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Thread: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    I have a new Parker 45 18ct gold nib that doesn't want to write. I have examined the feed under a loupe and it looks exactly like my other 45 feeds, so I don't think that's the problem. In fact it can't be because I have tried other nibs on that feed with no problem.

    The nib, however, looks a bit different to my other 45 nibs. The slits in the nibs that I regularly use, start a short distance away from the hole. The slit in this one starts at the hole and the gap narrows considerably by the time it gets to the iridium on the tine tips.

    I have only one brass shim that measures less than 2cm square. I don't have a clue what grade or thickness it is. I have run it along the nib slit and out through the tines several times. The nib still doesn't seem to want to write when it's back on it's feed. I think the feed is touching the nib properly, so it must be the nib.

    I have had a look around on Youtube and making nibs write.

    Do I need to actually try to fold this brass shim in half while it's between the tines, and ever so carefully try to slightly part the tines at their tips? Will the shim break or will the tines cut through it? Will I still be able to use it on other pens in the future as it's my only one?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

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    Useless mhosea's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    I'm not sure the problem is the nib yet. If you have other 45's, consider an experiment where you swap nibs, feeds, and sections.
    --
    Mike

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    Senior Member Cob's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    If it does not write at all, further investigation is probably necessary. I cannot remember the layout of the 45, but I recall a Parker 51 that filled perfectly but refused to write. I remember that there is something in Parkers "accumulator" or some such name. Anyway I soaked the end for five minutes in a 50/50 ammonia/water solution and after that the pen wrote perfectly!

    A more moderate technique which does work sometimes is to flush the pen a few times with cold water with a little washing-up liquid added. This has cured a couple of mine that refused to start or insisted on skipping.

    Cob

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Otherwise try to bring it to a Geek's monthly meeting for Annie to have a look at it.

    Also I bought my set of brass shims from Amazon.co.uk. I can always bring it to the next meeting if you like.

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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    I have already tried the feed with other nibs, and have had no problems with ink flow to the page.

    I have tried this nib with other feeds, and ink flow to the page is either terribly dry or non-existent. I'm fairly sure it's the nib.

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    Senior Member Jeph's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    I have had a couple of problematic Parker 45 nibs. I have never seen an 18K one though. Nice.
    Goulet has a nice explanation and video here Goulet Nib Floss

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    FPG Donor ♕ Chrissy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    I could be wrong. It's probably 14ct thinking about it.

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    Useless mhosea's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    If you think the tines are pressed too closely together at the tip, you can widen them slightly with anything softer than the metal that itself is about the right thickness. I've used drinking straws for this while at work (push the tines up a little as if safely flexing the nib to insert). Another way of separating them is to bend both upwards slightly, though obviously this can sometimes cause new problems in the fit to the feed. Another thing that sometimes happens is what Richard Binder calls the inverted grand canyon. This is where the gap is wider facing the paper than it is facing the sky on the other side of the tip. In order for the nib to write, the ink has to touch the paper to initiate capillary flow, but with the inverted grand canyon (and with Baby's Bottom as well), the ink recedes from the lower edges of the tipping and doesn't touch the paper. Unfortunately, fixing that usually requires some work with pliers.
    Last edited by mhosea; December 17th, 2014 at 12:09 PM.
    --
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    FPG Donor ♕ alc3261's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Is your brass shim really thin like tinfoil or thick so you can hardly bend it?
    You need 3 sizes really - the just a bit thicker than tinfoil and upwards.
    I have large sheets of all 3 sizes and could send you some pieces?

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Quote Originally Posted by alc3261 View Post
    Is your brass shim really thin like tinfoil or thick so you can hardly bend it?
    You need 3 sizes really - the just a bit thicker than tinfoil and upwards.
    I have large sheets of all 3 sizes and could send you some pieces?
    I would guess that it's in-between the two really. It's the tiny square that comes in the kit that Richard Binder sells or sold on his web-site. So I have never bought a piece on it's own. In order to get it between the tines, I have had to put pressure on the back of the nib to move the tines far enough apart, so that I can get it in, but I can easily bend the shim, so that it meets in the middle, without it breaking. What worries me is that if I use some pressure whether the tines might tear it when I pull slightly if you see what I mean.

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Lets try a different approach that doesn't involve shoving things in the nib slit. If the nib slit is to tight, open it by lifting the wings of the nib up and out while putting downward pressure on the nib at the breather hole.

    Flossing a nib should be just like flossing your teeth. You are trying to remove debris not create a spitting gap.

    Farmboy

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    Senior Member gweddig's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    What Farmboy said. If you want, PM me and I'll send you some assorted brass. Though I have had little luck using it for nib adjustments, mainly cleaning.

    Good luck!

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    Senior Member Laura N's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    Lets try a different approach that doesn't involve shoving things in the nib slit. If the nib slit is to tight, open it by lifting the wings of the nib up and out while putting downward pressure on the nib at the breather hole.

    Flossing a nib should be just like flossing your teeth. You are trying to remove debris not create a spitting gap.

    Farmboy
    Thank you.

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    If there is an auto parts store near you, pick up a spark plug gapping tool.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418940126.942493.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1418940177.994171.jpg

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    Senior Member Wile E Coyote's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Quote Originally Posted by GING GING View Post
    If there is an auto parts store near you, pick up a spark plug gapping tool.
    It's not recommended to use the steel feeler gauges for nib flossing. Steel is much harder than gold and will scratch the gap between the tines. Either use brass feeler gauges or brass shim material.

    As for spark plugs, you should use round gauges made from steel. You can't ensure a proper gap with the flat gauges and the flats of the electrodes.

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wile E Coyote View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GING GING View Post
    If there is an auto parts store near you, pick up a spark plug gapping tool.
    It's not recommended to use the steel feeler gauges for nib flossing. Steel is much harder than gold and will scratch the gap between the tines. Either use brass feeler gauges or brass shim material.

    As for spark plugs, you should use round gauges made from steel. You can't ensure a proper gap with the flat gauges and the flats of the electrodes.
    Wile E puppy. Trying to goad me, huh? I'm referring to the second part of your response. No one cares about its automotive application so why try to correct me on it? I just wonder why you and your little buddies feel like you have to compete with me

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    Senior Member Wile E Coyote's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Quote Originally Posted by GING GING View Post
    Wile E puppy. Trying to goad me, huh? I'm referring to the second part of your response. No one cares about its automotive application so why try to correct me on it? I just wonder why you and your little buddies feel like you have to compete with me
    Not a puppy, full grown.

    Sorry if you were offended, I was simply attempting to help. You really need to get some thicker skin.

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Thank you

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    Default Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    Test
    Last edited by GING GING; January 5th, 2015 at 10:56 AM.

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    Default Re: Help please: Making nibs write; Brass shims.

    One of the most difficult nib repairs is removing a deep groove on the inner face of the tines cause by aggressive ramming of an object between them. Smoothing the inner face of the tines is not the real issue, instead it is coaxing the nib back to the proper tapered gap after removing the material necessary to clean up the mess. I've seen gouges so deep the only solution would have been to weld it the slit shut and recut it. If you really want to open up a nib slit try your finger nail or something very soft or just flatten the nib and it will open up.

    The feeler gauge set shown is a nice thing to have. I would have thought they were for setting the gap on the points and not spark plugs but then unless your cars are as old as mine, you don't have points to set and if your tractor is like mine, it doesn't have spark plugs.

    Back to nibs...I have some very fat Vacumatic nibs just back from the shop to go shape.

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