Guanleming 2001

[KrazyIvan]

KI, please compliment Jessica on her selection of the Hero in black laquer model 9035 as well as the GLM2001. It is a marvellous slim looking pen very modern and stylish. That design would look good on a mechanical pencil or even a rollerball.

Thanks, I will let her know.

IRC you have another daughter, has she selected anything from your pen collection and an appropriate colour ink yet ?

She is 5. She does have appreciation for the pens but I don't think she is resposible enough to use one yet. She is more into pencils right now anyway.

[Bogon07]

She is 5. She does have appreciation for the pens but I don't think she is resposible enough to use one yet. She is more into pencils right now anyway.

That is exactly how it starts !!!!! !

A year or so ago I was only looking at Mechanical Pencils and a few nice gel pens with absolutely no interest in Fountain Pens.
Then you and Ellen started mentioning them on the MD forum and Vista @ the Borders sale now I've a box full of Lamys (and one Parker).

Sorry to diverge from the GLM2001. It would be nice to see more photos if you load a lighter colour ink into it.

[KrazyIvan]

Crud more typos.

Yes, i do remember your first Lamy. I also remember how you flaunted that Vacumatic on that thread Ellen probably has the classiest collection out of us three. She has some very well chosen pieces. She also probably has the biggest ink collection.

I took the Guanleming apart last night to clean it. This is what I don't like about aerometric fill pens. You can never seem to get them clean. I even took out the breather tube and the Ebony Green is still in the feed. I am getting ready to have another go at it. I'll take the camera out and get some shots first.

[Saintpaulia]

Crud more typos.

I took the Guanleming apart last night to clean it. This is what I don't like about aerometric fill pens. You can never seem to get them clean. I even took out the breather tube and the Ebony Green is still in the feed. I am getting ready to have another go at it. I'll take the camera out and get some shots first.

Hey Ivan, another old thread that I just now found. I've been scratching my head over my Guanleming 2001. After reading some of the reviews of this pen earlier, much earlier! I decided to get one and experience this "smoothness for such a priced pen". As yet I have not so experienced. I find this nib pretty scratchy, a bit dry and hence subject to some skipping unless I write really slowly.

Now, I have mine inked up with an ink I don't generally use but thought it would look cool in this transparent pen and that is Diamine Cerise. But this ink may not be the best for a test. Also the aerometric apparatus is really Mickey Mouse. A terrible way to fill a pen. Trying to help the flow I flushed it out really good and then realized how difficult it is to get the residual water out. Thinking about that and cleaning I really perked up when I saw your note on cleaning yours.

Would you give us some sort of tutorial on how to clean an aerometric? As far as I can tell the nib-hood-feed-grip assemblage is invulnerable to being opened up. I mean, if one cannot take off the sac of the filler for starters how does one proceed? I am beginning to think this pen was one of my worst uses of $11 ($5 pen + $6 shipping).

[Sailor Kenshin]

Not all inks suit all pens. I first tested my GLM demo withJH Eclat de Saphir, perfectly smooth and slinky. A friend gave me a new bottle of Skrip Blue and I refilled with that. Now I have to dip-start the pen every time. I don't blame the pen.

As for getting all the ink and water out of the sac and feed etc., I don't worry too much. It is how it is, and I usually reload with the same ink, so at worst it gets a teeny bit dilited.

[Saintpaulia]

Not all inks suit all pens. I first tested my GLM demo withJH Eclat de Saphir, perfectly smooth and slinky. A friend gave me a new bottle of Skrip Blue and I refilled with that. Now I have to dip-start the pen every time. I don't blame the pen.

As for getting all the ink and water out of the sac and feed etc., I don't worry too much. It is how it is, and I usually reload with the same ink, so at worst it gets a teeny bit dilited.

Well there it is! Deal with the way it is, which I think is dumb or...hit the road Jack! To each their own. That said, I will try to be positive in my comments henceforth. Script ink has not caused me problems those that I've used (blue-black and red). The green was pretty dry. What I absolutely cannot use at all are those Quink inks of Parker's. Talk about DRY!

[Sailor Kenshin]

If you decide you can't stand it, maybe we can work out a trade, lol.

[Saintpaulia]

If you decide you can't stand it, maybe we can work out a trade, lol.

I'm not laughing. See p.m. please. Thanks!

[KrazyIvan]

Hey Ivan, another old thread that I just now found. I've been scratching my head over my Guanleming 2001. After reading some of the reviews of this pen earlier, much earlier! I decided to get one and experience this "smoothness for such a priced pen". As yet I have not so experienced. I find this nib pretty scratchy, a bit dry and hence subject to some skipping unless I write really slowly.

Now, I have mine inked up with an ink I don't generally use but thought it would look cool in this transparent pen and that is Diamine Cerise. But this ink may not be the best for a test. Also the aerometric apparatus is really Mickey Mouse. A terrible way to fill a pen. Trying to help the flow I flushed it out really good and then realized how difficult it is to get the residual water out. Thinking about that and cleaning I really perked up when I saw your note on cleaning yours.

Would you give us some sort of tutorial on how to clean an aerometric? As far as I can tell the nib-hood-feed-grip assemblage is invulnerable to being opened up. I mean, if one cannot take off the sac of the filler for starters how does one proceed? I am beginning to think this pen was one of my worst uses of $11 ($5 pen + $6 shipping).

Sorry you are not liking that pen. You may do well in getting a Richard Binder smoothing kit. The one that has the pen included. That way you can learn to smooth your pens the way you want. I promise it is a lot easier than what a lot of people make it out to be but just a tad harder than what the pro's make it look like. In all honesty, this is a skill you need if you want to continue in fountain pens. It will make your experience much more enjoyable and satisfying and will also save you some time and money in the long run.

There is not much to taking apart to the pen. As you found on FPN, the sack does not come off. On mine, I pulled the nib straight out and used a syringe to "power wash" the inside of the section. It still did not come out completely clean. The PR Ebony Green is highly saturated and I have a green ring inside the top of the section that will not come out. This is why I suggested using this pen with one ink exclusively. It is not enough to bother me and I could probably let it soak in some JB's Perfect Pen flush to get it completely clean but I am not going to bother for the price I paid.

[Saintpaulia]

Sorry you are not liking that pen. You may do well in getting a Richard Binder smoothing kit.
I pretty much do already and I have watched Stephen Brown with a buff stick do figure 8s and infinity signs on it. I've tried that but am never sure I've done anything. I just don't have a "feel" for the whole process yet.

The one that has the pen included. That way you can learn to smooth your pens the way you want. I promise it is a lot easier than what a lot of people make it out to be but just a tad harder than what the pro's make it look like. In all honesty, this is a skill you need if you want to continue in fountain pens. It will make your experience much more enjoyable and satisfying and will also save you some time and money in the long run.
Oh I agree which is why I bought the buff sticks from Richard. Or do you use his mylar sheets? I just don't have enough experience or training to know how a nib is scratchy and what to do about that. Flying blind you might say. It's something that would be a good video on FP Geeks!

There is not much to taking apart to the pen. As you found on FPN, the sack does not come off. On mine, I pulled the nib straight out and used a syringe to "power wash" the inside of the section. It still did not come out completely clean.
Hmmm...never occurred to me that the nib could come out. Especially since it is sort of "back in there" under the hood. What did you use to get it out? Not fingers surely.

Anyway, I'll have another look at it. But I may just trade it off and have more time for other things...

[KrazyIvan]

Sorry you are not liking that pen. You may do well in getting a Richard Binder smoothing kit.
I pretty much do already and I have watched Stephen Brown with a buff stick do figure 8s and infinity signs on it. I've tried that but am never sure I've done anything. I just don't have a "feel" for the whole process yet.

The one that has the pen included. That way you can learn to smooth your pens the way you want. I promise it is a lot easier than what a lot of people make it out to be but just a tad harder than what the pro's make it look like. In all honesty, this is a skill you need if you want to continue in fountain pens. It will make your experience much more enjoyable and satisfying and will also save you some time and money in the long run.
Oh I agree which is why I bought the buff sticks from Richard. Or do you use his mylar sheets? I just don't have enough experience or training to know how a nib is scratchy and what to do about that. Flying blind you might say. It's something that would be a good video on FP Geeks!

There is not much to taking apart to the pen. As you found on FPN, the sack does not come off. On mine, I pulled the nib straight out and used a syringe to "power wash" the inside of the section. It still did not come out completely clean.
Hmmm...never occurred to me that the nib could come out. Especially since it is sort of "back in there" under the hood. What did you use to get it out? Not fingers surely.

Anyway, I'll have another look at it. But I may just trade it off and have more time for other things...

All I used was my fingers and I have fat fingers. I guess I am just used to working with small parts as I do a lot of electronics work.

I am also wondering if maybe your perception of what is scratchy for a fine/extra fine nib maybe a bit acute? What kind of pens did you use before starting in fountain pens?

[Saintpaulia]

Ivan, I don't understand. There is hardly anything to grab onto. The hood almost completely covers the nib and all of the feed. Are you saying that you grabbed the very end of the nib, the tip and pulled it out? Did the feed come out too? I am really confused. Thanks.

[KrazyIvan]

Ivan, I don't understand. There is hardly anything to grab onto. The hood almost completely covers the nib and all of the feed. Are you saying that you grabbed the very end of the nib, the tip and pulled it out? Did the feed come out too? I am really confused. Thanks.

Try this, I just did it. It is the feed that comes out, sorry. Pull the aluminum cover off the sack, see the breather tube? Try pushing it out of the pen. The black feed and breather tube should pop out. The nib stays put. Sorry, I described it wrong.


20121015_222639.jpg by IvanRomero, on Flickr

[Saintpaulia]

Ivan, thanks! Came right out. Don't worry about the mistake. Came out so amazingly easy that I was astonished. The sac won't come off but the feed-breather tube sure does! Maybe flusing this feed would help with the lack of flow I experienced and thought was scratchiness?

Actually the more I look at it, the thing that came out was not really the feed. The feed is built into the pen; that's what those fins are. This little black thing is simply a channel to let ink get from the fins to the nib?

[KrazyIvan]

This is slightly different than your traditional fountain pen. Based on identification of Parker 51 parts and translating it to this pen, the fins are the collector, the black part is the feed, and you know what the breather tube is.