Parker 51 vac. Restore

**kirchh** · October 13th, 2014, 01:54 PM

I don't see the following:

The instructions with both brass filler units did say to attach the sac to the filler unit with a bit of "cement."

There is only a note regarding securing a diaphragm if the pellet pocket is loose (presumably because of damage sustained while removing a previous pellet).

--Daniel

**pajaro** · October 13th, 2014, 04:17 PM

It said, "If the diaphragm is loose in the pellet holder add one tiny drop of instant glue."

Pellet pocket loose? It didn't say that. Maybe the instruction was too vague. At any rate, it all came attached and fitted in and worked.

**GING GING** · October 13th, 2014, 09:19 PM

This is the end result of my Resto attempt. This is a crack you're looking at. Can this be repaired or do I have to buy another barrel?

**pajaro** · October 14th, 2014, 05:42 AM

It it's cracked through and leaks, you can solvent weld it or buy another barrel. Solvent welding with something like methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is best left to someone who is experienced with it. It's toxic. On parker51.com I think you can buy a new barrel in that color.

**kirchh** · October 14th, 2014, 08:13 AM

Originally Posted by pajaro

It said, "If the diaphragm is loose in the pellet holder add one tiny drop of instant glue."

Pellet pocket loose? It didn't say that. Maybe the instruction was too vague. At any rate, it all came attached and fitted in and worked.

Right -- it said if the pellet pocket was loose (that is, not holding the pellet securely, as a loose glove will fall off your hand), the diaphragm could be secured there with "instant glue." The point is that the instructions did not say that as a normal step in the filler installation procedure, the diaphragm should be cemented to the filler, as you'd stated. In general, no adhesive is involved in installing a Vac diaphragm.

--Daniel

**kirchh** · October 14th, 2014, 08:14 AM

Originally Posted by pajaro

It it's cracked through and leaks, you can solvent weld it or buy another barrel. Solvent welding with something like methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is best left to someone who is experienced with it. It's toxic. On parker51.com I think you can buy a new barrel in that color.

MEK would not be the solvent of choice for this repair, but I second the recommendation for professional assistance or a barrel replacement.

--Daniel

**GING GING** · October 14th, 2014, 01:50 PM

Thanx every body. Whether it's in a week or 6 months. I'll keep you updated on what I do

**pajaro** · October 14th, 2014, 09:26 PM

Originally Posted by kirchh

Originally Posted by pajaro

It it's cracked through and leaks, you can solvent weld it or buy another barrel. Solvent welding with something like methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is best left to someone who is experienced with it. It's toxic. On parker51.com I think you can buy a new barrel in that color.

MEK would not be the solvent of choice for this repair, but I second the recommendation for professional assistance or a barrel replacement.

--Daniel

I don't care what the solvent of choice is, just an example to illustrate that it is easier and cheaper to buy a new old barrel than to fix this. So, go on and pick that apart, if you will, but there's little useful purpose in it.

**pajaro** · October 14th, 2014, 09:32 PM

Originally Posted by kirchh

Originally Posted by pajaro

It said, "If the diaphragm is loose in the pellet holder add one tiny drop of instant glue."

Pellet pocket loose? It didn't say that. Maybe the instruction was too vague. At any rate, it all came attached and fitted in and worked.

Right -- it said if the pellet pocket was loose (that is, not holding the pellet securely, as a loose glove will fall off your hand), the diaphragm could be secured there with "instant glue." The point is that the instructions did not say that as a normal step in the filler installation procedure, the diaphragm should be cemented to the filler, as you'd stated. In general, no adhesive is involved in installing a Vac diaphragm.

--Daniel

Keep picking it apart, but it was vague to me and I used nothing anyway.

Rather than a continuing pick apart, why not just clarify the procedure?

I am quite sure I will not do another of these, so I care nothing about it. By the time all the pick-aparts are done the result will be confusing.

**Laura N** · October 14th, 2014, 10:06 PM

Good idea, Pajaro. Maybe this would be a good place to link to some general guidance for those considering this repair in the future. I think these online sources are good places to start: Parker51.com provides some brief instructions here, and Richard Binder has more detailed ones here for all Parker vacumatics.

I have to admit that I don't find this repair very easy. Maybe it's just me. But I think many people would find it easier, better and even cheaper to send these pens off to a professional. I've used Danny Fudge, for just one name, and I think he might handle vacs.

**mhosea** · October 15th, 2014, 04:45 AM

Originally Posted by pajaro

Originally Posted by kirchh

Originally Posted by pajaro

It it's cracked through and leaks, you can solvent weld it or buy another barrel. Solvent welding with something like methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is best left to someone who is experienced with it. It's toxic. On parker51.com I think you can buy a new barrel in that color.

MEK would not be the solvent of choice for this repair, but I second the recommendation for professional assistance or a barrel replacement.

--Daniel

I don't care what the solvent of choice is, just an example to illustrate that it is easier and cheaper to buy a new old barrel than to fix this. So, go on and pick that apart, if you will, but there's little useful purpose in it.

Daniel is an expert, and his post was useful.