possible that the mesh will

That's completely wrongly. The Metro has the same widely praised nib as the Prera, Kakuno, etc. You're either thinking of Pilot disposable V Pens or italics.

[ilikenails]

What you did wrong was trying to smooth a nib that didn't need it. Using a nib smoothing technique that isn't great anyway.

You did well to check tine alignment, but a pencil-like nib doesn't indicate a need for smoothing. It's also not how those nibs should feel used correctly.

The second most likely thing is the slit wasn't wide enough or shaped correctly for ink to flow. But more likely still, you were pressing too hard on a nib designed for light pressure and forcing the tip through the cushion of ink, or the feed or nib has a trace of manufacturing oils left on them and just needed cleaning.

[ilikenails]

Use Apicia paper with Japanese nibs, and everything wil be fine.

My "2B" Platinum nibs are as smooth as butter on this japanese paper.

Japanese nibs are smoother on Japanese paper than other types, perhaps?

No, this really isn't necessary. Japanese F and M nibs are meant to write on the ordinary paper you find in Japanese schools and offices. Which is the same as anywhere else. You just need to use a light hand - the pen should write under it's own weigh. Papers like Apica are meant for showing off fancy inks that might feather on standard paper, and to help bring out shading effects. They can actually be a pita for normal writing because they delay drying times compared to printer paper.

My Platinum F writes completely acceptably on the cheapest copy paper I've ever bought. It feels better again on HP Premium or Optik, and I can use a wider range of inks without feathering.

In fact, I'd say that Apica is smoother than the paper Platinum want you to write on. Their nibs are suppose to have that 2B nuzzle to help with control. But ymmv.