Not sure what's the problem and not sure how to load. This pencil came with spare lead under the eraser, but cannot load top to bottom and does not load from bottom. This is a twist type. Any comments welcome and appreciated.
Not sure what's the problem and not sure how to load. This pencil came with spare lead under the eraser, but cannot load top to bottom and does not load from bottom. This is a twist type. Any comments welcome and appreciated.
Deb may possibly be able to assist with this. I know she repairs pencils. Hopefully she will see this thread.
Regards, Chrissy | My Review Blog: inkyfountainpens
Chuck Naill (March 14th, 2020)
Sorry, I can repair some pencils but I'm no expert and I've never worked on Parker pencils. Jon Veley's the man you want.
Chuck Naill (March 14th, 2020)
This pencil loads by twisting the cap clockwise until the end (have read that they break easily, so caution is suggested)
Then turn the cap a turn or two counter clockwise
Insert a lead from the tip
Continue twisting the cap counter clockwise until the lead is fully retracted into the pencil
Hope this helps
I have only limited experience but I have een told that most problems are caused by pieces of broken lead inside the mechanism or even just lead dust. Before the pencil goes for parts I would try blowing through the works as best you can, possibly using compressed air and/or some thin wire
BTW, I have been caught out with leads supplied with old pencils that are the wrong size, a .7 lead will never been taken up by a pencil requiring .9mm.
That pencil should be very close in construction and function to the other you posted about. Does the propel/repel mechanism move at all, or is it jammed hard? If it feels, or sounds like metal on metal when you try to turn the mechanism, it may need actual repair, if not the suggestion that it's jammed by stray bits of lead is probably spot-on.
If you remove all the spare leads and then tap the mechanism tail down on a desk or pad of paper, you may be able to shake any small pieces of lead loose from the helicoid and get it working again. For the most part these mechanisms aren't meant to be serviced, so taking them apart and especially reassembling is usually a PITA.
I've also seen mechanisms with jammed or broken ejector rods, probably due to using poorly sized leads, it can be fixed in some cases... Removing jams can be done with correctly sized drill bits, or sometimes a pin if they're soft enough. David Nishimura of Vintage Pens sells the drill bits.
David-
So many restoration projects...
I ran a mandolin and guitar strings bottom to top and no lead or dust, but was not able to push the stings through to where the eraser would set. Interesting, there is a small brass cap that would fit over the top of the brass section.
Unlike the old '40's pencil, the chrome and brass parts are held together. Everything is un good shape. Nice pen otherwise. The own must have damaged the part that holds the lead.
My oldest daughter prefers pencils and I've found and giver her a blue Esterbrook. She likes blue so this was going to her. I'm sure I will find her one soon. Thank you as always.
The string can't pass all the way through, the propelling mechanism blocks it.
If you're saying that the threaded brass part that the cone/tip screws to isn't connected to the long chrome plated tube that encloses the mechanism, then that means your old pencil is broken... I've seen at least two Parker pencils have this issue, the open end of the chromed tube (also brass in most cases) that joins the threaded brass colored part cracks and loses its crimped connection to that part. I fixed mine by using low temperature electronics solder to re-connect them.
David-
So many restoration projects...
If you can separate the chromed outer sleeve from the brass colored and threaded end of your older Parker pencil, it's broken. The newer pencil is just a revised version, at least as far as the basic pattern and operational principal, it also probably has a revised design to prevent the sleeve from losing its crimped on contact with the operating mechanism.
I have just a few Parker pencils in my collection, for exactly that reason... Sheaffer, Eversharp and Autopoint pencils are all very rugged and seem to stand the test of time well, Waterman and Parker not so much.
David-
So many restoration projects...
Hi David,
I'm pleased to see that there's someone here with a knowledge of pencils and their repair. I love mechanical pencils but I struggle with their repair. Of course most of my pencils are British but I expect the mechanisms will be similar.
stupid question
Is repairing such things really worth it ?
I am Autistic, Aspergers, so I apologize if I occasionally post without thinking (as in speak without .....) no rudeness is ever intended Thanks
I think so. In working condition (as most of them are) they are as useful as the day they were made. Pencils are not as popular as pens but I believe they are equally admirable writing instruments with a history and development of their own. When I can, I restore Mabie Todd Fyne Poynt pencils to sell as part of a set with their matching fountain pens. There are mechanical pencil collectors.
Mechanical pencils are lovely things. Arguably better than 'real' pencils as they never need sharpening.
Hi Deb and Chuck,
I agree that pencils definitely get less love than they deserve, the better ones are amazing workhorses that are utilitarian, but come in all the same finishes that the pens did, so if you want some RHR, RMHR, or desireable celluloid patterns, the pencils are much more attainable than the pens, at least price wise.
Chuck, the older pencil can probably be soldered, or epoxied so that there isn't a risk of pulling the mechanism apart when you remove the "cap" to gain eraser and lead storage access. Epoxy will be easier, but not as strong. As far as the later pencil (match for a 21 super or 51 special?) I'd have no use for it, but it may still be salvageable.
I have actually re-built the propelling and ejection carriers in a couple pencils, but it's very exacting work and my repairs, made with high strength mechanical solder aren't as strong as the original brass parts were before they wore out. I would never claim to be an expert, or to have skills worth selling as a service!
jrthemoon,
If you're mechanically inclined and have a good selection of micro-tools or jewelers' tools, then it can be fun to work on older pencils, just don't jump in on a rare or valuable one... as far as repair by a professional, it may be cheaper to hunt for parts pencils than to repair a broken one
David-
So many restoration projects...
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