Noodlers Ink curing time

[Titivillus]

I've started to ramp up my writing and found that the Red Black & Antietam inks by Noodlers seem to have a very long drying time. And by long not quite hours but more than 5-10 minutes. I hate to think that I need to buy some blotting paper but that's one possible solution or maybe a little clothesline by my desk to prep my pages for putting in envelopes.

K

[Wile E Coyote]

Do I detect an Anti-Noodler's post? You'd better be careful....

[Titivillus]

Not against the ink in general just curious is other people are finding that it takes longer to dry then other inks I've used. I remember Private Reserve Sherwood green was a bugger to dry but didn't remember if Noodlers was.

[mhosea]

Some Noodler's and PR (and even Diamine) inks take a long time to dry, especially if they dry out in the pen a little. This is especially true on non-absorbent paper like Tomoe River and Clairefontaine/Rhodia. Not sure why it is only sometimes extreme. I myself never noticed a huge difference on most paper, but Tomoe River paper has taught me a lot about relative drying times. I think dilution may help.

[Cookies]

This is a problem with many Noodler's inks since they are so saturated. Same problem with many Private Reserve inks. There's not much you can do except dilute with distilled water, switch to a more absorbent paper, use a drier pen, or blot.

[pico]

This is a problem with many Noodler's inks since they are so saturated. Same problem with many Private Reserve inks. There's not much you can do except dilute with distilled water, switch to a more absorbent paper, use a drier pen, or blot.

Diluting helps a lot, but if it's a "dry" flowing ink it will make it worse. But, I've found that most of the long-drying inks are not dry runners. 54th Mass. with 20% water added is now my favorite business-friendly inks. (never use tap water, minerals mess with the components of the ink)

[Cookies]

This is a problem with many Noodler's inks since they are so saturated. Same problem with many Private Reserve inks. There's not much you can do except dilute with distilled water, switch to a more absorbent paper, use a drier pen, or blot.

Diluting helps a lot, but if it's a "dry" flowing ink it will make it worse. But, I've found that most of the long-drying inks are not dry runners. 54th Mass. with 20% water added is now my favorite business-friendly inks. (never use tap water, minerals mess with the components of the ink)

I prefer more muted colors, so I don't have that much experience with super saturated inks. But the few I do use like Sargasso Sea, American Blue and Bilberry are very wet. So diluting is an option. I can't think of any dry but saturated inks off the top of my head.

[mrcharlie]

Not against the ink in general just curious is other people are finding that it takes longer to dry then other inks I've used. I remember Private Reserve Sherwood green was a bugger to dry but didn't remember if Noodlers was.

You can't generalize by brand like this in any valid way. You can't even generalize with the different "lines" of Noodler's; Blue Eel takes forever to dry for me but Black Eel is fine.

After a year of Ink Drop, I had tried a lot of different Noodler's inks. Some dry very slowly on almost any paper; others were decent on very absorbent paper but not other papers; and some inks dry in about the same time frame as most Waterman/Sheaffer type inks. The different dyes used to make the different colors and different properties (fade resistant, water resistant, etc) mean they aren't all going to behave the same.

The same is true with PR, Diamine, O.S., Akkerman, De Atramentis, etc. Any manufacturer with more than a handful of inks is unlikely to have them all with the same drying speed, feathering and bleed characteristics, water resistance, fade resistance, or any other particular property you care about.

FWIW, I've never had great results trying to dilute ink to make it more completely absorb, or do so more quickly. I've had better luck blotting, or only using such inks on more absorbent paper.