Nib Vise?

[Massaya]

Not being too strong in my hands, although I can repair fiddly things easily, I have difficulty with one thing. Getting nibs and feed back into the section. I have used the grease, but I am still having difficulty. I read somewhere about a nib vise, used by professional repairers and wanted to get hold of one. Does anyone know about these and where I can get one, alternatively any tips on returning nibs and feeds after repairing.

[Flounder]

You use grease to put nibs and feeds into the section? Goodness...

I have read of nib vises too, though I don't have one. Advice-wise, if the friction fit is tight, I'll say match the nib and feed together, then insert both at the same time after heating the section. It's much harder trying to catch up the feed with the nib the last few mm. Secondly, reinsert the nib and feed in the same orientation they came, as they will go in easier if matching the section cavity's old set.

[Jeph]

Maybe you are thinking of a tool like the one at the bottom of this page
http://www.pelikan-guide.com/Tools.html

Besides causing problems with ink flow, grease can actually make it harder to insert the nib and feed. Maybe something super thin like vacumatic lubricant (that is also water soluble) could work though. I have had difficult nibs and feeds that I wet with water and they would not go in, but after drying them off I was able to get them installed.

Usually, if the nib and feed are going back into the same section, very close inspection can reveal a faint imprint of the nib on the bore of the section. If you can get the nib back in its original position it will usually go back in.

Not being too strong in the hands may actually be an advantage, as too much force can damage/break things.

If you are swapping out nibs and/or feeds things can get much more problematic. That can make heat necessary, but heat comes with its own problems.

[Farmboy]

You don't want anything on the feed and nib except ink.

You want to leave the nib and feed in the section unless all else fails. It is rare that you need to disassemble the unit for cleaning.

Do not resort to fileing, drilling and sanding.

[Ernst Bitterman]

I have occasionally resorted to the "Vacumatic Lubricant" meant for mounting new diaphragms; it's essentially glycerin, and is water soluble, so it doesn't clog up the channels.

Usually, if the nib and feed are going back into the same section, very close inspection can reveal a faint imprint of the nib on the bore of the section. If you can get the nib back in its original position it will usually go back in.

Yep yep yep.

When the section is particularly unwilling to re-admit the other parts (Vacumatics are particular brutes, I find), I'll add to the warming of the section with a refrigeration of the point and feed, just to enhance the differential expansion.

I also try to avoid knocking the point out unless it's clearly a necessary step. You may call this laziness or economy of action, as you prefer

[Farmboy]

I also try to avoid knocking the point out unless it's clearly a necessary step. You may call this laziness or economy of action, as you prefer

I'd just call it the smart approach.

[tandaina]

I have occasionally resorted to the "Vacumatic Lubricant" meant for mounting new diaphragms; it's essentially glycerin, and is water soluble, so it doesn't clog up the channels.

Usually, if the nib and feed are going back into the same section, very close inspection can reveal a faint imprint of the nib on the bore of the section. If you can get the nib back in its original position it will usually go back in.

Yep yep yep.

When the section is particularly unwilling to re-admit the other parts (Vacumatics are particular brutes, I find), I'll add to the warming of the section with a refrigeration of the point and feed, just to enhance the differential expansion.

I also try to avoid knocking the point out unless it's clearly a necessary step. You may call this laziness or economy of action, as you prefer

My preference as well. I only remove the nib/feed if absolutely necessary. And if it presents any difficulties it goes off to an expert. Just not worth it.

[SteveE]

Well, all this advice looks well focused on vintage pens, and for that it is probably right on point. I am no vintage expert, so I appreciate the input.

For moderns, on the other hand, sometimes force is warranted - especially when the risk of monetary loss is low. In those cases (e.g. pens that aren't worth much and are easily replaced if necessary), I have been known to use a "section pliers" as noted by Richard and other repair persons. This device is actually an automobile spark plug boot puller, purchased from the local NAPA store for under $10. It is, by all descriptions, a blunt instrument. It can easily destroy a feed or nib, it can allow even "strength-challenged" individuals to exert enough force to break things, but it can also allow fast, easy removal and replacement of nib/feed assemblies in the modern "friction-fit" sections. The jaws are padded with vinyl plastic so that they do not mark the nib or feed. Use these at your own risk. . .

[TimGirdler]

The first pair of pliers on this page: http://pentooling.com/pliers.html are a good tool. In fact, the $65 I spent for the tool is some of the best money I have ever spent.

Blessings,

Tim

[Chi Town]

Thanks Tim! I have a pair similar to these.....