Nib Grinding

[KrazyIvan]

Not really a repair but I did not know exactly where to post. This is sort of a continuation from my Bexley BX802 picture thread that was taking a different turn. I like grinding my own nibs. I have practiced quite a bit on cheap Chinese pens then I upped the stakes to my TWSBI broad nib. Now, my latest, as stated already is the Bexley. I bought a broad nib and I also bought a spare broad nib just in case. I already had a nib grinding kit from Richard Binder's site. It has some buff sticks with three grades of grit. I also purchased a brass shim for flossing the tines and some mylar mesh or micromesh as it is called. I did a few nibs with those tools but it is slow work. I ended up getting a honing stone to help speed the process. I got the idea after reading an FPN members blog and his use of honing stones to grind nibs. I got a first hand look at his work when I bought one of his creations in the form of Sheaffer Javelin. I have not got to his level of work but I am happy with what I have so far.

Here is a picture of the pen along with a scan of a writing sample showing the progress of the grind. I took it slow over the past four nights.


Bexley BX802 - Cracked Ice by IvanRomero, on Flickr


Shed your ink at the alter of Grind by IvanRomero, on Flickr



BexleyNibGrinProgression by IvanRomero, on Flickr

[@penfancy]

Very cool! Thanks for the writing sample. Looks like even more fun the FP writing. Do you have close-ups?

[KrazyIvan]

Very cool! Thanks for the writing sample. Looks like even more fun the FP writing. Do you have close-ups?

You can click the link under the pictures to go to the flickr page and see the full resolution images.

[fountainpenkid]

I'll have to try the honing stone trick now! Thanks for posting!

[KrazyIvan]

Just know that you will also need some buff sticks and micromesh. The stone is just to rough out tje general shape of the nib. You need the other tools to polish up the nib so it will be smooth.

[Maja]

Hi KrazyIvan! Thanks for posting the pics. Just curious about the type of stone you used for the initial grind---is it a type of Arkansas...or a Japanese wetstone...or ??? I've been using a pink Arkansas stone but I'm trying to find a finer surface, so I'm toying with the idea of getting the latter.....Thanks in advance!

[Pinkys.Brain]

Hi KrazyIvan! Thanks for posting the pics. Just curious about the type of stone you used for the initial grind---is it a type of Arkansas...or a Japanese wetstone...or ??? I've been using a pink Arkansas stone but I'm trying to find a finer surface, so I'm toying with the idea of getting the latter.....Thanks in advance!

I use a 1000/3000 combination Japanese wetstone. Wetstones have one problem: They wear of kinda quick, so you need another stone grind out the nicks or you'll get stuck from time to time during grinding. And with the 3000 wetstone you can be relatively precise and controlled

[KrazyIvan]

Mine is an Arkansas stone. Simple one that I bought at my local big box hardware/home improvement store.

[Maja]

Thanks to Pinkys.Brain and KrazyIvan for the responses. I've read that there are different types of Arkansas stone and it appears I have the kind that is among the least 'fine', so I will look into getting a Japanese wetstone as they appear to be available at my local Lee Valley Tools. Thanks for both of your replies!

[Pinkys.Brain]

I think a 3000 or 3000/1000 wet stone would be a good start. Do not go below a 1000 grit. And that would also be a good stone to get your knifes a nice sharpness (= entry drug for the next hobby). ^_^

[jor412]

I'm also attempting to learn to grind my own nibs and using Chinese fountain pens to practice on. So far, I've been working on making them write smooth. I turned one vintage Waterman nib into a stub because it was broken to begin with so I thought of "saving" the nib. I'll now be looking into these wet stones. Thanks.

[Maja]

I think a 3000 or 3000/1000 wet stone would be a good start. Do not go below a 1000 grit. And that would also be a good stone to get your knifes a nice sharpness (= entry drug for the next hobby). ^_^

Many thanks! The 1000 grit one I was looking at is this one:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43072,43071
(a "1000x Pocket Water Stone" for $6.50).

There is also a 4000X grit one, but I have other items I can use for that grit. I am just trying to find something smoother than the pink Arkansas stone for the initial grind.

[@penfancy]

IMAG2353.jpg
I practiced on my Ahab yesterday. Stopped at 1 mm. I used my micro mesh from wood turning. 3200 -12000 grit.

[jor412]

IMAG2353.jpg
I practiced on my Ahab yesterday. Stopped at 1 mm. I used my micro mesh from wood turning. 3200 -12000 grit.

That looks fantastic. Does the flex get in the way of the italics? I had something similar and I couldn't manage the writing.

About micro mesh - I've read here and there that there's a proper way to use micro mesh so that it lasts longer. What way might that be?

[@penfancy]

Jor412,

I was just trying to smooth it out a bit, the grind happened before I knew it.

Use micromesh wet. With ink in the pen I draw figure 8s the way I normally hold the pen. That way it's set for the way I write. I use it mainly for polishing acrylics on the lathe. Wet always. Just pat dry and store. I've been on the same set for about a year. Used on about 60 or so pens.

The italic and the flex work well together. I opened up the first two vents on the feed and it was too wet. Now it has a good flow for the larger nib.


Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

[jor412]

Jor412,

I was just trying to smooth it out a bit, the grind happened before I knew it.

Use micromesh wet. With ink in the pen I draw figure 8s the way I normally hold the pen. That way it's set for the way I write. I use it mainly for polishing acrylics on the lathe. Wet always. Just pat dry and store. I've been on the same set for about a year. Used on about 60 or so pens.

The italic and the flex work well together. I opened up the first two vents on the feed and it was too wet. Now it has a good flow for the larger nib.


Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

haha A happy accident then The vintage waterman I turned into a stub italic is a flex nib and I have yet to learn to write with it. I can use the italic fine but when I flex it, that's when I start having trouble.

Thanks for the micro mesh tips. I didn't want to prematurely ruin my set because I couldn't find them locally and had to order them online, which takes about 2-3 weeks to get her.

[@penfancy]

If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft in your town they will have it in stock. Back by the pen kits.

Good luck:thumbup:

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

[KrazyIvan]

Nice job penfancy!

[Woody]

Nice work. I can grind - but the polishing for me is a real pain. Just can't quite get it right. I've got to get that mirror finish and a buttery feel. Must practice some more. Tips appreciated for "smoothing" your pen. I usually end up with a flat foot.

[KrazyIvan]

Polishing is easy with the buff sticks from Richard Binder. They are nail care sticks and I have not found the right kind in my wife's stash, so I just use Richard's. If you are ending up with a flat foot, they you are not moving the nib around enough. Don't only hold it in one position or do the same movement. You need to vary the position of the nib. Doing figure "8's" at different angles on the finest grit of the buff stick just a few times is all it takes for me to get a nice shiney nib. Watch_art at FPN also posted about a jewelers rubber polishing wheel for a dremel. I am a little more apprehensive about using it but I might have to try it with a few of my cheap pens to get a feel for it.

Here is the link watch_art posted: http://www.fdjtool.com/ProductInfo/ST6026.aspx

If you go to Richard Binder's site, under Accessories and tools go to the right hand colums and under Repair Supplies I have the Micro-Mesh Buff Sticks and the Nib Smoothing Kit (Basic) because I already have a lot of practice pens.

Here is a link at John Mottishaw's site for reference also: http://nibs.com/Article6.html