Who in the 'States works on OMAS pens?

[Gulfcoast]

I have an OMAS (I think it's a Paragon), with an "extra flessible" (SP?) nib. In the chaos of hurricane evacuation of my office for some storm a few years ago, I misplaced it. I recently rediscovered the pen in a briefcase I seldom use. To say the ink has dried in it would be an understatement. I have soaked the nib, but cannot get the nib out, or the piston to move, at all. I don't want to destroy the pen trying to get it apart. I would also like to bring it back to life. I know OMAS is no longer with us. Is there anyone in the US that repairs/restores OMAS pens? I'm kind of stumped here.

TIA!

Mark

[Robert]

If I recall correctly, a few years ago nibs.com was designated as an authorized U.S. repair site for Omas. That was when John M. was still running the shop and (I think) shortly before Omas went out of business. I sent John an Omas Extra Lucens for a piston repair. The pen was purchased from nibs.com but was officially out of warranty. John repaired the piston at no charge and returned to me - - - didn't even charge for postage. What a classy guy!

I'm sure there are other sources for repair in the U.S. but offhand I can't think of any. I'm sure others will helpfully chime in.

[Jon Szanto]

Following on to Robert's comment... I had an association with nibs.com going back well over a decade, but a lot of that was driven by John himself overseeing the shop. Since his retirement and handing over the shop to the new owner(s), I have heard and read many reports of poor to atrocious customer service, and I really had no confidence in whoever might be doing repairs there at the moment. It is not a happy development, because I really used to enjoy dealing with them, and I don't like to talk bad about businesses, but just wanted you to be aware.

While there may not be authorized 'dealers' you could send the pen to, it doesn't sound like a major repair. I have no doubt Ron Zorn of Main Street Pens (a FPG forum member) could make it well. The Kennedys at Indy-Pen-Dance also have a good track record.

[724Seney]

Following on to Robert's comment... I had an association with nibs.com going back well over a decade, but a lot of that was driven by John himself overseeing the shop. Since his retirement and handing over the shop to the new owner(s), I have heard and read many reports of poor to atrocious customer service, and I really had no confidence in whoever might be doing repairs there at the moment. It is not a happy development, because I really used to enjoy dealing with them, and I don't like to talk bad about businesses, but just wanted you to be aware.

While there may not be authorized 'dealers' you could send the pen to, it doesn't sound like a major repair. I have no doubt Ron Zorn of Main Street Pens (a FPG forum member) could make it well. The Kennedys at Indy-Pen-Dance also have a good track record.

Agree 100% with the comments about nibs.com.

I recommend you speak with either Ed or Steve at the Fountain Pen Hospital in NYC. They do not do any repair work themselves, in house, but have a cadre of experts whom they use to do their repair / restoration work.
Not unexpectedly, different experts have different expertise. And things are not always what they appear to be.....
Ed & Steve will assure your pen goes to the person best suited to do the necessary work.

No affiliation other than being a long time, satisfied customer.

[Gulfcoast]

Thanks for the input so far! I have ordered a lot of pens from nibs.com when John was running it, but none in a few years. I did not realize that he had sold the business. I guess that he retired?

Thanks again.

Mark

[FredRydr]

It would seem that dried ink is not a peculiarly Omas issue, unlike a broken part, so any competent fountain pen repairer should be able to clean it up. Have you tried soaking the pen in water for a few days to allow moisture to wick into the feed and ink reservoir?

[Gulfcoast]

Yes. And for more than a few days. Whatever is in the pen appears to be like liquid concrete.

[FredRydr]

Assuming it is a piston-filler, I would access the concreted reservoir to wet the dried ink by removing the nib and feed (or section as a whole depending on fitment). If you're not experienced, I agree with Jon's recommendations. The sooner you get your pen into Ron Zorn's oftentimes lengthy queue, the sooner you'll get it back, but you must be patient for quality work.

[724Seney]

Assuming it is a piston-filler, I would access the concreted reservoir to wet the dried ink by removing the nib and feed (or section as a whole depending on fitment). If you're not experienced, I agree with Jon's recommendations. The sooner you get your pen into Ron Zorn's oftentimes lengthy queue, the sooner you'll get it back, but you must be patient for quality work.

Another thought........
I would not simply assume you are dealing with concreted ink. Some of the Omas celluloids are quite prone to crystallization and I am aware of at least one instance where the process began internally and presented itself as a frozen piston. Needless to say, in your situation, that would be a game changer..........

[dneal]

A picture or model would help. I'm going to assume it's one of the last runs of Ogiva (like the Alba), since you mentioned the "extra flessible" nib.

Paragon refers to size, and it was the largest. The middle size was the Milord or Gentlemen (depending on the era), and the smallest was the Dama. Usually this was for the faceted models, although there are some exceptions (particularly with the Dama). The Ogiva's were usually made in one size.

At your own risk if you choose to try it yourself, but this may help. It will give you an idea of what's involved (and that it's not terribly difficult), should you send it off for repair.

[Gulfcoast]

I will try to take a picture tonight. I could be wrong on the model.

[dneal]

I will try to take a picture tonight. I could be wrong on the model.

Thanks, and it's not that big of a deal since they all come apart the same way (for this era, anyway). The older models had pinned caps and mechanisms, and the 360 also has its own assembly design.

[Gulfcoast]

This is the pen. I had it confused with my other OMAS. It is stamped “OMAS Extra” on the barrel, along with what looks like “Brev?” and a serial number. It is really hard to make out the lettering. https://imgup.app/57nfq

[Gulfcoast]

[img] https://imgup.app/57nfq [\img]

[Ron Z]

The picture is helpful. The good news is that is one of the older Omas pens, not one of the newer ones that can no longer be repaired (no parts). The section can be unscrewed to gain access to the inside of the pen to soak soften the ink to clean and free the parts. Not something that I would recommend an amateur trying. The pen should be disassembled and cleaned and the seal lubricated as well, then the section threads sealed again.

[dneal]

This is the pen. I had it confused with my other OMAS. It is stamped “OMAS Extra” on the barrel, along with what looks like “Brev?” and a serial number. It is really hard to make out the lettering. https://imgup.app/57nfq

It's older, and they're hard to date. That pen could date anywhere from the 40's to the 60's (likely later since it has the patent numbers). Note the pinned piston knob and the "extra lucens" nib instead of "extra flessible" (which was only recently). I wouldn't be surprised if the piston is cork, which you probably should replace while it's apart.

Definitely not for the amateur.

p.s.: The tip of the nib looks splayed.

[724Seney]

This is the pen. I had it confused with my other OMAS. It is stamped “OMAS Extra” on the barrel, along with what looks like “Brev?” and a serial number. It is really hard to make out the lettering. https://imgup.app/57nfq

It's older, and they're hard to date. That pen could date anywhere from the 40's to the 60's (likely later since it has the patent numbers). Note the pinned piston knob and the "extra lucens" nib instead of "extra flessible" (which was only recently). I wouldn't be surprised if the piston is cork, which you probably should replace while it's apart.

Definitely not for the amateur.

p.s.: The tip of the nib looks splayed.

@dneal is spot on.
The imprints & nib suggest it is from the 40's-50's, likely a 556 or a 557. Definitely pre-dates the Gentleman series.
It's a great FP because those earlier pens were fitted with that older, superb Extra Lucens nib with the pentagonal breather hole. IMO, one of the best / nicest nibs ever manufactured.
Agree, the nib tipping will need some work. But definitely worth the expense to get it restored.

[Gulfcoast]

Thanks to all! This has been very informative. When I am done with my travels I will get it sent to Mr. Zorn to bring it back to life. The nib does look splayed, now that I look at it. (And no wonder I could not get the thing apart).

[MarcoA64]

what happened to this pen since the original posting? happy ending?

[Gulfcoast]

The pen is with Ron Zorn, waiting to be restored.