Sheaffer's PFM V - removing tip seal

[MarcoA64]

Hi folks, I have to replace the tip seals but can't figure out how to separate the section in order to remove them. Ideas? Can I stick something in the top part that has the sac assembly grooves and twist or is it too risky? At the moment the section is soaking. Thank you

[Paul-H]

A workable tool for this job is made from a couple of inches of 1/4 brass or aluminium with a rod inserted at one end to make a T bar.

Warm the section on warm water, inset the tool, grip the section with something like thin rubber and twist.

I will post a picture of mine tomorrow.

[MarcoA64]

Paul, thank you very much, I'll go to my hobby shop and look for the square bar.
Not hot water then, correct?
I do not put the nib in hot water, just the part that needs unscrewing, correct?
To reassemble the bits can I reseal just with silicone grease or I need something more tenacious?

[Paul-H]

Yep just warm water and silicone grease is all I have ever used.

[Ron Z]

You don't need anything on the point holder gasket. Sheaffer did use thread sealant on the thread bushing. I put thread sealant on the nib end of bushing not to seal it, but to keep it from unscrewing from the section when you take the nib unit out. Both Sheaffer and Parker used thread sealant as a thread locking compound as much as a sealant. When you make the tool, round the corners just a bit...

[MarcoA64]

Do you turn clockwise or anti-clockwise to unscrew the piece? thank you

[Ron Z]

Lefty loosey.... standard left hand threads (most of the world) you turn counter-clockwise to remove. It can feel quite tight, and you will need to warm the section because Sheaffer used thread sealant. It takes heat to soften it, and there may be ink in the threads.

[MarcoA64]

Hi everyone, I managed to open the section and change the point seal. The parts weren't sealed with anything. I had to put the section in warm water a few times and twist. I put some silicone grease when I reassembled it though and have not tightened it extremely hard. Am now waiting for a new sac protector as I managed to ruin the original one trying to extract the sac holder :-( which in the end I managed to punch out using the extractor block, having previously removed the snorkel tube. So thank you to everyone for you help and suggestions. Marco

[MarcoA64]

Hi again folks,
how would you reshape the square bit of the sack protector so it can go back in the threaded section / connector smoothly? Is it even remotely possible?

Sac protector Marco.jpeg

Thank you

[ralfstc]

Huge pain. Trial and error and forming to the plug.

It's too late now, but very often if you dry heat the plug before removal it's soft enough to come out of the protector with very little deformation of the protect.

Pentooling has the sac protectors for $50 if I recall correctly.

Good luck!

ps. If I were Ron and did a lot of these I'd have a die I could run the end of the sac protector into to reshape it . . . .

[Ron Z]

Ron uses a drill to serve as a mandrel on out of round/deformed objects. A drill index gives you a wide variety of drills to use as rods for getting things back in round. The corner at each spline gets pushed down against the plug with a small screwdriver, and again between each spline. As long as it slips in the connector bushing easily, you're good.

[MarcoA64]

Good evening folks, I manged to find a 'pristine' sac protector from a seller here in UK and the pen has been reassembled. Apart from the early hours that it didn't want to write it now writes pretty well. I have time to experiment fixing the old sac protector, for the future.
I will definitely use heat next time to extract the sac holder :-)
Thank you to all